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[Tony]

Hi All

Car 95 Omega B estate LHD 2L 16v

My idel speed seems to be a bit wayward.
It started a few months ago whilst i had the car over in Ireland, when when leaving the motorway and the revs drop down to idel speed, my revs were hanging at about 2000 rpm, flick the the gas pedel made no difference ie... the revs would go up when i flick the pedle but would only return to 2000 rpm, the only way i could drop the revs is to  lift the clutch a bit whilst in gear, then let the revs drop to normal approx 900 rpm then they would be ok for the remainder of the trip.
It has gotten worse now, and seems to do it approx 70% of the time when the car comes to a stop, i can still drop the revs via the clutch, but the next time i stop they would be at 2000 rpm again, it does not do it all the time but most of it.
I have had no warning lights come up on the dash at all. This problem does not really bother me, but i have to get the car MOTed and i am sure that it would fail the emissions test if reving so high.
I want to have a look at it tomorrow, if the weather is good, so do you guys have any idears on what to look for and where to start?

I also want to adjust the handbreak, the handbreak handle comes up to high, now on my omega A all i did was adjust the cable at the handbreak handle end. But i asked for a price for it to be done along with some other work from Euro Master (German Kwick Fit) and he said that on the Omega B it can only be done at the Handbreak shoes, IE removing the break disks, is this true, or was it a ploy just to try and get more money from me?

Thanks for any help

Regards

Tony

[Taxi_Driver]

Hmmm not sure but might be an air leak......try checking out AA's how to on throttle body clean out...might be that too.... :-/

[Chopsdad]

Handbrake is best adjusted at the shoes - do a search as it came up in discussion recently - so no it's not a con - of course I can't speak for the outfit of course  

Throttle could be an air leak as TD suggested or faulty Mass Air Flow Meter (MAF) or a sticking throttle butterfly.  AA's guide for cleaning the breathers is easy to follow and for a fiver may transform your car and is worth doing first  

If you have access to a Tech2 there may be stored fault codes that would tell us where to look.

[Chopsdad]

Q When you start the car does the orange emissions light come on - it is next to the red handbrake light and looks like an engine.  The bulb may have blown (or been removed) so best to check that too.  

[BigCat]

I did my handbrake recently, and all I had to do was adjust the shoes within the drum of the rear discs. It does necessitate removal of the wheels, but with the discs still on. Vaux/Opel have kept it the same as a drum rear brake system, using a special drum brake adjusting tool (in my case - a good small flat blade screwdriver).

There is a post somewhere about adjusting the cable, but apart from being a very awkward job, it should only be done after the shoes have been correctly adjusted.

[TheBoy]

The handb rake should be adjusted via the adjuster behind heatshield. See Maintenence section. Should not be done at wheels!

[Chopsdad]

The handb rake should be adjusted via the adjuster behind heatshield. See Maintenence section. Should not be done at wheels!

Quote from familyman (MOT Tester)

Re: Brake Pedal Creep
Reply #54 - 11. Jan 2007 at 20:22    Just a note. handbrake percentage has dropped from older cars to 16% due to split circuit braking. VOSA feel that the chances of both circuits failing on a modern car is very very small
point being that handbrakes don't have to stop the car any more just basically hold it on an incline to stop it rolling once the car has come to a stop.
Not to say that your handbrake shouldn't be able to stop but i would expect to see at least 30% of weight of car as your efficeincy.
What i've found normally gives a poor handbrake is continual adjustment of the cable to reduce slack.
Correct proceedure with drum style handbrake is to fully slacken cable/s adjust shoes up to just touch drum (don't rely on self adjusters working) back of a 1/4 of a turn then adjust cable/s to achieve correct h/brake cable. On rear disc models with h/brake shoes inside the drum of the disc relatively easy through hole in disc(with wheel removed!) with drum brake rears bit of a pain to keep taking drum off and on but a good time to check shoes and lip on drum for wear. not sure on 'meega's if there all disc any way.    
    
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[Chopsdad]

See http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152564750 for how2 guide with pics

[Tony]

Hi Guys

Thanks for all the replies.

I have just adjusted the handbreak via the hole in the disk hub, poking a screw driver in the hole and turning the adjuster wheel. The handbreak comes up about 5 or 6 clicks now.

As for the idle, it might be too early to say, but i checked all the little hoses i could, and one of them did not seem to be on too well, so i pushed it all the way home and have just took the car out for a 10k run and it was fine, so i will have to see how it goes.

Thanks again

Tony

[Tony]

Hi All

The idel speed seems to be ok now

Thanks for all your input.

Tony

[Marks DTM Calib]

Your handbrake is

a) Not going to last
b) Not going ot be effective
c) Will seize!

You need to slacken the cable before adjusting the shoes....if you dont then the cable travel is not sufficient to keep it operating correctly....