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Topics - Albatross

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16
Omega General Help / rear ashtray?
« on: 26 October 2008, 10:47:46 »
I sat in the back of my own car the other day after having a drink and was driven home. The girls sat in the front.

I'd never been there before and was quite impressed, but I thought to myself that I would have to get another cigar lighter for the rear socket rather than the flip off cover with "Max 12V" written on it. Then it occured to me that there doesn't appear to be an ashtray in the back.

Am I missing something?

17
Omega General Help / Window problems
« on: 12 October 2008, 17:41:03 »
This was posted in ICE, but I reckon not so many people read that bit so...

My driver's door window is stuck in the closed position.

Checked switches and PCB: All looks good. I can still get the same behaviour closing he switches by closing the circuits on the board.

The window motor clicks as though it is trying, but not doing anything. This is both up and down, so there is definitely power getting as far as the motor.

Here's the odd thing I've just spotted...

If you put the key into the ignition far enough for that continuous warning high pitched beep then this happens.

A working window when trying to be closed when already closed causes a slight drop in note. A closed window being opened no change in note. An open window being closed, no change in note. An open window trying to be "forced" further open by the switch causes drop in note.

All of this leads me to reason that a motor under strain causes a drop in note as it drains power.

The window in question that is stuck in the closed position. Pull the switch up (facelift) to close further and you get a drop in note which makes me think that the motor is working in that direction against the mechanical resistance of the top of the door.

Push the switch down to open the window and no change in note leading me to believe that the motor is not even trying (depsite the click from the motor which makes me think it is engaging.)

I have rummaged around inside the door for anything mechanical and there is nothing that I can feel that would be getting in the way of the mechanism from taking the window down.

All of this appears that:

The motor can go in the direction to take the window up (it drops the note when forced), but can't go in the direction to open the window (no drop in note).

Does anyone understand electric motor enough to understand why the above might be the case and offer a diganosis?

I have cleaned all contact at all plugs between the motor and the switches to be sure with Maplin contact cleaner.

18
Omega General Help / LSD questions
« on: 08 October 2008, 17:00:49 »
Quote
Quote
Quote
The only sure way of telling is to remove the back plate off of the diff. If you cant see the pinion gears then its a slipper ;)

Is a "slipper" an LSD or a non-LSD? What do the pinions look like?

It's the sun gears and planetary gears that drive the two output shafts. Normally visible in a frame that is attached to the large crown wheel, on an LSD there is just a metal cylinder here with the gubbins in.

Turning the output shafts isn't a reliable method on this type of diff. It works nicely on viscous LSDs as fitted to the RWD Fords.

A "slipper" as another term for a LSD.

Next questions:

Are all the Ratio's the same on the LSD? Do I need to be looking for a specific version to suit my 3.2 auto?

Are they difficult to swap over from the original? What's involved?

19
Omega General Help / What are these wires for?
« on: 12 October 2008, 14:09:27 »
I just found this wiring in my spare tyre well just next to the NSR light cluster in the boot. (2001 Elite Saloon)

What are they for? They aren't connected to anything.



The pink foam wrapped bit seems to have a very small resistor in it.

20
Omega General Help / Handbrake
« on: 11 October 2008, 12:44:59 »
My handbrake lever pulls all the way up and still doesn't hold the car that well.

Is this likely to be a cable problem or shoes?

I have some new shoes on their way from James which I am going to fit anyway.

If it is cable related, what are my options? Can I tension it and, if so, how?

Thanks

Nathan

21
Omega General Help / Driver's door window
« on: 04 October 2008, 08:42:04 »
My driver's door window just suddenly stopped working (whilst closed thankfully).

It clicks when you press the button, but nothing happens; almost like the moter is overloaded because it is blocked in some way. I have taken the interior card off, but can't see anything wrong.

Someone has offered me a new mechanism/motor, but the original is all rivetted to the door so I am out of my depth. Is there someone who would be willing to take a look and if possible fix it for a good, but fair rate?

Thanks

Nathan

22
Omega General Help / Into reverse & parking sensor beep
« on: 04 October 2008, 10:39:10 »
Occasionally when I put the car into reverse the car beeps continuously at a lower note than the intermittent beep that you get as you approach an object. This continuous lower-note beep sounds as soon as the car is put into reverse even when nothing is behind you. Taking the car out of reverse and putting it back into reverse sometimes clears it, but this is becoming more frequent and less easy to clear.

Any ideas? :-/

23
Omega General Help / Electric windows just clicks
« on: 26 August 2008, 21:47:51 »
My driver's side window just suddenly stopped working the other day. It makes a click when you try the button. If you press and hold the button it makes a 2nd click, but the window doesn't move.

Is this likely to be a connection or a motor problem?

24
Omega General Help / Error code 0650
« on: 25 August 2008, 22:21:55 »
Error code 0650.

Having doen a search, this code is apparently the "MIL control circuit".

