7456
Omega General Help / Re: New bulbs in the instrument panel.
« on: 28 August 2011, 03:34:45 »
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7457
Omega General Help / Re: Still running like a bag of spanners !!!
« on: 25 August 2011, 02:02:38 »
If only her miggy was running on all cylinders like her avatar 
7458
Omega General Help / Re: bores full of water
« on: 21 August 2011, 01:26:21 »
Yes there a water feed to the throttle body, so it would be worth checking this for a water leak. It is only a small bore pipe so I can't see how it would have the capacity to fill all three bores, unless it is leaking under pressure, even then I would have thought the pressure would have dropped fairly quickly. I can't see how large amounts of water would enter after the pressure is released as the pipes are at the top of the engine, level with the header tank, so there would be no gravity feed.
I guessing here, that the water heating is for the same reason as many motorbikes, to stop icing of the throttle butterfly valves in cold weather?
This is a thought from when I stripped down my engine to do the head gaskets. Is is plain water or water / antifreeze mix in the bores? Are you stripping the engine down outside or under cover as we had very heavy rain on Thursday. I found out the hard way when the scuttle and the plugs are removed, rain water will enter through the plug holes into the cylinders and likewise when the heads are off, which is why I had to carefully cover the engine when I wasn't working on it with polythene to stop this.
It is of concern that you said the engine would not turnover due to water in the cylinders as a hydraulic lock like this normally bend conrods. 
I guessing here, that the water heating is for the same reason as many motorbikes, to stop icing of the throttle butterfly valves in cold weather?
This is a thought from when I stripped down my engine to do the head gaskets. Is is plain water or water / antifreeze mix in the bores? Are you stripping the engine down outside or under cover as we had very heavy rain on Thursday. I found out the hard way when the scuttle and the plugs are removed, rain water will enter through the plug holes into the cylinders and likewise when the heads are off, which is why I had to carefully cover the engine when I wasn't working on it with polythene to stop this.
It is of concern that you said the engine would not turnover due to water in the cylinders as a hydraulic lock like this normally bend conrods.
7459
Omega General Help / Re: water in plenum
« on: 14 August 2011, 00:25:01 »
When my head gasket went, I had much water in two cylinders and also considerable stream from the exhaust. I would have suggested doing a compression test, but you need a warm engine to do this and you are already stripping the engine. I found the compression high on the cylinders that were leaking water rather than low as expected, this I think was due to the amount of water being drawn into the cylinder which was raising the compression. I had no oil in the water or excessive mayo in the oil, but I could smell exhaust fumes in the coolant system with the header cap off and revving the engine. I also did a coolant compression test, which confirmed a leak.
on the cylinders that were leaking water rather than low as expected, this I think was due to the amount of water being drawn into the cylinder which was raising the compression. I had no oil in the water or excessive mayo in the oil, but I could smell exhaust fumes in the coolant system with the header cap off and revving the engine. I also did a coolant compression test, which confirmed a leak.
7460
Omega General Help / Re: Poor running V6
« on: 13 August 2011, 03:23:34 »
With gearbox limp mode activated and rough running engine. It maybe the crankshaft sensor as I had these symptoms with my crankshaft sensor on the way out, which was confirmed when the engine cutout as I was driving along 
and would not restart until cold.
Now I have replaced the sensor the engine is running much more smoothly with no gearbox errors.
and would not restart until cold.Now I have replaced the sensor the engine is running much more smoothly with no gearbox errors.
7461
Omega General Help / Re: Whistling car!
« on: 28 July 2011, 20:47:37 »
Have you changed the water pump?
7462
Omega General Help / Re: head gasket
« on: 31 July 2011, 00:02:05 »
IMHO if you are stripping the engine this far it is worth doing both.
When I had a blown head gasket on the passenger side, I changed both and found the drivers side also in quite poor condition.
When I had a blown head gasket on the passenger side, I changed both and found the drivers side also in quite poor condition.
7463
Omega General Help / Re: Urgent Help. My V6 Sounds like a Diesel!
« on: 23 July 2011, 15:05:51 »
Sound like I did well getting a new QH waterpump off fleabay for £20 inc p&p, where somebody they bought it and never got round to fitting it, before they sold the car. 
7464
Omega General Help / Re: Can anyone help me with some tracking info please?
« on: 28 July 2011, 00:57:47 »
You can find your local "Wheels in Motion" tyre fitting and geometry centre here
http://www.blackboots.co.uk/tyre-fitting-centres.php
http://www.blackboots.co.uk/tyre-fitting-centres.php
7465
Omega General Help / Re: Head Gasket failure 2.5 V6
« on: 23 July 2011, 00:23:45 »
Like you, on mine I took the nearside head off first as it is the slightly easier head to get off. It was the gasket on this side that had gone.
As I had bought a full gasket set with both head gaskets and head bolts, I decided to remove the offside head as well and was glad I did.
Although, the gasket hadn't gone it was in poor condition and I don't think it would have lasted much longer, so for the extra work involved, it was definitely worth it, rather than having to strip the engine down again in the future.
I also redid the oil cooler gasket, while it was apart as there was some blue antifreeze colour on the nearside head, replaced the thermostat, water pump, auxiliary belt and a new cambelt kit.
When I removed the oil cooler I could see the gasket had been leaking, I also had an overheating problem in traffic, which is why I replaced the thermostat, and although the water pump had only done 65k, there was a whistling sound when I revved the engine, the new water pump and auxiliary belt has cured this.
I hope this is of help
As I had bought a full gasket set with both head gaskets and head bolts, I decided to remove the offside head as well and was glad I did.
