Topic: First go at adjusting camber (Read 4031 times)

Webby the Bear · « **on:** 18 October 2016, 19:51:20 »

Evening gents.

Ain't been about for a while. Works been carnage.

Anyways I got the old boy on the aligner today. Below is the report afterwards.

This ain't that easy to do. It needs two people in my opinion. Not having adjusted camber on any car before I slackened the strut bolts and the nsf wheel moved out to 3 degrees negative camber lol got a big bar in between the shock and the wheel and locked it off at 1o 10. Did the same for the other side. However after adjusting the toe it changed. However it is better than it was before.

now I know what to expect I may go back and adjust it.

One weird thing that maybe someone can throw some light on.....

I took wheels off before aligning so I could get strut bolts loose. I noticed that the

I've driven it up to speed and it seems a lot more stable than before. Next is the rears.

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #1 on:** 18 October 2016, 19:52:11 »

I didn't finish sentence above, give me a sec.....

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #2 on:** 18 October 2016, 19:55:26 »

So weird thing.....

I took the wheels off to free up the strut bolts with ease.

I noticed that the hub was as far forward as it would go (i.e. The only adjustment was to push it back and add to the negative camber). However with the wheels back on and during the alignment process I could get lots of movement negative or positive as I liked. Bizarre $:-\$

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #3 on:** 18 October 2016, 20:25:15 »

Leverage

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #4 on:** 18 October 2016, 20:37:37 »

Yeah but the strut bolt wouldn't allow any more positive movement.

Well, you must be right cos it moved. But just weird

Nick W · « **Reply #5 on:** 18 October 2016, 20:41:52 »

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 18 October 2016, 20:25:15

Leverage

And weight on the wheels means the hub pivots around the bottom bolt.
It is easier with 2 people; one to hold the wheel in place and watch the reading, and the other underneath with a spanner and ratchet to tighten the bolts. It is worth removing the wheel afterwards to ensure you've tightened them enough.

EMD · « **Reply #6 on:** 18 October 2016, 20:46:39 »

Operator " A Moron "

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #7 on:** 18 October 2016, 20:51:58 »

Quote from: EMD on 18 October 2016, 20:46:39

Operator " A Moron "

Thought you'd like that

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #8 on:** 18 October 2016, 20:55:49 »

Quote from: Nick W on 18 October 2016, 20:41:52

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 18 October 2016, 20:25:15
Leverage

And weight on the wheels means the hub pivots around the bottom bolt.
It is easier with 2 people; one to hold the wheel in place and watch the reading, and the other underneath with a spanner and ratchet to tighten the bolts. It is worth removing the wheel afterwards to ensure you've tightened them enough.

Aha! There is the answer. I thought the elongated hole was just at the top. But that must not be the case

It's interesting how you make adjustments and then I lock it all off and ten move the steering a few times and it's out. Adjust it again and lock it off again and it's all good. Weirdness

Mr Gav · « **Reply #9 on:** 18 October 2016, 22:17:01 »

Quote from: Webby the Bear on 18 October 2016, 20:55:49

Quote from: Nick W on 18 October 2016, 20:41:52
Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 18 October 2016, 20:25:15
Leverage

And weight on the wheels means the hub pivots around the bottom bolt.
It is easier with 2 people; one to hold the wheel in place and watch the reading, and the other underneath with a spanner and ratchet to tighten the bolts. It is worth removing the wheel afterwards to ensure you've tightened them enough.

Aha! There is the answer. I thought the elongated hole was just at the top. But that must not be the case

It's interesting how you make adjustments and then I lock it all off and ten move the steering a few times and it's out. Adjust it again and lock it off again and it's all good. Weirdness

It is, round hole at the bottom and elongated at the top

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #10 on:** 19 October 2016, 07:19:38 »

Then I'm officially confused

oh well it's done. If it still acts up I'll adjust even more but first drive seemed good

aaronjb · « **Reply #11 on:** 19 October 2016, 08:50:09 »

Excellent, keep practicing and eventually I'll know where I can come and dump the BMW to be sorted out

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #12 on:** 19 October 2016, 09:16:09 »

Do you have one of these at the garage:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-PDR-Air-Pump-Wedge-Inflatable-Hand-Pump-Auto-Entry-Tools-F-Car-Door-Window-/182290455618?hash=item2a715b9c42:g:yGgAAOSwZG9WlpSt

If you insert one between the top of the wheel rim and strut you can set the camber on your own and its mega easy to adjust with fine control.

Lazydocker · « **Reply #13 on:** 19 October 2016, 10:04:45 »

Quote from: Marks DTM Calib on 19 October 2016, 09:16:09

Do you have one of these at the garage:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-PDR-Air-Pump-Wedge-Inflatable-Hand-Pump-Auto-Entry-Tools-F-Car-Door-Window-/182290455618?hash=item2a715b9c42:g:yGgAAOSwZG9WlpSt

If you insert one between the top of the wheel rim and strut you can set the camber on your own and its mega easy to adjust with fine control.

