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Yeah, never found a workable solution to the rearward bush, other than replace with another rubber one.

Poly’d fronts are fine

I thought that wishbones that had the harder polly bushes fitted had a tendency to crack 

Only if you fit them to the back,

I thought that wishbones that had the harder polly bushes fitted had a tendency to crack 

Cam sprockets are unbolted and have the chain on, tension is removed from the tensioner and the sprockets sit in a casting on the timing cover, head slides out and up (having disconnected the inlet, exhaust, water outlet, a few water pumps bolts, and some timing cover bolts.

On re-fit, crank t 90degrees before TDC (all pistons to the half way), head on, set the cams and lock them, bring the pistons to TDC and and lock the crank. Cam sprockets bolted on, tensioner released and tighten the bolts. 

Thanks for the explanation! 

Put a Kia Forte through its paces across the Los Angeles National Forest.

For a wwd shitbox with a CVT gearbox, it was actually quite fun.

I put a non descript euro shitbox through its paces this morning. Fun isn’t the word that sprang to mind. Shite was a word 

I’ve only ever had one genuine ballpoint fail. And I ran all mine on genuine wishbones, which just kept getting refurbed apart from the first time when I bought a pair (back when they were dirt cheap).

That’s where I get that idea from.

Virtually all of the shagged ball joints I’ve seen have been on pattern arms. Most of them the shit provided (when they can be arsed to post) by ATP

I reckon Robsey's V8 "Omega 2.5 estate" was pretty much perfect. Before he gave the game away by poking a blower through the bonnet!

Was this the one with Monaro running gear?

That points towards an issue either with the cluster or the connection from the engine ECU.

The dash is the one major difference between the Catera and Omega, and without seeing behind the cluster there may be additional wiring/plugs for the extra displays/warnings.

I suspect that the alternator only feeds the charge light (and battery voltage gauge), whereas the rpm signal comes from the engine ECU information (crank and/or cam sensor).

If the pedal trick works*, any codes may highlight a discrepancy.

* It should as the car is DBW.

The speedometer issue is almost guaranteed to be unrelated.

But engine right on high rpm. Car starts to stall when accelerating. Maybe I should start with (crank and/or cam sensor)?
Previous owner said that they changed crank sensor from omega.

Fuel filter ok?

if it miss fires on acceleration that points to ignition voltage and coil packs

That points towards an issue either with the cluster or the connection from the engine ECU.

The dash is the one major difference between the Catera and Omega, and without seeing behind the cluster there may be additional wiring/plugs for the extra displays/warnings.

I suspect that the alternator only feeds the charge light (and battery voltage gauge), whereas the rpm signal comes from the engine ECU information (crank and/or cam sensor).

If the pedal trick works*, any codes may highlight a discrepancy.

* It should as the car is DBW.

The speedometer issue is almost guaranteed to be unrelated.

But engine right on high rpm. Car starts to stall when accelerating. Maybe I should start with (crank and/or cam sensor)?
Previous owner said that they changed crank sensor from omega.

Yes sir they sent me a photo of the crack, it is between the valve and headbolt .
so it is compression only.