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[Webby the Bear]

So regarding the settings I've set them at....... do you think I need to go in and redo it closer to 1.10?

Initial motorway runs seem to be really stable.

[Nick W]

Do you have one of these at the garage:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-PDR-Air-Pump-Wedge-Inflatable-Hand-Pump-Auto-Entry-Tools-F-Car-Door-Window-/182290455618?hash=item2a715b9c42:g:yGgAAOSwZG9WlpSt

If you insert one between the top of the wheel rim and strut you can set the camber on your own and its mega easy to adjust with fine control.

Damn, I wish I had thought of that. I've already got a couple.


Why didn't you post that two weeks ago before I fitted some new struts? 

[terry paget]

As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

[Entwood]

As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

Not quite a "different setting" .. the measurements are taken with the suspension fully loaded, resting on the ramps. Any "error" is then logged.. as the car is then raised the computor follows the travel and "knows" where it should be to correct the error. The operative makes the corrections as dictated by the system and when the vehicle is lowered back down the "right" correction should have been applied. That is what I have observed on visiting WIM, and it has always worked a treat.

[Nick W]

As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

Not a different method of adjusting the camber, but I was hoping to have a fairly straightfoward means of simultaneously measuring it and the toe. That's mainly because large adjustments affect both settings. The plan was was to use very basic equipment - a £20 laser and some simple machining - to achieve the necessary accuracy. I've been busier with other things recently, so it's on the back burner.


As you're aiming for -1 degree 15 minutes at ride height it makes more sense to me to measure and adjust the camber with the car on its wheels. Easier too.

[Doctor Gollum]

As discussed before, it is essential that the front suspension is normally loaded when camber is set. I support the outer wishbone ends on axle stands, remove the wheels, attach an inclinometer to the hub, and set the camber to 1.1 degrees. Some members do not approve this method. Doc Gollum tells me Wheels in Motion do it with front wheels suspended, using a different setting. Nick W was devising yet another method.

Not quite a "different setting" .. the measurements are taken with the suspension fully loaded, resting on the ramps. Any "error" is then logged.. as the car is then raised the computor follows the travel and "knows" where it should be to correct the error. The operative makes the corrections as dictated by the system and when the vehicle is lowered back down the "right" correction should have been applied. That is what I have observed on visiting WIM, and it has always worked a treat.

Exactly 

[Shackeng]

Somewhere I went put pax weights in the front when setting. Can't remember where.

[Webby the Bear]

Just to clarify I adjusted mine on the four poster with wheels on the deck. The only thing I did was loosen shock bolts with wheels off for ease of access.

Now I know what I'm in for id do it in situ as it's easy to get to with it up in the air.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yes the inflatable bag method works really well 

[aaronjb]

So regarding the settings I've set them at....... do you think I need to go in and redo it closer to 1.10?

Just keep an eye on inside edge tyre wear, IMHO. I'd be fine with 1º30'..

[Webby the Bear]

Cheers mark, cheers Aaron.

I doubt I'll get tyre wear cos I got cheap bct's on at the mo and they're hard as nails 😂

But seriously it wasn't really about the wear but about the way it tracks down the road. It seems really nice to drive now. I'll give the rears a go too. Would be nice to aid tyre wear at the back also. But it's about time too. At the moment I have none 😩

[tidla]

Ratchet strap or similar thru the wheel spoke attached to something substantial is another way of adjusting the camber with the weight of the vehicle pressing down.
Them air wedges look useful .