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Amazing what one can learn by idly watching the latest car-related videos on YouTube.

I had never come across the "wet belt" term before, but apparently it refers to the engine design in which the timing belt (rubber) is part of the internal engine, not on pulleys outside. The belt goes round through the oil in the sump. Consequently, they degrade and trash the engine. Apparently, this feature is common in Fords, Citroens and now Vauxhalls, too.

Unsurprisingly, it costs a grand to have the belt changed in a Transit and the recommended mileage interval has been reduced. Furthermore, you are obliged to use a specific Ford oil. If you don't, or can't prove it, and the belt goes the you have no recourse even if the vehicle is under warranty.

Think I'll stick with my exterior-belted Omega (always changed within the 4-year limit). 

[urlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nog_0Oe7Z_M][/url]
 

I doubt it very much they seem to be invincible

https://news.sky.com/story/metas-ai-tells-facebook-user-it-has-disabled-gifted-child-in-response-to-parent-asking-for-advice-13117975

https://news.sky.com/story/first-known-test-dogfight-between-ai-and-human-pilot-carried-out-us-military-says-13118545

Shit like that should be enough to tarnish the SNP out of existence.

Any fault codes?

Could well be a tuning issue.

hi again
i reproducated the "error" successfully
so there are one more factor -> cold engine
after work i do the excact same thing: with cold engine from 70km/h i accelerated to 90km/h with the cruise control button (i holded, not pushed) and at 90km/h i heard some noise from rear i think it was the rear brake, then the TC icon appared and the accelerator pedal went full silent, but if i floored it, the "lifted" idle rpm (800 when this is happened) jumped up to around 1200. Then i tried reproducate again with operating temperature, then everything works just fine. I tried many gear - speed combination (eg.: at 4th 50-90, 60-90, 5th 80-90, 90-110) but everything is great when the engine is not cold. My car has chip tune (~196HP on dyno), maybe it has some "bug" with cold engine and specific butterfly valve position?

There's a picture in the guides/faq highlighting the difference between vented and non vented.

Yours should be non vented so pins should be freely available.

Just because something was previously changed,. doesn't mean that a) it's not faulty or b) not correctly fitted.

Fuel filter may not have made a difference, but I would wager that it was overdue.

The gear selector issue is yet another, separate, issue rather than part of everything else.

Have you replaced the MAF yet?

Have you reseated the cluster yet?

Also what other parts have been replaced recently?

Get the codes read, either with the pedal trick or an actual code reader and report back.

Crank sensor produces the rpm signal.

Camber, toe, height?

As for the dealer quoting for all those parts, only an idiot would replace factory original shocks on an older used car with some miles on it without replacing all those bits.

Springs can be subjective, but it's not a new, low mileage car.

Readings were

Left Hand.          Right Hand

+ 0.5                  + 0.6

1.2                       0.3

67.8 cm                67.2 cm.   ( ground to wheel arch)