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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,

As above. Am in the market for one that specifically will fit on the schrader valve on the inlets so i can measure fuel pressure. Can anyone recommend a good kit at a reasonable price?

As an aside, has anyone got the spec for fuel pressure for the 2.5 mig? Think its at idle and 3k rpm.... or thereabouts

[05omegav6]

Oh lordy, it's gonna be a long week

It be stamped on the body of the fuel pressure regulator

Does exactly what it says on the tin... Hence the name

[Webby the Bear]

Oh lordy, it's gonna be a long week

It be stamped on the body of the fuel pressure regulator

Does exactly what it says on the tin... Hence the name

You love my questions Al! i'm just inquisitive thats all

The spec pressures are stamped on the FPR? Hmmm, never noticed that 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yes, on the fuel pressure regulator, 3.0 bar for 2.5/3.0 and 3.7 bar for 2.6/3.2.

In theory the pressure varies slightly with engine load (buts its very little)

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Mark.

To test the regulator am i right in thinking that i pull the vacuum pipe off with car running at idle and the psi should jump up by about 10? thus confirms diaphrams working

[Marks DTM Calib]

Nope.....and 10 what....if its Bar than that massive!? 

In the case of modern setups, the pressure variation is jack all with the 'vac' connection being little more than a clean air supply close to atmospheric as the reference.

[Webby the Bear]

Nope.....and 10 what....if its Bar than that massive!? 

In the case of modern setups, the pressure variation is jack all with the 'vac' connection being little more than a clean air supply close to atmospheric as the reference.

  no, i did say psi

ok thanks. is there a way to check the operation of the regulator then?

[05omegav6]

Nope.....and 10 what....if its Bar than that massive!? 

In the case of modern setups, the pressure variation is jack all with the 'vac' connection being little more than a clean air supply close to atmospheric as the reference.

  no, i did say psi

ok thanks. is there a way to check the operation of the regulator then?

Yup... if it sticks shut, the engine floods and won't start when hot.

If it sticks open then it will struggle at higher revs, would probably idle ok as the fuel pump runs at about 6 bar iirc

They're pretty bombproof though

Incidentally, if it's a bit weak it will lose pressure over time...

Could use one of Theses for basic checking

[Webby the Bear]

Nope.....and 10 what....if its Bar than that massive!? 

In the case of modern setups, the pressure variation is jack all with the 'vac' connection being little more than a clean air supply close to atmospheric as the reference.

  no, i did say psi

ok thanks. is there a way to check the operation of the regulator then?

Yup... if it sticks shut, the engine floods and won't start when hot.

If it sticks open then it will struggle at higher revs, would probably idle ok as the fuel pump runs at about 6 bar iirc

They're pretty bombproof though

Incidentally, if it's a bit weak it will lose pressure over time...

Could use one of Theses for basic checking

Thanks Al,

When you say a stuck open FPR would struggle at higher revs...... do you mean this could be a reason for my car's lack of power from flooring it? (Trying to cover all bases as well as checking the multirams in the thread in gen. help) 

[05omegav6]

The fuel pump delivers fuel at a constant pressure. If the fpr is weak or sticking open, then it will let more fuel back to the tank meaning less fuel for the injectors... Then when you floor it the ecu opens the injectors for the maximum duration and the fuel rail drains causing starvation. Lift off and the ecu will close the injectors, allowing fuel pressure to build again.

The design pressure of the system is set so that at constant WOT the fuel pump delivers more fuel than the injectors can use, the fpr then acts as an overflow by returning this excess to the tank.

Your issue could be in one of three places...

1. Partially blocked fuel filter.
2. Weak or failing fuel pump.
3. Weak or sticking fpr.

Start with the filter, then the fpr and finally the pump.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks mate, exactly what I thought! cheers for confirming! 

[Nick W]

Going back to your original question, Sealey's VSE211 is currently on promotion for about £70 and will do what you needd. I've been tempted by one for a while.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Nick! 

[the alarming man]

Nope.....and 10 what....if its Bar than that massive!? 

In the case of modern setups, the pressure variation is jack all with the 'vac' connection being little more than a clean air supply close to atmospheric as the reference.

  no, i did say psi

ok thanks. is there a way to check the operation of the regulator then?

Yup... if it sticks shut, the engine floods and won't start when hot.

If it sticks open then it will struggle at higher revs, would probably idle ok as the fuel pump runs at about 6 bar iirc

They're pretty bombproof though

Incidentally, if it's a bit weak it will lose pressure over time...

Could use one of Theses for basic checking

Are they really??...they are not the same that are fitted to the Vectra then as they are horses kack

[05omegav6]

Well given that the 2.2 petrol in the Vectra C is a dog of an engine, I should hope not too, especially given the totally different fuelling arrangement