Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Welcome to OOF

Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Down

Author Topic: Brake Bleeding Question  (Read 3821 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

grifter

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Paisley, Scotland
  • Posts: 900
  • Omega Baron
    • Omega 2.6 CD / Elite 3.2
    • View Profile
Brake Bleeding Question
« on: 29 April 2020, 11:31:14 »

If your system is otherwise fine and you want to change the fluid, a one man bleeder seems to do a fine job, however if you replace a part like a caliper or rear piston, you then need to actually bleed the brakes i.e. until the piston comes back into contact with the disc or drum. Obviously the new part will be set back into it's recess, or placed at a standard position, and it needs to be forced out till it meets the contact surface of the disc/drum etc.

Is there a tool that lets you actually do this job one-man as at the moment you can only bleed the fluid through the new part, using air-pressure on a one-man bleed kit, but not actually push the piston/cylinder back to the contact surface of the pad/disc.


Logged

Diamond Black Geezer

  • Omega Lord
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • N E Lincolnshire & Warwickshire
  • Posts: 5694
  • Diamond Black '96 CDX V6 - 'Pissy'
    • & a silly coupe coming...
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #1 on: 29 April 2020, 11:34:49 »

If the essential result is that you don't want the piston to move toward the disc, would not a handy block of wood wedge this fine? Leaving you to bleed the brakes as per?  ???
Logged
Ex-Dealer Kent-Moore Rear Wheel Bearing Tool available for hire, PM for details.

"There's no point in being grown up if you can't be childish sometimes." 4th Doctor

deviator

  • Omega Knight
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Chesterfield
  • Posts: 1398
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #2 on: 29 April 2020, 11:36:25 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?
Logged
FCR and cam lock off kit available. Deposit maybe required. Contact me.

Doctor Gollum

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • In a colds and darks puddleses
  • Posts: 28089
  • If you can't eat them, join them...
    • Feetses.
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #3 on: 29 April 2020, 11:48:21 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?
This.  ;)

Clamp the flexi hose as near the joint disturbed as possible and remove/replace the component. Then bleed as normal...  :y

Just remember that the caliper will take some bleeding due to the volume of air being expelled.

Also, if you didn't clamp the flexi, front or rear dependent on which caliper, then you'll be bleeding the entire system then finding a garage/someone with Tech 2 to bleed the ABS block as well... In this case the car WILL NOT be driveable until this is done.
Logged
Onanists always think outside the box.

grifter

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Paisley, Scotland
  • Posts: 900
  • Omega Baron
    • Omega 2.6 CD / Elite 3.2
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #4 on: 29 April 2020, 12:10:04 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?

If you've pushed the pistons back in,they don't move back in with those one man bleeders, you have to have an assistant pressure the system from the pedal to force them out. If you're on your own you can't do that. I have however just read in car mechanics mag you can get a one way valve bleeder that lets you bleed from the pedal.

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/7700

Logged

grifter

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Paisley, Scotland
  • Posts: 900
  • Omega Baron
    • Omega 2.6 CD / Elite 3.2
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #5 on: 29 April 2020, 12:11:11 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?
This.  ;)

Clamp the flexi hose as near the joint disturbed as possible and remove/replace the component. Then bleed as normal...  :y

Just remember that the caliper will take some bleeding due to the volume of air being expelled.

Also, if you didn't clamp the flexi, front or rear dependent on which caliper, then you'll be bleeding the entire system then finding a garage/someone with Tech 2 to bleed the ABS block as well... In this case the car WILL NOT be driveable until this is done.

Why would you need tech2 to bleed the system?
Logged

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39446
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #6 on: 29 April 2020, 12:19:56 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?
This.  ;)

Clamp the flexi hose as near the joint disturbed as possible and remove/replace the component. Then bleed as normal...  :y

Just remember that the caliper will take some bleeding due to the volume of air being expelled.

Also, if you didn't clamp the flexi, front or rear dependent on which caliper, then you'll be bleeding the entire system then finding a garage/someone with Tech 2 to bleed the ABS block as well... In this case the car WILL NOT be driveable until this is done.

Why would you need tech2 to bleed the system?

To cycle the ABS pump to clear air that will be in there :y
Logged

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39446
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #7 on: 29 April 2020, 12:21:52 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?