I've got one in my lock out kit

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #14 on:** 19 October 2016, 18:25:48 »

Assuming that actually works and you're not joking..... that looks awesome! I could see that coming in handy (no pun) for me with various things at work!

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #15 on:** 19 October 2016, 18:27:20 »

So regarding the settings I've set them at....... do you think I need to go in and redo it closer to 1.10?

Initial motorway runs seem to be really stable.

Nick W · « **Reply #16 on:** 19 October 2016, 18:35:31 »

Quote from: Marks DTM Calib on 19 October 2016, 09:16:09

Do you have one of these at the garage:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-PDR-Air-Pump-Wedge-Inflatable-Hand-Pump-Auto-Entry-Tools-F-Car-Door-Window-/182290455618?hash=item2a715b9c42:g:yGgAAOSwZG9WlpSt

If you insert one between the top of the wheel rim and strut you can set the camber on your own and its mega easy to adjust with fine control.

Damn, I wish I had thought of that. I've already got a couple.

Why didn't you post that two weeks ago before I fitted some new struts?

terry paget · « **Reply #17 on:** 19 October 2016, 20:39:36 »

As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

Entwood · « **Reply #18 on:** 19 October 2016, 20:56:27 »

Quote from: terry paget on 19 October 2016, 20:39:36

As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

Not quite a "different setting" .. the measurements are taken with the suspension fully loaded, resting on the ramps. Any "error" is then logged.. as the car is then raised the computor follows the travel and "knows" where it should be to correct the error. The operative makes the corrections as dictated by the system and when the vehicle is lowered back down the "right" correction should have been applied. That is what I have observed on visiting WIM, and it has always worked a treat.

Nick W · « **Reply #19 on:** 19 October 2016, 21:05:28 »

Quote from: terry paget on 19 October 2016, 20:39:36

As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

Not a different method of adjusting the camber, but I was hoping to have a fairly straightfoward means of simultaneously measuring it and the toe. That's mainly because large adjustments affect both settings. The plan was was to use very basic equipment - a £20 laser and some simple machining - to achieve the necessary accuracy. I've been busier with other things recently, so it's on the back burner.

As you're aiming for -1 degree 15 minutes at ride height it makes more sense to me to measure and adjust the camber with the car on its wheels. Easier too.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #20 on:** 19 October 2016, 22:28:01 »

Quote from: Entwood on 19 October 2016, 20:56:27

Quote from: terry paget on 19 October 2016, 20:39:36
As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

Not quite a "different setting" .. the measurements are taken with the suspension fully loaded, resting on the ramps. Any "error" is then logged.. as the car is then raised the computor follows the travel and "knows" where it should be to correct the error. The operative makes the corrections as dictated by the system and when the vehicle is lowered back down the "right" correction should have been applied. That is what I have observed on visiting WIM, and it has always worked a treat.

Exactly

Shackeng · « **Reply #21 on:** 19 October 2016, 22:40:24 »

Somewhere I went put pax weights in the front when setting. Can't remember where. $:-\$

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #22 on:** 19 October 2016, 22:41:47 »

Just to clarify I adjusted mine on the four poster with wheels on the deck. The only thing I did was loosen shock bolts with wheels off for ease of access.

Now I know what I'm in for id do it in situ as it's easy to get to with it up in the air.

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #23 on:** 20 October 2016, 08:26:19 »

Yes the inflatable bag method works really well

aaronjb · « **Reply #24 on:** 20 October 2016, 08:34:46 »

Quote from: Webby the Bear on 19 October 2016, 18:27:20

So regarding the settings I've set them at....... do you think I need to go in and redo it closer to 1.10?

Just keep an eye on inside edge tyre wear, IMHO. I'd be fine with 1º30'..

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #25 on:** 20 October 2016, 19:01:29 »

Cheers mark, cheers Aaron.

I doubt I'll get tyre wear cos I got cheap bct's on at the mo and they're hard as nails 😂

But seriously it wasn't really about the wear but about the way it tracks down the road. It seems really nice to drive now. I'll give the rears a go too. Would be nice to aid tyre wear at the back also. But it's about time too. At the moment I have none 😩

tidla · « **Reply #26 on:** 20 October 2016, 22:59:34 »

Ratchet strap or similar thru the wheel spoke attached to something substantial is another way of adjusting the camber with the weight of the vehicle pressing down.
Them air wedges look useful .

News:

Author Topic: First go at adjusting camber (Read 4031 times)

aaronjb

aaronjb