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Messages - Matteomart

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1
If I'm not wrong - if the immobiliser isn't flashing, then the immobiliser is disarmed .. and the problem is elsewhere, no?

Yup. :y

Let's just say I had a similar problem on my last mfl, after hours of kicking shouting and tech2, which didn't find the fault it turned out to be very simple, and was cheap......



One of the big fuses, in the auxiliary box on top of the battery..
Were you getting the wrong immobiliser signal code?


More codes than bletchley park

Mine is a 95 so i don't have the fuse box over the battery  :-\

2
If I'm not wrong - if the immobiliser isn't flashing, then the immobiliser is disarmed .. and the problem is elsewhere, no?

Yup. :y

Let's just say I had a similar problem on my last mfl, after hours of kicking shouting and tech2, which didn't find the fault it turned out to be very simple, and was cheap......



One of the big fuses, in the auxiliary box on top of the battery..
Were you getting the wrong immobiliser signal code?

3
I've just cleaned the pins for the immobiliser ecu and still nothing. I tried unplugging it and when i do that the EML flashes like it is supposed to but when i plug it back in it behaves as it should but still no spark or fuel is being pumped.

4
The photo shows the same arrangement as on my old '96 Omega. Same black box under the ignition. It has a collar on top that acts as a housing/pickup for the ignition barrel. Did you try unplugging the connector and cleaning the contacts with some pure isopropanal (isopropyl alcohol)?

It also seems that there is a fault with Omegas whereby "The infrared remote control does not function at times, even after replacement of the batteries, making deactivation of the immobiliser impossible.". The solution is to program a newer unaffected remote to the car. This requires a TECH interface.

Vehicles affected have a VIN number between 'W0Lnnnnnn R1 000001' and 'WOLnnnnnn S1 072158'. R or S are the 10th characters of the VIN and represent the model year spec the car was built to. R=1994 and S=1995. T=1996 and would be unaffected. Does your car fall within the affected range? Although it's hard to imagine the car got to this age without the problem coming to light.

Mine is S1233779 so that is outside of the range if i'm not mistaken?

5
Do the plugs fit each other?

All the parts in the car are the factory fitted ones so yeah they fit. Just having issues getting the car running and someone suggested that it could be the immobiliser ecu.
That isn't what I asked. You said you had two unconnected plugs. Do these plugs match each other?

The key has the chip and the plugs are on opposite sides of the car so I'm don't think they're related to eachother

Thanks

6
Do the plugs fit each other?

All the parts in the car are the factory fitted ones so yeah they fit. Just having issues getting the car running and someone suggested that it could be the immobiliser ecu.

7
Nothing looked wrong with the ecu visually is there anyway i can test it without having to buy all new parts?

9
Hi, I've found a plug in the relay box that isn't plugged into anything and another one that comes from under the air filter that isn't plugged in.

Can some teach me how to post pictures please too. I think if I could send some pictures it will be a lot easier for people yo know what I mean.

Thanks

I couldn't find anywhere the plug went in the relay box everything seems to have wires already in there.

10
Hi, I've found a plug in the relay box that isn't plugged into anything and another one that comes from under the air filter that isn't plugged in.

Can some teach me how to post pictures please too. I think if I could send some pictures it will be a lot easier for people yo know what I mean.

Thanks

12
Do you still get fault code 145 and does it still change to 144 after one minute?
Are there any other fault codes? I would have thought that you should see '31 - No Engine RPM Signal', if the ignition is on. Starting normally clears it (perhaps it is only necessary to crank the engine?).

It sounds to me that the transponder receiver is not accepting your key. And since cranking does not produce a flashing EML then it also looks like the reader is not working at all. As I hazily recall, the receiver is a, flimsy looking, square black box visible underneath the ignition key barrel, when you remove the cowl.

I suspect that you need to get somebody with a Tech-2 to check what's happening. If you try to get a new key with blank transponder then, in any event that will have to be programmed to the car using Tech-2. And you will need the code from the car pass to do that.

Also it seems that either your key fob is defective. Or the receiver by the courtesy light is duff. But I don't think that would disable the immobiliser function.

Try unplugging the wiring from the immobiliser receiver and check for corrosion. Clean the terminals with some isopropyl alcohol. Then plug it back in, perhaps breaking and reconnecting might fix it.

