Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: gbh on 21 February 2021, 12:26:41
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This product seems to have popped up on Facebook for spraying under your car and was wondering your thoughts on such things
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General rule of thumb, if anything is posted on arsebook, ignore it.
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Always used Waxoyl in the past well proven product, but no doubt some will disagree ,wouldn't purchase anything from FB I've been told that there are a lot of scams on it.
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Seen the ads, so they are saying spraying this without any preparation will fix all rusty evils..... Wonder why the car manufacturers don't use it then ::) ;D ;D
Having had one of my cars treated and undersealed at Rustbuster and another one done by myself with a kit from Rustbuster i'm pretty sure there's a bit more to it than spraying a rattle can of nothing special over anything that looks rusty with no preparation ie. no cleaning to remove road salt, no taking back to clean metal of any surface rust, no surface prep and rust inhibiting primer, no epoxy based coating....
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^ This. I had the Holden done with Dinitrol - took most of a week to prep and complete.
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Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber, Waxoyl is a bit to last Millenium and not as good as the more developed alternatives. :y
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And make sure you park it on someone else's drive for a week or 2 till it stops dripping ;D
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Waxoyl is a cavity wax , and is very good at that job.
It also has to be applied with a suitable air fed gun /applicator not the issp poor squirty thing that is often suggested . I use a trigger oil can with tube extension too.
Applied properly and regularily it WILL prolong the life of any car .
I sold an Opel Manta that I owned for 35 years in 2012 and it is now owned by a chap 35 miles from me . It has never been welded and is as good as new due to waxoyl. I have a Transit van that I have waxoyled since I got it and nearly all of a similar age are gone mine flies through the stringent commercial annual test each year .
My Omega has been waxoyled everywhere doors/sills/wheel arches/tailgate/under liners/chassis legs and is unmarked .I smirk when I read about rust in the arches and sills because that is down to no measures being taken to prevent it .
My BMW is flooded with the stuff .
I listen to all those who decry Waxoyl and just laugh ....
Waxoyling any vehicle is a really messy dirty and time consuming task and if you don't get filthy when doing it , you haven't done it right .
You get nothing for nothing when it comes to preventing rust on a vehicle .
Oh , and if you are too tight to buy it make your own .
Grated candle wax , chain bar oil and white spirit mixed together and kitchen blender . The consistency can be adjusted to suit any application .Google it because it's good and it works , I been using home made waxoyl for several years now.
Don't use it on any surface that will be abraded by road spray , clean /prep/dry and apply several layers of Gravitex for those areas .
And don't think it's a one hit solution , you have to keep on top of it by regular inspection and reapplication if necessary .
There .....!
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The difference, as highlighted above, is to get there with the protection before the rust starts, once it starts you have a bigger battle on your hands. :'(
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The project Mk2 Golf of Horrors is slowly coming along. I have soent far too long stripping the old underseal off. Hot air gun and a scraper is the best way.
Once thats done, a good wire brush to remove any loose bits (and show any holes). A brush of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 onto any surface rust, then a good zonc primer on bare metal.
Then top it with BH underbody, is the ultimate plan. Its slow but worth doing properly, once...
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Apparently dry ice is a thing for stripping off factory underseal :-\
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Apparently dry ice is a thing for stripping off factory underseal :-\
Don't know about underseal but it works when removing the hardened noise suppression pads stuck to the floorpan of most cars.
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Apparently dry ice is a thing for stripping off factory underseal :-\
Don't know about underseal but it works when removing the hardened noise suppression pads stuck to the floorpan of most cars.
It removes fingers too, if you're not careful ;D
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Waxoyl is a cavity wax , and is very good at that job.
It also has to be applied with a suitable air fed gun /applicator not the issp poor squirty thing that is often suggested . I use a trigger oil can with tube extension too.
Applied properly and regularily it WILL prolong the life of any car .
I sold an Opel Manta that I owned for 35 years in 2012 and it is now owned by a chap 35 miles from me . It has never been welded and is as good as new due to waxoyl. I have a Transit van that I have waxoyled since I got it and nearly all of a similar age are gone mine flies through the stringent commercial annual test each year .
My Omega has been waxoyled everywhere doors/sills/wheel arches/tailgate/under liners/chassis legs and is unmarked .I smirk when I read about rust in the arches and sills because that is down to no measures being taken to prevent it .
My BMW is flooded with the stuff .
I listen to all those who decry Waxoyl and just laugh ....
Waxoyling any vehicle is a really messy dirty and time consuming task and if you don't get filthy when doing it , you haven't done it right .
You get nothing for nothing when it comes to preventing rust on a vehicle .
Oh , and if you are too tight to buy it make your own .
Grated candle wax , chain bar oil and white spirit mixed together and kitchen blender . The consistency can be adjusted to suit any application .Google it because it's good and it works , I been using home made waxoyl for several years now.
Don't use it on any surface that will be abraded by road spray , clean /prep/dry and apply several layers of Gravitex for those areas .
And don't think it's a one hit solution , you have to keep on top of it by regular inspection and reapplication if necessary .
There .....!
100% agree here yes. mine were all wayoyled years ago and now just need a spring check over to see what the winter has done / repair as or if and recoat and thenwere off for another year.
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must admit thou, the lanoguard stuff does sound very plausible
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I used waxoyl for years on classics albeit in cavities; as a general chassis or underbody wax protectant it isn't particularly durable on its own. It helps to preserve the life of older underseal, by keeping it supple as long as it's sound. However, old underseal on its own can crack or lift, and is worse than no underseal at all as moisture penetrates, gets trapped resulting corrosion under seemingly sound underseal.
However, I too have progressed to Bilt Hamber products, which in my opinion and experience are far superior to any 'named' waxoyl and similar rust prevention wax. They have different formulations for under body and chassis, cavities etc. Bilt Hamber dries to a usuable consistancy a lot faster than Waxoyl, and is less prone to dripping all over the floor after application.
Thumbs up from me for Bilt Hamber products without question.
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yes bilt hamber stuff is very good.
used plenty of the deox-c powder over the years and the epoxy twopart black.
must agree too regarding the wayoyl. if youre not totally filthy when youve done then youre not doing it right !
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Well I'm going to keep an eye on this stuff or something similar as a reasonable priced solution but as always nice to see comments
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Bilt Hamber products are cheaper direct from their website rather than buying off Ebay and the like. Free postage as well over a (not too expensive) spend.
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Lanolin extracted underbody and marine treatments have been used in the U.S for decades. Lanoguard is a pukka product, but it's not a one off treatment, as it's supposed to be redone once a year, and not where it will be exposed to sunlight. I've used Bilt Hamber on two of the Omegas and the VXR8 was done professionally with the same. Omega No3 was going to get the BH treatment and being that it's rust free I thought about the Lanoguard, but the downside is that it'll have to be done every year and I might just not fancy topping it up year on year.....may well put it into Rustbusters and be done with it . :-\