What does that mean in plain English?

NB: My EML light (the orange dash light with the picture of an engine with a spark going through it) doesn't come on when you turn on the ignition any more so the bulb may have gone.

Do I need to replace something?

Cheers in advance.

Nathan

25
Omega General Help / Kill or Cure (Emmissions)
« on: 03 July 2008, 00:43:32 »
I've just fitted a new O2 sensor to my new exhaust and fitted them to new O2 sensor bosses which are behind the main cat.

Long story, but those of you with 3.2 l cars will know about this.

It is the 2nd sensors that are normally there to measure the pre-cats, but when the pre-cats get tired you get an incessant EML light warning with a code 0420 (RH) or 0430 (LH). A prescribed solution is to move the secondary sensors to behind the main cats and thereby "fool" the system into thinking that the pre-cats are working well, when in fact both cats are cleaning the exhaust before it gets as far as the now repositioned sensors.

The problem is that until I parked up tonight the EML light was on. I left he car for a good few hours to cool down and then fitted a new sensor into the new boss further back and then disconnected my old sensor that is further forward.

Instantly the EML light dissapeared when I next ran the car. Great I thought, until I realised that the EML light doesn't even come on now, not even whilst I turn the ignition barrel round to the point where all the warning ights come on momentarily.

What is wrong? Has the EML bulb miraculously blown as I changed the sensor? Is there a fuse problem? Is that EML light even supposed to come on when you turn on the ignition?


26
Omega General Help / Odd warning light behaviour (Code 0430)
« on: 22 June 2008, 14:46:34 »
I have the familiar 3.2/2.6 known 0430 issue where the pre-cat on the near side is being declared as "a bit tired".

I have a solution which is being fitted next week at long-life, but my warning lights behaved very strangely this week.

My EML light (The one with the side veiw of an engine) is on pretty consistently nowadays and I've got used to it. It is always related to code 0430 so there's no huge concern there, but earlier this week that light went out and the service light (The one with the side veiw of the car and a spanner) came on. It wasn't flashing or anything and the car behaved as normal. I rang my friendly local independent garage, who is aware of my EML light and emmissions issue, and he said not to worry and that it was only due to the same issue that had been outstanding for so long that the car is now trying to get more serious about telling me to get the system sorted.

Fine I thought I'll just wait until next weekend, change the exhaust, move the secondary lambda sensors further back in the system and get the lights cleared / reset.

What is strange though is that driving along half an hour ago the lights have just reverted so that the spanner light has gone out and the EML (engine picture) light has come back on.

It's Sunday and I can't check the codes myself on this car (facelift 3.2) with a paperclip, so does anyone have any ideas?

27
Omega General Help / Oil Change advice (How much oil?)
« on: 31 May 2008, 16:18:50 »
I've read the advice on changing the oil in a V6, and this advises 5.75 litres of oil. The only point I wanted to check was is this the same amount of oil as for a 3.2 V6?

Perhaps it is just me being silly, but I figured a bigger V6 engine might need a bit more oil.

The sump plug is out and the filter is out, so if anyone has any advice whilst I'm drinking my drainage time coffee it would be greatly appreciated.

Nathan


28
Whilst changing the oil and air filter today I spotted a long split about 3/4 of the way around the NS 3" diameter plastic intake pipe that has a 90o bend and is jubilee clipped onto the front of the plenum. It is the left hand pipe of a matching pair.

I have temporarily fixed it with black duck tape for the weekend and will get a new one on Monday, but what is this pipe called and what will the effect have been to how the engine runs whilst it has a split like that?

Effectively one half of the engine has been getting warm unfiltered engine bay air directly through that split for as long as I know.

29
Has anyone changed their front shock absorbers?

I'm hoping to do this, but really need some guidance on what is involved, what tools are needed and how long it might take.

30
Omega General Help / Front shocks
« on: 24 May 2008, 18:59:04 »
Having been to wheels-inmotion last week I was told that my front left shock absorber is on its way out. Tony could tell by the weird tyre wear pattern (an intermittent wear 2/3 of the way in and about 5cm in diameter every 10cm) of the tyre on that corner.

Question 1: Should I change both shocks at the same time whilst I'm at it, making that assumption that if one is going then the other will soon follow and thereby prevent the same waste of a tyre on the other side?

Question 2: Is changing front shocks an easy job? What's involved?

Question 3: If I do change both shocks then I'd go for MV6 shocks as I have just had MV6 springs fitted. Does anyone know what sort of price these are? (I do have a Trade Card)

Question 4: Are Vx shocks the best ones to go for?

Question 5: Do you think I'll need to replace that tyre or will it eventually wear itself back into an even keel? If so should I change both front tyres (apart from the weird wear pattern on the near-side resulting from the shock issue they are in very good condition and being 235x35x19 are expensive)

Advice appreciated; please feel free to anser any one or all questions :y

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