196
Omega General Help / Re: Diff Refurb/Removal
« on: 23 April 2022, 06:41:39 »
There's a big engineering shop in Glasgow that do anything and everything, I'm sure they'd be able to do change a seal and bearings in a diff.
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197
Omega General Help / Re: Diff Refurb/Removal
« on: 22 April 2022, 16:27:24 »The Diff weighs more that Vanessa Feltz so watch your self when dropping it out !!
Just drop it on my belly, be like a kid jumping on a trampoline!
198
Omega General Help / Re: Diff Refurb/Removal
« on: 22 April 2022, 16:26:05 »You're unlikely to get the preload correct when you rebuild it, so it makes sense to get it done by a dedicated place.
A starting point would be to actually put some fluid in it.
It's got a top up recently, had a fight getting the filler plug out had to grind down a allen key socket to fit. Yeah I'm not confident doing it myself, especially lying in my back underneath it, plus I've not got the torque to tighten it up again, think it was a high torque if I remember rightly.
199
Omega General Help / Diff Refurb/Removal
« on: 22 April 2022, 05:05:19 »
Hi All
When I was out last night I was sure I could hear the diff a bit more than I usually do, I do have selective hearing so it may be that (!). It's not at the stage yet that you always heard the car coming before you seen it, like the carltons were famous for.
The diff pinion is leaking and I was thinking rather than try and do that myself, a job I've never done, and I don't have proper ramps (to give me the leverage length for purchase to remove the pinion nut), I was thinking wouldn't it be easier to just drop the diff out and send it to a machine shop to get new bearings and seals, is it easy enough to remove or is it a subframe out jobby?
Imagine with the continual low oil level that the bearings are probably worth replacing anyway.
Cheers
G
When I was out last night I was sure I could hear the diff a bit more than I usually do, I do have selective hearing so it may be that (!). It's not at the stage yet that you always heard the car coming before you seen it, like the carltons were famous for.
The diff pinion is leaking and I was thinking rather than try and do that myself, a job I've never done, and I don't have proper ramps (to give me the leverage length for purchase to remove the pinion nut), I was thinking wouldn't it be easier to just drop the diff out and send it to a machine shop to get new bearings and seals, is it easy enough to remove or is it a subframe out jobby?
Imagine with the continual low oil level that the bearings are probably worth replacing anyway.
Cheers
G
200
Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 Running lumpy.
« on: 19 April 2022, 21:12:05 »Why do you need to unplug the injectors
You don't even need to undo the fuel lines.
If it has been disturbed, has the vacuum pipe to the brake servo been checked for leaks at either end?
Was thinking of the cam cover gasket process, but it wouldn't go that far now that I think on it.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90542.0
201
General Car Chat / Re: ACTUAL IMPORTANT ADVICE
« on: 18 April 2022, 17:10:06 »
Usually use Tyrolit cutting discs after a few of those cheapy ones popped on me. Yes I was wearing safety gogglies but was just wondering if a part of it had impaled itself in my jugular!
202
Omega Gallery / Re: Just Bought an Elite
« on: 18 April 2022, 10:23:42 »
The N/S track arm is now replaced. I've also started cleaning the headlights with wet & dry working up the grits 800 > 3000. Decided to take the rear wheels off and check everything around and underneath there, and give all the nuts and bolts a scoosh of WD. While I had the wheels off I squeezed the rear caliper pistons bak to check they weren't seizing.
When I had the rears off I released the handbrake and put in N so I could rotate rear wheels. Just a note when you remove the block of wood from the front wheel make sure you're back in P and handbrake on! My driveway has a slight incline near the end of it, so my other omega was sitting down this incline, and the elite at the top of it, just on the edge.
When I pulled the block out I forgot about handbrake so as I was kicking it back with my feet it was getting caught again every time, not realising the car was inching forward slowly onto the block again. Once I'd completely removed the block, I'd walked away to do something else, and the elite rolled forward but luckily I had my open toolbox about a foot in front of it, which stopped it about 2 inches from the bumper of the CD!
Even if it had hit the CD there wasn't any serious distance (4 feet maybe) to gather speed and the incline is mild (probably a few percent) so would probably have just bounced off it.
When I had the rears off I released the handbrake and put in N so I could rotate rear wheels. Just a note when you remove the block of wood from the front wheel make sure you're back in P and handbrake on! My driveway has a slight incline near the end of it, so my other omega was sitting down this incline, and the elite at the top of it, just on the edge.
When I pulled the block out I forgot about handbrake so as I was kicking it back with my feet it was getting caught again every time, not realising the car was inching forward slowly onto the block again. Once I'd completely removed the block, I'd walked away to do something else, and the elite rolled forward but luckily I had my open toolbox about a foot in front of it, which stopped it about 2 inches from the bumper of the CD!
Even if it had hit the CD there wasn't any serious distance (4 feet maybe) to gather speed and the incline is mild (probably a few percent) so would probably have just bounced off it.
203
Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 Running lumpy.
« on: 18 April 2022, 10:13:57 »Ok chaps, I will start with the Coils and Plugs. Never done these on a 3.2 ( only a 96 2.5 CD), is it quite straightforward ?, but I expect it to be a bit fiddly.
