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Author Topic: Passed MOT but......  (Read 4740 times)

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05omegav6

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #15 on: 03 May 2015, 12:15:11 »

Between that and the two hammer approach you'll be fine :y
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chrisgixer

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #16 on: 03 May 2015, 12:17:46 »

Ball joint removal tool is absolutely ideal for damaging the boot. But it does work, if stubborn, apply air hammer as well. It will ping off though, so keep your head clear.
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Lazydocker

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #17 on: 03 May 2015, 16:21:39 »

Ball joint removal tool is absolutely ideal for damaging the boot. But it does work, if stubborn, apply air hammer as well. It will ping off though, so keep your head clear.

You can use a ball joint tool if you are careful though... I've used mine hundreds of times on that style of joint (including several idlers) and only ever split 1 boot
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Whatever it is... I didn't do it

Toledodude1973

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #18 on: 03 May 2015, 17:30:51 »

Thanks LD , so we're saying the new idler has really got to be GM , if so would anyone have part no. or idea of cost ..cheers
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Lazydocker

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #19 on: 03 May 2015, 17:32:42 »

Thanks LD , so we're saying the new idler has really got to be GM , if so would anyone have part no. or idea of cost ..cheers

Recent experiences are not good with aftermarket ones, even Lemforder.
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chrisgixer

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #20 on: 03 May 2015, 17:44:28 »

Ball joint removal tool is absolutely ideal for damaging the boot. But it does work, if stubborn, apply air hammer as well. It will ping off though, so keep your head clear.

You can use a ball joint tool if you are careful though... I've used mine hundreds of times on that style of joint (including several idlers) and only ever split 1 boot
Yes, hence the warning ;)
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Toledodude1973

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #21 on: 03 May 2015, 17:49:07 »

Gottya Chris i'm going down the hammer route initially :y Are all models using the same part number or do the idlers differ from car to car? :-\
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Toledodude1973

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #22 on: 03 May 2015, 20:46:26 »

I've taken a picture of each pivot point on the nearside wishbone,as previously posted the MOT examiner said they had deteriorated,apart from surface rust on the metalwork they looked ok to me ,i know pictures aren't great but what do you think? Thanks for any comments :y
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Nick W

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #23 on: 03 May 2015, 20:52:40 »

Your top photo of the rear joint is a text-book example of a oppsed bush!
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Toledodude1973

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #24 on: 03 May 2015, 21:04:23 »

Nick does thar mean knackered?
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Nick W

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #25 on: 03 May 2015, 21:06:28 »

Sorry to use the technical term ;)
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05omegav6

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #26 on: 03 May 2015, 22:14:16 »

And on a cautionary note...

This factory fitted GM item...





... was removed from an '03 80k ish desmond.

Original plan had been to refurb them ready for when the new ones just fitted wear out... nearside one is bent and twisted, as per the pics. Both now binned.

Just to add, no undo force was used to liberate them as the shocks were being replaced, so popped the bolts out an slid out level :y
« Last Edit: 03 May 2015, 22:16:36 by Taxi Al »
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Toledodude1973

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #27 on: 04 May 2015, 16:54:34 »

Thanks for pictures Al i'm going to replace both wishbones now.I will start by reading maintenance guide, be patient all, as i'm bound to have many questions sorry ;D :y
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Toledodude1973

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #28 on: 04 May 2015, 21:24:41 »

Been reading wishbone fitting guide, if i understand correctly you can tighten the bottom ball joint to100nm and inner bolt to 65nm but must leave the front side-on bolt loose until car weight is applied.What does it mean when tightening this final bolt to 120nm then  further 30 degrees?thenfurther 15 degrees?Don't understand that bit ???
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05omegav6

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Re: Passed MOT but......
« Reply #29 on: 04 May 2015, 21:43:10 »

Front wheels must be on the ground when the front bolts are tightened...

120nm is the torque required and the 30 and 15 subsequent angle tightening :y
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