Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Andy A on 28 April 2019, 19:47:18
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I am just about to book the Omega 2.2i 2003 in for a 4 wheel alignment and would like to take the correct setting with me so I can double check they are correct. I was going to have it done a while back but never got around to it. I have never had one done before.
Has any one got the list or printout of all the correct settings please?
Thanks
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Rear Toe and Camber will be a compromise, but Thrust angle MUST be zero.
Front, Toe is +0°03"
Camber should be - 1°10"
No ifs or buts :y
If they claim that they can't then achieve these settings take it somewhere that can/will. :y
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Rear Toe and Camber will be a compromise, but Thrust angle MUST be zero.
Front, Toe is +0°03"
Camber should be - 1°10"
No ifs or buts :y
If they claim that they can't then achieve these settings take it somewhere that can/will. :y
What are the rear settings or are they identical to the front?
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The rear settings vary car to car as they have a single adjustment that does both camber and track. But it is fundamentally critical that the thrust angle is zero :y
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The rear settings vary car to car as they have a single adjustment that does both camber and track. But it is fundamentally critical that the thrust angle is zero :y
Thanks Al. :y :y
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Slight correction, front toe should be negative, that's to say it should toe 'in'.
Rear camber will be around -3° and rear toe around -0°05" iirc but have seen figures up and down from both :y
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For the rear, the toe is more critical than the camber. If the camber is miles out, something is bent, and probably needs replacing.
As DG says, thrust angle must be 0'00
Front toe, mine tends to be set as per book, front camber at "almost" WIM settings, and castor adjusted every time in line with my complaints about the car.
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Anyone in Bristol tried these before http://www.fcmwheelalignment.co.uk/# and are they any good?
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I am going to take mine in for a full alignment check.
As I know very little about this science and am a little confused by the figures shown above, in one post what are the figures please that I can give to the garage?
Many thanks :-* :y
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See above...
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Anyone in Bristol tried these before http://www.fcmwheelalignment.co.uk/# and are they any good?
Yes I took my Omega there a few years ago and they seemed to know what they were doing. :y
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See above...
Yes, but you state very helpfully in reply #1 a set of figures, but then in post #5 you apply a correction, which I do not understand.
When I speak to the garage I want to know precisely what to say as I know nothing about these figures ;)
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https://images.app.goo.gl/ZYc9gxHDXKvQqP3t5
The correction was a grammatical mistake on my part :-[
Toe in and positive toe are one and the same... Ergo my first post was correct :y
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https://images.app.goo.gl/ZYc9gxHDXKvQqP3t5
The correction was a grammatical mistake on my part :-[
Toe in and positive toe are one and the same... Ergo my first post was correct :y
Ah, now I understand. Thanks DG :-* :y
I'll quote your reply #1 to my garage :y :y
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Anyone in Bristol tried these before http://www.fcmwheelalignment.co.uk/# and are they any good?
Yes I took my Omega there a few years ago and they seemed to know what they were doing. :y
Sounds good. Mine is booked in for next week. :y
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i did laser front wheel alignment on mine few months back when i fitted all new front suspension.
transformed it car drives fab now never been so good.
1mm toe in each side so 2mm total toe in.
1.3 degree negative camber on each front wheel
car drives straight brakes straight corners great and done 3k now these setting and new tyres and no srubbing or uneven wear to be seen yet.
never touched rear. i have had cars 4 wheel aligned in past and makes a exceptional difference. (if done right) if done wrong can be worse.
if car not wearing tyres and happy with how it drives and not messsed with anything on rear i always leave alone and just reset front as that all got messed with.
but ultimately resetting all 4 wheels (correctly) will make a massive improvement.
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As everything should be measured to the thrust angle (basically, ensure the rear geometry is perfect, then use that was the measurement point), I would normally call out "laser alignment"/"4 wheel alignment"/tracking etc as an utter waste of money. Simply because your base point is unknown, and so you're setting the geometry around an unknown point.
The Omega is particularly fussy, and absolutely must have Thrust Angle of 0'00 only. Compromise the rear camber if necessary, even if its way out - though that's a sure sign the rear suspension arms are badly bent.