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[Webby the Bear]

Assuming I can get it in I’ll just air hammer it off. Or if it really puts up a fight I’ll cut it off.

[Nick W]

Not just a random clouting with two hammers. There's a knack to it and a forum guide is available here. The trick is to have some upwards pressure on it before you hit it with the hammer(s). Hence the cold chisel in the guide.

The two hammer method is a well defined Omega suspension process.

No, it's a standard procedure for any taper joint. They are best sprung apart with a sharp blow on the socket, rather than forced apart with wedges. With some practice and a large enough hammer, you probably won't need the second hammer.

[Webby the Bear]

Yeah was a bit confused as to why two hammers needed?

Hit what it goes through. 👍

[Nick W]

Yeah was a bit confused as to why two hammers needed?

The second hammer held against the other side of the socket amplifies the blow. If you can get a good swing with a big hammer, as when splitting track rods it's not worth worrying about. When doing idler arms with the car on axle stands, it's probably worth considering.


One thing that's worth mentioning: be very careful if doing this on aluminium housings!!!!!

[Enceladus]

Hold the face of one hammer against the joint and then hit the joint with the other hammer, to reflect the shock so to speak. Simultaneously press down on the end of your chisel so that upward pressure (at the other end) is applied to the bottom of the socket on the drop-link steering idler. Add up the number of hands required and then it will be obvious why it's a pain in the rear.

If your Omega has an original GM drop-link idler then I suggest you make triple sure that it really is the source of your problems. OEM spec ones are no longer made and are scarcer than hen's teeth. The next best was at one time deemed to be a Lemförder. It seems to me that nowadays Lemförder no longer manufacture the links and just import and re-brand the same Chinese made rubbish everybody else does.

[Webby the Bear]

Hmmm. More hands. Definitely on my Christmas list.

Ok thanks for info

[Bigron]

Worth mentioning that the larger, heavier hammer should be behind the joint, not the one that you hit with; it helps to keep the joint still and makes best use of your force.
I like the chisel tip!

Ron.

[aaronjb]

Hmmm. More hands. Definitely on my Christmas list.

 

[TheBoy]

is it Lemforder?

No, their idlers are shite now as well. Hence why I said GM only (or a poly one)

[VXL V6]

Believe Serek has a contact in Poland who will supply a poly version on exchange plus a few £

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks guys. How much r we talking for genuine?

[Doctor Gollum]

£60-100?

[TheBoy]

£60-100?

I think the last one I bought was about £60ish, but that was 5 or 6 years ago.

[Doctor Gollum]

A quick rummage in the US suggests $72+ for pattern... so circa £60 would be reasonable 

I didn't search by part number though and it might be possible that a broader choice of Carlton ones exist 

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks for info guys 👍👍👍👍