Topic: Rear wheel bearing change continued (Read 3657 times)

polilara · « **on:** 16 May 2019, 19:04:33 »

So, old bearing on the floor, nothing broken yet. I have tools to push new bearing in and I am now designin a nut system to pull the hub back in. Next I should install the flange to the inner side. How that tool should look like?

Nick W · « **Reply #1 on:** 16 May 2019, 23:19:29 »

I use the old inner bearing race as a spacer to pull the hub back into place using its own nut. The race does need to be a loose fit, which is acheived by cutting a slot in it. Which is the easy way to get it off the hub.

polilara · « **Reply #2 on:** 17 May 2019, 06:12:32 »

Hello, yes - my idea was to use id 34.5 spacers which are a bit larger than the outer dia of the groove part of the hub. As the dia 39 part of the hub (where inner race of baring sits) is shorter than the bearing there is no need to "loose fit". Perhaps estate is different than saloon or I misundesrtood again. However, my problem is get the flange back to the hub after having installed to hub to the bearing. How to do that?

Nick W · « **Reply #3 on:** 17 May 2019, 07:10:58 »

Now I'm confused, the drive flange is easy: push it as far onto the hub splines as you can, tap it home with a mallet and tighten the nut to the specified torque setting.

Spacers for pulling the hub into the bearing go against the inner race of the new bearing. The spacer needs to be a loose fit on the hub so you can get it off easily. I have two in my bearing kit: one with a slot cut in it to get off the hub originally; and another, that my assistant removed with a puller, that I bored out in the lathe.

biggriffin · « **Reply #4 on:** 17 May 2019, 07:57:22 »

All I do,is dress the hub with a bit of 800 grade wet/dry that's got oil on, then push the hub back in, piece of timber on the hub, then whack it in with a hammer, tighten it up with a windy gun,

polilara · « **Reply #5 on:** 17 May 2019, 09:45:53 »

Quote from: Nick W on 17 May 2019, 07:10:58

Now I'm confused, the drive flange is easy: push it as far onto the hub splines as you can, tap it home with a mallet and tighten the nut to the specified torque setting.

Spacers for pulling the hub into the bearing go against the inner race of the new bearing. The spacer needs to be a loose fit on the hub so you can get it off easily. I have two in my bearing kit: one with a slot cut in it to get off the hub originally; and another, that my assistant removed with a puller, that I bored out in the lathe.

My turn to be confused, the diameter of the drive shaft (of that part which goes in to the inner race) is 39 mm + some hundreds. That part newer come through the inner race as the length of that part is 38 mm and the length of bearing is 45mm. This 45 is measured from the new bearing, perhaps it is wrong part. Have to measure the length of the old bearing when back home.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #6 on:** 17 May 2019, 10:05:44 »

Saloon and estates use different bearings... The estate ones are longer ie they support a longer shaft length...

You have the wrong bearing...

Estate is same size as this:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=312531364962&category=174097&pm=1&ds=0&t=1558083811991&cspheader=1

Hth.

polilara · « **Reply #7 on:** 17 May 2019, 10:12:35 »

OK, then I can understand what Nick W means... Sorry for that.

What is the length of Saloon bearing?

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #8 on:** 17 May 2019, 10:18:44 »

Quote from: polilara on 17 May 2019, 10:12:35

OK, then I can understand what Nick W means... Sorry for that.

What is the length of Saloon bearing?

39mm as per:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Omega-1994-2003-Rear-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-/302340675199

polilara · « **Reply #9 on:** 17 May 2019, 10:49:46 »

OK thanks, let's see, after having measured the old one I know what I really had there. This Saloon link bearing fits perhaps to some front wheel driven cars, too, because of two Seeger Rings and a cotter pin??

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #10 on:** 17 May 2019, 11:08:31 »

Quote from: polilara on 17 May 2019, 10:49:46

OK thanks, let's see, after having measured the old one I know what I really had there. This Saloon link bearing fits perhaps to some front wheel driven cars, too, because of two Seeger Rings and a cotter pin??

The link was to demonstrate the size... The picture may not be entirely accurate

polilara · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 May 2019, 11:24:49 »

OK, clear, sometimes too much over thinking...

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #12 on:** 17 May 2019, 11:58:35 »

Quote from: polilara on 17 May 2019, 11:24:49

OK, clear, sometimes too much over thinking...

Perhaps, but questioning is a way to learn

polilara · « **Reply #13 on:** 18 May 2019, 06:25:27 »

So, old bearing is Od 74 Id 39 L 39, hub length is 38 So there is 1mm Gap after having installed the flange, logical. And loose fit of spacer needed as Nick W said.

polilara · « **Reply #14 on:** 21 May 2019, 17:27:34 »

Real progress; bearing, hub and flange installed. Thanks for all tips. Next task is to tighten the nut to 300Nm. Good ideas welcome, I am workin on the floor.

Nick W · « **Reply #15 on:** 21 May 2019, 17:56:06 »

Quote from: polilara on 21 May 2019, 17:27:34

Real progress; bearing, hub and flange installed. Thanks for all tips. Next task is to tighten the nut to 300Nm. Good ideas welcome, I am workin on the floor.

Do it up as tight as standard 1/2" impact gun will manage.

Do the final torquing with a torque wrench. Which is fiddly, but doable

polilara · « **Reply #16 on:** 21 May 2019, 19:30:04 »

OK, I even try, not too much space there..., thanks anyway!

polilara · « **Reply #17 on:** 22 May 2019, 18:14:55 »

So, my torque tool is up to 210Nm. The nut is in that tightness now, any idea how many degrees needed more. Hard to find 300 Nm tool.

Nick W · « **Reply #18 on:** 22 May 2019, 18:18:06 »

Quote from: polilara on 22 May 2019, 18:14:55

So, my torque tool is up to 210Nm. The nut is in that tightness now, any idea how many degrees needed more. Hard to find 300 Nm tool.

Not hard to find, just expensive. Can you borrow one from somewhere?

biggriffin · « **Reply #19 on:** 22 May 2019, 18:18:31 »

Quote from: polilara on 22 May 2019, 18:14:55

So, my torque tool is up to 210Nm. The nut is in that tightness now, any idea how many degrees needed more. Hard to find 300 Nm tool.

As nick says, bang up with windy gun then
1/2 bar and do it up to FT, I've not had one come loose.

If you want to torque it up, most truck company have torque wrench go that high

polilara · « **Reply #20 on:** 22 May 2019, 18:27:27 »

Have to look around to borrow and check price, too. Not needed too often I think.

polilara · « **Reply #21 on:** 25 May 2019, 12:41:18 »

So I bought the tool, 59 Euro, now in 300 Nm. I have difficulties to install the locking plate, destroyed two now. When I put it in with hammer and pin it becomes loose. Is it really necessary to install it at all? My idea is to just throw it away. Do all of you all always put it there? Honest answers please.

polilara · « **Reply #22 on:** 26 May 2019, 07:48:51 »

Any comments? Is e locking plate a must?

Nick W · « **Reply #23 on:** 26 May 2019, 07:59:37 »

I've never been convinced that a soft, stamped sheetmetal part is going to do anything to 'lock' a screw fastener tightened to 300NM. I've left off tabbed and spring washers and never lost a part. The last RWB I changed didn't get the plate either.

polilara · « **Reply #24 on:** 26 May 2019, 08:06:51 »

Thanks, that helped a lot. I have the same opinion.

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Author Topic: Rear wheel bearing change continued (Read 3657 times)