If you've pushed the pistons back in,they don't move back in with those one man bleeders, you have to have an assistant pressure the system from the pedal to force them out. If you're on your own you can't do that. I have however just read in car mechanics mag you can get a one way valve bleeder that lets you bleed from the pedal.

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/7700

You'd bleed the system where ever the pistons are ....
Logged

Marks DTM Calib

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • West Bridgford
  • Posts: 33813
  • Git!
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #8 on: 29 April 2020, 12:25:44 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?
This.  ;)

Clamp the flexi hose as near the joint disturbed as possible and remove/replace the component. Then bleed as normal...  :y

Just remember that the caliper will take some bleeding due to the volume of air being expelled.

Also, if you didn't clamp the flexi, front or rear dependent on which caliper, then you'll be bleeding the entire system then finding a garage/someone with Tech 2 to bleed the ABS block as well... In this case the car WILL NOT be driveable until this is done.

Why would you need tech2 to bleed the system?

To cycle the ABS pump to clear air that will be in there :y

Possibly, every time I have been I this scenario its not been required  :y
Logged

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39446
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #9 on: 29 April 2020, 12:42:25 »

....
Possibly, every time I have been I this scenario its not been required  :y

I've never emptied a system to even think about cycling the pump  :y
Logged

Doctor Gollum

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • In a colds and darks puddleses
  • Posts: 28089
  • If you can't eat them, join them...
    • Feetses.
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #10 on: 29 April 2020, 12:42:59 »

....
Possibly, every time I have been I this scenario its not been required  :y

I've never emptied a system to even think about cycling the pump  :y
I only mention it in case the system has been left open ;)
Logged
Onanists always think outside the box.

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39446
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #11 on: 29 April 2020, 12:50:10 »

....
Possibly, every time I have been I this scenario its not been required  :y

I've never emptied a system to even think about cycling the pump  :y
I only mention it in case the system has been left open ;)
:y :y :y
Logged

YZ250

  • Omega Baron
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Oxford/Bucks border
  • Posts: 4152
    • Black 3.2 Elite Estate
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #12 on: 29 April 2020, 15:11:54 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?

I feel that I'm missing something as I agree entirely with the above and can't see what the issue is.  :-\

As said above, if you've replaced a Caliper or piston, bleed the system as normal (2 man or 1 man Eezibleed Kit) and when you have done that you are in exactly the same position as if you had retracted the pistons to change the disc pads, ie. the Pistons are out, as in not touching the brake pad against the disc, You then check the fluid, press the brake pedal, check the fluid again, and press the brake pedal until normal service is resumed.
Certainly no special tools needed.  :y
So, new Caliper on with disc pads fitted (with the pistons retracted as they would be if you'd fitted new pads), bleed brakes to fill Caliper with fluid (using Eezibleed if working solo), check fluid, pump pedal to push the piston out until solid, check fluid again.  :y
Apologies if I'm missing something.  :-\
« Last Edit: 29 April 2020, 15:16:29 by YZ250 »
Logged
My fun car is a 2020 Bmw F32 430d M Sport with indicators.
My cruiser is an Audi A6 Avant S Line Black Edition with indicators.

Viral_Jim

  • Omega Baron
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Telford
  • Posts: 4246
    • Too many, mostly broken
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #13 on: 29 April 2020, 18:15:15 »

Colour me also confused. I thought that Laser tool was just a budget alternative to an ezibleed...
Logged

dave the builder

  • Omega Lord
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Derbyshire
  • Posts: 7760
    • omega b2 2.6 cdxi
    • View Profile
Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« Reply #14 on: 29 April 2020, 18:43:19 »

Colour me also confused. I thought that Laser tool was just a budget alternative to an ezibleed...
or better still go to a pet shop and buy 2 x one way fish tank airline/airstone valves for 99p and a metre of airline plus a jam jar. :y
or, even cheaper  :)  just use a tube long enough to reach a jar with a little old brake fluid in (with the end of the tube submerged in fluid)

as for running the ABS pump, surely it runs when the engine runs, so all you need is the key for the car  ;D
omega A you can bypass the heavy duty relay even without the engine running to run ABS pump  :)
Logged
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.031 seconds with 22 queries.