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[Thingymabob]

I am replacing my Xenon headlights and have found out that the front level sensor is broken and needs to be replaced. The original part number is 9117094 but has apparently been replaced with 93197514.
My local GM workshop tells me that this number has also been replaced with 93197245 (front) and 93197514 (rear).
However, the prices are horrendous so I will not buy from them...
--> Are there any tips on where to get a sensor, new or used, at a reasonable price and which article number(s) I can use?

When I try to adjust the new headlights in height, it seems that the electrical motor is positioned in some kind of end position and the light beam is pointing downward, just in front of the car.
--> Is it possible to run these electrical motors, without a working sensor, to get the light beam up? I also wonder if I will need TECH2 in order to do the adjustment?

All tips are welcome

[biggriffin]

Some Vectra C had a similar set up, might be able to modify.

[BazaJT]

Broken in what way? I understand the arm can separate at the joint with some owners re-seating the arm and holding it in place with cable ties.You could try an advert in the wanted section on here[there are one or two Omega breakers on here] and second hand ones do sometimes crop up on the likes of e-bay.

[Thingymabob]

The arm that goes into the sensor housing has come loose (totally separated), not yet sure if the electrical function of the sensor is ok.
A big headache now is how operate the electric motor in the headlight, which is in the lower position, without a functioning sensor

Thanks for the tip about Vectra C, biggriffin.

[Jan Suhr]

That is common that the arm get loose from the sensor. It is almost always the front sensor that have this problem.

I could hold it in place with rubber bands (since you're from Sweden you know the wide brown ones that Posten use) works well. They will eventually break but just put new ones in. When the arm is out of the sensor you will get an error message on the display.

If the headlights are pointing down that means that the motors are working, they will default to the low position when the level sensor is bad.

[Nick W]

A permanent fix is a better, preferably new, level sensor on the wishbone. They are expensive new, and easily damaged so good used ones aren't easy to find.


Clamping the arm back onto the balljoint with some sort of external clip or wire is sometimes effective, and is always worth a try. New small balljoints and links aren't difficult to find, your local model shop will have them for R/C linkages.


You could power the motors to a central position, disconnect them, and manually adjust the headlight aim from there. That will lose the auto adjust, which may be important to you.

[Thingymabob]

Thanks a lot for your valuable and useful input, Jan Suhr and Nick W.

It is on the front sensor that the arm has come loose from the sensor housing.
When the arm is detached I get the error message, just as described, and when it is pushed back into the sensor, the error message disappears.

I will now try to find out if the arm needs some kind of support to stay in place and if this proves necessary, I will keep all your suggestions in mind and see if I choose the "rubber band way" (from Posten!) or a more permanent solution with an external clip or bracket.

I´ll keep you updated on the progress.

[Jan Suhr]

Thanks a lot for your valuable and useful input, Jan Suhr and Nick W.

It is on the front sensor that the arm has come loose from the sensor housing.
When the arm is detached I get the error message, just as described, and when it is pushed back into the sensor, the error message disappears.

I will now try to find out if the arm needs some kind of support to stay in place and if this proves necessary, I will keep all your suggestions in mind and see if I choose the "rubber band way" (from Posten!) or a more permanent solution with an external clip or bracket.

I´ll keep you updated on the progress.

 

[Thingymabob]

The level sensors and the rest of the auto levelling parts are now in place and seems to be working fine, including the front sensor in which the arm so far remains seated  (without any external support).

Both headlights are mounted and the next step is to adjust the height of the light beam, which is now my new problem...
The car is at my local "one man repair shop" and he has a Tech2 which makes everything a lot easier.
However, when the adjustment motor is operated (using Tech2) and stops at the end position, the light beam is still pointing far too low although the manual height adjustment screw is screwed to its max up end position (this applies to both headlights).
Since the adjustment motor is placed at the bottom of the headlight, the rod coming out from the motor is pushing the lower part of the insert forward which then makes it point upwards.
As I see it, it can be due to two things that the light beam does not go far enough up:
1. The stroke of the adjuster motor is not long enough (defective? some owner before me has mounted the wrong motors?...)
2. The light insert cannot move any further inside the headlight due to some kind of physical stop (manufacturing defect?)

Next week we will unmount the headlights and try to find out the reason why we cannot get the light beam further up.
In the meantime, does anyone have experience of this problem and if it may be caused of adjustment motors not moving out far enough of if there is som kind of limitation inside the headlights? I should mention that the headlights are not original but made by Depo.

[Doctor Gollum]

Broken adjusters within the headlight units.

Trying to force the adjustment won't help, or work.

Replace either the manual adjusters (two in each unit) or the headlamp assemblies and report back 

To be clear, the manual adjustment sets the beam position, the motor simply raises or lowers the beam to suit the vehicle height. The self levelling function of the motors isn't designed to, and physically cannot, position the lights in any other way. 

[Nick W]

As above, a very common problem.
It's easily checked: remove the bulb cover, and waggle the reflector with your finger. If it moves, you need new adjusters.
There's a guide for this.

[Thingymabob]

As above, a very common problem.
It's easily checked: remove the bulb cover, and waggle the reflector with your finger. If it moves, you need new adjusters.
There's a guide for this.

I really hope the adjusters are ok because the headlights are brand new out of the box.

[Doctor Gollum]

As above, a very common problem.
It's easily checked: remove the bulb cover, and waggle the reflector with your finger. If it moves, you need new adjusters.
There's a guide for this.

I really hope the adjusters are ok because the headlights are brand new out of the box.

In which case, have the travel locks been removed? Various metal bars and cable ties iirc...

[Thingymabob]

As above, a very common problem.
It's easily checked: remove the bulb cover, and waggle the reflector with your finger. If it moves, you need new adjusters.
There's a guide for this.

I really hope the adjusters are ok because the headlights are brand new out of the box.

In which case, have the travel locks been removed? Various metal bars and cable ties iirc...

Thanks, very good question, will definitely check this with the mechanic on Monday. It would be both nice and embarrassing if missed travel locks prove to be the problem ...

[biggriffin]

As above, a very common problem.
It's easily checked: remove the bulb cover, and waggle the reflector with your finger. If it moves, you need new adjusters.
There's a guide for this.

I really hope the adjusters are ok because the headlights are brand new out of the box.

In which case, have the travel locks been removed? Various metal bars and cable ties iirc...

Never had those on any of the new ones ive fitted, hence why so many were returned to dealer/supplier with broken adjusters, Hella started to pack them with foam inserts.