Good guide for it all here:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90545.0
Plus something to watch when removing coil packs:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90670.0
Another tip, for the injector rail electric plugs I use parrot grips to push the springs in to pull the connectors off, as they are painful to try and remove with your own fingertips.
P.S remember to remove plenum chamber thingy connecter at top right of plenum, as I pulled my plenum back with it still connected and broke it.
204
Omega Gallery / Re: Just Bought an Elite
« on: 10 April 2022, 15:26:02 »
That's the NSF wheen bearing done, very easy job, except of course tightening to 320NM? My torque bar only goes to 200, so I waited until my elbow clicked and took that as the correct torque!
While that was off I took of the little dust shield and gave it scrape to get the flakes of rust off of it, and to satisfy myself the little torx would loosen tip, give the torx head a medium bash with the head of a hammer then hammer the torx socket in it, first action flattens the head in a bit so the socket fits snug, also loosens the rust and breaks any seized up bolts. No point doing it up or painting it as it's porous on some of the edges so will need new ones eventually.
Next job was remove the OS track arm. I didn't even try to loosen the old one's adjusters as they are always mega seized, just replaced the whole thing as the outside track rod had play, and the back one felt a bit loose too. Few strikes of a 1 pound mallet got the outside one to pop but the inner one was a complete bar steward, so I got out the ball joint splitter and let that take the strain.
Done the measure up thingy with the old arm then put the new one on (After slabbering the new threads with copper slip) and torque'd up to 74 Lb Ft on outside joint, I'd seen another suggestion, from Haynes that the inner one is 25 Lb Ft but that's way too loose for my liking, so done it to about 50 Lb Ft.
Still got the NS track arm to replace, plus remove both wishbones and replace the longitudinal bushes with polys, and the other ones with new GM bushes, then get tracking done. Probably should go for new ball joints this time, never done on my CD so probably worthwhile since I'm in there with everything off (the car, not me!)
While that was off I took of the little dust shield and gave it scrape to get the flakes of rust off of it, and to satisfy myself the little torx would loosen tip, give the torx head a medium bash with the head of a hammer then hammer the torx socket in it, first action flattens the head in a bit so the socket fits snug, also loosens the rust and breaks any seized up bolts. No point doing it up or painting it as it's porous on some of the edges so will need new ones eventually.
Next job was remove the OS track arm. I didn't even try to loosen the old one's adjusters as they are always mega seized, just replaced the whole thing as the outside track rod had play, and the back one felt a bit loose too. Few strikes of a 1 pound mallet got the outside one to pop but the inner one was a complete bar steward, so I got out the ball joint splitter and let that take the strain.
Done the measure up thingy with the old arm then put the new one on (After slabbering the new threads with copper slip) and torque'd up to 74 Lb Ft on outside joint, I'd seen another suggestion, from Haynes that the inner one is 25 Lb Ft but that's way too loose for my liking, so done it to about 50 Lb Ft.
Still got the NS track arm to replace, plus remove both wishbones and replace the longitudinal bushes with polys, and the other ones with new GM bushes, then get tracking done. Probably should go for new ball joints this time, never done on my CD so probably worthwhile since I'm in there with everything off (the car, not me!)
205
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 21:06:41 »Magnetic tipped screwdriver
All my old screwdrivers tips have lost any magnetism they had... just reverted to the ole grease it up technique
206
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 18:36:36 »
That screw that goes in the door handle - pure mare! 
207
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 18:02:40 »
Got 9 on this one, panic over went to maintenance guides and changed the mirror over - job jobbed!
208
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 17:50:23 »
Just recently bought a silver door mirror to replace the one on my elite 02 plate. The mirror casing was ok, it was the mirror itself was shot, and I thought easier just to swap with one with the proper blind spot bend in it.
Took mirror off and noticed the spare one only had five terminals in the little plug, the original has looks like all of them in use - nine of them. The replacement mirror has a little icon showing it is heated so I thought maybe that was what was missing originally.
The part number on the back of both mirror alloy mounts is: 08155463
I can't seem to find that number on the vx part catalogs
Anyone know what the difference is with the wiring since part numbers look the same?
Just wondering if the wiring was changed at some point and maybe they'd redesigned it, but it's got all the same functions.
Thanks
G
Took mirror off and noticed the spare one only had five terminals in the little plug, the original has looks like all of them in use - nine of them. The replacement mirror has a little icon showing it is heated so I thought maybe that was what was missing originally.
The part number on the back of both mirror alloy mounts is: 08155463
I can't seem to find that number on the vx part catalogs
Anyone know what the difference is with the wiring since part numbers look the same?
Just wondering if the wiring was changed at some point and maybe they'd redesigned it, but it's got all the same functions.
Thanks
G
209
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: A/C Filler Valve
« on: 15 March 2022, 18:21:34 »That's LP,, so get a tyre core, the short type and use that., The one near rads is HP.
Got a removal tool for the tyre shrader valves so will remove the duff valve and replace cheers
210
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: A/C Filler Valve
« on: 14 March 2022, 19:10:23 »
The one next to the oil filler cap. Is that LP since it looks like a fatter line than the one down in front?