I assume you've checked all the fuses? Especially 12, 13 & 14. And double checked the relay you changed?
I've checked all the fuses and the relay I changed the only codes I get are the 145 to begin with which eventually changes to 144, no other codes. Where is the immobiliser receiver located and I'll give unplugging a shot.

Thanks

13
Are you positive you have fitted the correct crank sensor?
There are three different but electrically incompatible crank sensors for V6 Omegas.

The earliest has a rectangular plug with straight sides. Might have been on early 2.5 & 3.0 V6. Yours is borderline for the changeover
The two later versions have oval sides on the plug.
One of the later types is 540-550Ω (maybe Delphi) and the other is 850-900Ω and was made by Bosch. Since they both have the same plug they both will appear to fit. However they are not interchangeable. I think the 540Ω was only used on 2.5, never on 2.6 3.0 or 3.2 which use the Bosch. However some 2.5 V6s use the Bosch version. Must depend on the engine number.

I got the part number off of my old one and bought a new one with the same part number and the plug looked the same

14
I think it is possible something is water damaged, I have never made the alarm activate so i think it might be broken. And for water damage a year or so ago where the HT lead meets the spark plug had a big puddle of water in there which i emptied out and let dry. There is no sign of water on anything electrical near the fuse box. I don't know what a ring pickup thing is supposed to look like but there is a black rectangular thing attached to the ignition barrel.
Do you mean that the alarm never worked at all? Or only since the recent non-start issue arose?
AIUI not all early models had the alarm fitted as standard, it was optional on some. But they all have an immobiliser as standard. So perhaps yours has no alarm.
The key is described as an immobiliser key so it must have the ID chip in it as opposed to the separate fob. This might be an different chip than the later ID-40 (perhaps ID-33?), not sure about that. However assuming it works the same way as the newer keys then disconnecting the battery does not de-pair the key from the car.

According to the manual, if your car does have an alarm then it can be armed by pressing the close button on the remote fob, assuming it's synced. Yours apparently isn't. The alarm can also be armed using the key in the driver's door. Turn anti-clockwise to position to approx 30º before vertical. Should be just before the point where you feel resistance. To deactivate turn the key clockwise to 30º past vertical.

AIUI if the key is incorrect then the EML should flash when you try and start the car, that indicates that the immobiliser has not disengaged. Does your EML flash?
The alarm used to work, it doesn't since the non-start issue. The eml does not flash when I crank the car, it goes off completely.

15
Not sure on the 95 Immobilizer workings, but on the later ones once you had a Immobilizer lock out period (ie wont start) you had to go through a reset motion in order to try again and get it to start, might be worth trying this.

Example, you have 2 keys, one knowingly has a Transponder Chip inside, the second one doesnt or its the wrong Chip Code (but you keep it as a spare) you unlock car put the Key, doesnt start, youve put the wrong Key in (the second key), so you realise silly me put the wrong key in, so you now put the correct key and try it, still wont start, reason is its still locked up mode. to reset it ready for the correct, 1, remove Key, 2, open and close Door, 3, Lock the Door, unlock door, 4 Open Door and Key in (correct one) and start.

Possibly unplugging the Main ECU or removing the Battery for a while should have the same effect but its obviously easier to do the door thing.

The above may help you, but as said, Not sure about the early ones.

Worst case the early ones could have the Imobilizer disabled with and Tech 2 and someone who knows  what there doing, guessing your need the Car Pass as well, so all is not lost.

On the Crank Sensor front, still not convinced it wasnt faulty, I had a couple now where theyve been fine but Parked Up for a while and refuse to start due to Crank Sensor issue, and it doesnt always throw a CS Issue Code untill later on or when youve finally got it going again.

Where did you get the Crank Sensor from? anything other than walking into a VX Parts to get one could give issues (did you measure it was the new one under 1K ohms?, as said there about 900 ohms and will read about +- 10 ohms briefly wih a metallic knife etc on the sensor).
The cranksensor i got on ebay it was just a cheap one to see if the car would start then i was going to pick up a genuine vx one. and i did test it and it read 852 ohms. The car has had the battery taken out for a while quite a few times since it wouldn't start so i'll try unplugging the main ecu.

The key thing I dont have a spare just 1 key that had worked every single time before

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