Although, the gasket hadn't gone it was in poor condition and I don't think it would have lasted much longer, so for the extra work involved, it was definitely worth it, rather than having to strip the engine down again in the future.
I also redid the oil cooler gasket, while it was apart as there was some blue antifreeze colour on the nearside head, replaced the thermostat, water pump, auxiliary belt and a new cambelt kit.
When I removed the oil cooler I could see the gasket had been leaking, I also had an overheating problem in traffic, which is why I replaced the thermostat, and although the water pump had only done 65k, there was a whistling sound when I revved the engine, the new water pump and auxiliary belt has cured this.
I hope this is of help
7466
Omega General Help / Re: Rear shocks
« on: 16 July 2011, 21:57:16 »
You need to lift up the boot carpet and spare wheel flap. I only removed the nearside and pivoted it out of the way to save disturbing the CD multi-changer. This gives just enough access to the O/S shock absorber mounting point. The carpet is held down by the plastic caps with a screwdriver slot in them and the carpet slides off the sprung loaded cover at the back of the seat.
You well see two small black panels held by 4 self tapping screws. The dampers are underneath these.
I found the job fairly straight forward, using the oof guide. Only comment is you need 21mm socket, not 22mm.
The top nuts came undone quite easily and likewise, the nuts at the bottom, but I did need my long torque wrench for these as they were tight. I found removing the dampers at the bottom very difficult, after putting penetrating oil on the suspension joint and and leaving it for 30mins, I ended up using a combination of my wife levering it with wrecking bar while I hit the side of a drift in the shock absorber's bolt hole worked. 
I found the removable washer and spacer at the top of the shock absorber were not included with my Vx replacements, so I had to remove them from the old ones. This was very difficult as they were solidly rusted to the old shock absorber top. I found a combination of penetrating oil, swearing placing two large spanners underneath the washer while clamping the shock absorber in the jaws of my B&D workmate, and then hitting the top with my 4lb gentle persuader (club hammer) worked, but if these are available as a separate item I would suggest getting them as it will save a lot of time.
I hope this is of help.
I did take some pictures, of the estate floor, which I can email to anybody if they want to add them to the oof guide.
You well see two small black panels held by 4 self tapping screws. The dampers are underneath these.
I found the job fairly straight forward, using the oof guide. Only comment is you need 21mm socket, not 22mm.
The top nuts came undone quite easily and likewise, the nuts at the bottom, but I did need my long torque wrench for these as they were tight. I found removing the dampers at the bottom very difficult, after putting penetrating oil on the suspension joint and and leaving it for 30mins, I ended up using a combination of my wife levering it with wrecking bar
while I hit the side of a drift in the shock absorber's bolt hole worked. I found the removable washer and spacer at the top of the shock absorber were not included with my Vx replacements, so I had to remove them from the old ones. This was very difficult as they were solidly rusted to the old shock absorber top. I found a combination of penetrating oil, swearing
placing two large spanners underneath the washer while clamping the shock absorber in the jaws of my B&D workmate, and then hitting the top with my 4lb gentle persuader (club hammer) worked, but if these are available as a separate item I would suggest getting them as it will save a lot of time.I hope this is of help.
I did take some pictures, of the estate floor, which I can email to anybody if they want to add them to the oof guide.
7467
Omega General Help / Re: Misfire - Fault code 19
« on: 14 July 2011, 00:19:10 »
Could it be MAF?
7468
Omega General Help / Re: hot weather hot starting problem..
« on: 07 July 2011, 01:38:31 »
I had a similar promblem years ago on a 960 Volvo, which was caused by a leaking non-return valve, which kept the fuel injection system pressurised when the engine was not running. The fuel pressure would drop and hence, I had to crank a hot engine over for about 30 seconds before it would restart and it would cough and splutter into life. It seemed to affect cold engine starting much less so, I never understood why as I would expect the fuel pressure to drop the same and the engine needing to be cranked over to get the fuel pressure up in both cases unless it was due to the ECU automatically making the cold engine's mixture richer or alternatively when the engine was hot the fuel may have been vapourising in the pipe, so it took time to clear, so the injectors were getting neat fuel?
I don't know the Omega fuel injection system, so this maybe a red-herring, but I hope it is of help?
I don't know the Omega fuel injection system, so this maybe a red-herring, but I hope it is of help?
7469
Omega General Help / Re: Engine cut out while driving and would not restart
« on: 05 July 2011, 14:52:23 »
No, I was doing 30mph going up a hill over a railway bridge, I manage to coast to the top, roll down the other side and stop / park in a side road, which was lucky as my 11 month daughter and wife were in the car and I'm sure my wife would not have wanted to help me push the car in her high heels
7470
Omega General Help / Engine cut out while driving and would not restart
« on: 05 July 2011, 14:36:12 »
I was driving along when the engine suddenly died and the car would not restart. I walked home and got a friend to pick it up about 3 hours later with his recovery vehicle. Car started when he went to load on lorry and now starts ok on my drive. No EML light.
Is it likely to be crankshaft sensor? The only other clue is about 200 miles ago, I got a gearbox fault warning when I started the car and the gearbox went into limp (winter) mode.
How much are the crankshaft sensors, I have a trade card?
If it is not the crankshaft sensor, any other ideas on what it might be?
Is it likely to be crankshaft sensor? The only other clue is about 200 miles ago, I got a gearbox fault warning when I started the car and the gearbox went into limp (winter) mode.
How much are the crankshaft sensors, I have a trade card?
If it is not the crankshaft sensor, any other ideas on what it might be?