Topic: Groping (Read 2947 times)

terry paget · « **on:** 02 February 2020, 16:54:05 »

"No more groping!", said the wife. Puzzled I replied,"Those days are over".
I have a new coolant leak on my last Omega. Peering up at the left hand bottom end of the radiator I see a damp patch. I have changed radiators before, but this forum has advised me to do no more heavy jobs liable to bruise my hands, lest I suddenly drop dead. Bother.

GastronomicKleptomaniac · « **Reply #1 on:** 02 February 2020, 17:20:14 »

Terry, you've been here for so long, I'm sure someone local will pop over and do it for a brew and a bacon butty...

STEMO · « **Reply #2 on:** 02 February 2020, 17:44:56 »

Quote from: GastronomicKleptomaniac on 02 February 2020, 17:20:14

Terry, you've been here for so long, I'm sure someone local will pop over and do it for a brew and a bacon butty...

Long way from Teesside (the nice bit). Or did you mean 'someone else'.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #3 on:** 02 February 2020, 17:59:23 »

It's a bit of a hike, but you're welcome to bring it over here...

GastronomicKleptomaniac · « **Reply #4 on:** 05 February 2020, 15:37:02 »

Quote from: STEMO on 02 February 2020, 17:44:56

Quote from: GastronomicKleptomaniac on 02 February 2020, 17:20:14
Terry, you've been here for so long, I'm sure someone local will pop over and do it for a brew and a bacon butty...
Long way from Teesside (the nice bit). Or did you mean 'someone else'.

Definitely the latter...!

aaronjb · « **Reply #5 on:** 05 February 2020, 15:39:17 »

If the radiator is dry above the level of the bleed screw (the red bit) then the problem is two O-rings on the bleed screw itself. (If it's wet above that then it's coming from somewhere else, of course)

omegod · « **Reply #6 on:** 05 February 2020, 16:19:00 »

Halfords "little pack of O rings" used to fit the bleed screw perfectly , not sure now like !

Really helpful aren't I

terry paget · « **Reply #7 on:** 06 February 2020, 09:30:19 »

Quote from: aaronjb on 05 February 2020, 15:39:17

If the radiator is dry above the level of the bleed screw (the red bit) then the problem is two O-rings on the bleed screw itself. (If it's wet above that then it's coming from somewhere else, of course)

I will check again, but I am pretty sure it was wet above the bleed screw. I have changed those O-rings on many an Omega in the past! They are 2 different sizes, aren't they?

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #8 on:** 06 February 2020, 12:45:06 »

The plastic usually splits in the top corner, near the top hose, and runs down the side.

terry paget · « **Reply #9 on:** 10 February 2020, 14:11:54 »

Quote from: Migv6 le Frog Fan on 06 February 2020, 12:45:06

The plastic usually splits in the top corner, near the top hose, and runs down the side.

Quite right. It seemed to run all around the pipe, but on moving the hose back on the pipe, it appears to be a small hole right at the top. Proper repair is replace the radiator, but that involves groping; can I repair the small hole, if so, what is the best method - araldite, hot air gun, something else?;

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #10 on:** 10 February 2020, 16:46:45 »

Those are all temporary bodges as the involve heat... And will fail once the radiator heats up

Raeturbo · « **Reply #11 on:** 10 February 2020, 21:14:42 »

https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resin-gel-silicone-adhesive/epoxy-resin/very-high-temperature-epoxy-laminating-resin.html
Have a look at this stuff

terry paget · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 February 2020, 17:08:17 »

Now I am confused. In post#9 I moved the top hose back along the pipe to expose the leak better, but in a 2 hour idle only a tiny leak appeared. I took it for a 10 mile drive yesterday morning, and 12 miles Wells and back last night. no leak. 12 further miles this morning, still no coolant loss. Explain.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #13 on:** 12 February 2020, 18:10:56 »

No water left or thermostat didn't open.

terry paget · « **Reply #14 on:** 12 February 2020, 18:48:42 »

Rocking the car I can see the coolant level is still correct. Heater blows hot, top hose is hot.

dave the builder · « **Reply #15 on:** 12 February 2020, 19:48:41 »

probably closed the crack up and next time you sneeze it will leak again

or moving the hose clamp has cured it

terry paget · « **Reply #16 on:** 12 February 2020, 20:09:10 »

Quote from: dave the builder on 12 February 2020, 19:48:41

probably closed the crack up and next time you sneeze it will leak again
or moving the hose clamp has cured it

Maybe. I tried grasping the top hose firmly and wiggling it, but I could not reopen the crack.
It may be moving the clamp and hose has cured it, but it has not moved for 5 years, but only began to leak a month ago.
Beats me. All I can do is go on using it and see if it recurs.
Meanwhile, it is due MOT in April, already has an exhaust leak in the LH manifold region, and I was prepared to scrap it without more ado. If there is no coolant leak I am tempted to submit it for test and see how it gets on.

dave the builder · « **Reply #17 on:** 12 February 2020, 20:18:37 »

Quote from: terry paget on 12 February 2020, 20:09:10

Quote from: dave the builder on 12 February 2020, 19:48:41
probably closed the crack up and next time you sneeze it will leak again
or moving the hose clamp has cured it
Maybe. I tried grasping the top hose firmly and wiggling it, but I could not reopen the crack.
It may be moving the clamp and hose has cured it, but it has not moved for 5 years, but only began to leak a month ago.
Beats me. All I can do is go on using it and see if it recurs.
Meanwhile, it is due MOT in April, already has an exhaust leak in the LH manifold region, and I was prepared to scrap it without more ado. If there is no coolant leak I am tempted to submit it for test and see how it gets on.

even if you pay to have the exhaust blow fixed or a few other jobs , may be cheaper than finding another car

better the devil you know $:-\$

terry paget · « **Reply #18 on:** 12 February 2020, 22:58:37 »

I have changed a RH exhaust manifold on a 2.5, not too bad a job, but the LH manifold is trickier, involving either removing engine from car, or LH cylinder head. I recall the studs into the head are liable to break off, requiring drilling out. Sounds expensive, if I can get a manifold. Of course, I am not sure it is a cracked manifold, but is certainly blowing from the noise. It might slip past a generous tester, but the worry then is emissions. For 20 year old car that cost me £259 5 years ago, it sounds unattractive.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #19 on:** 13 February 2020, 13:57:06 »

If you don't feel that is value for money, I don't know what else to say $:-\$

dave the builder · « **Reply #20 on:** 13 February 2020, 15:40:29 »

Terry forgot to deduct the money returned when he scraps it

if the manual gearbox ,pedals etc was sold (buyer to remove) ,then sell or weigh in both cats to a specialist buyer like WARR
then sell the alloys ,then get a scrap man to pay Terry to collect what is left ...
Terry would be in profit by some margin

News:

Author Topic: Groping (Read 2947 times)

STEMO

aaronjb