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[JamesV6CDX]

I can't find the Key for my 3.2 ANYWHERE. And I only have one.

I'm going to quit looking today, as I'm pee'd off with it, and will have another search tomorrow. If that turns up nothing, I'm going to need a new ECU, Key, immobiliser receiver, and full ignition barrel assembly (the one that's held on with the two shear bolts.

If anyone has anything, I'd be grateful - if I can't find the key by the end of tomorrow, I'll buy it off you. Pointless looking for hours and hours for an hours work 

PS - door lock not essential. I have one, with a key that fits it, so if you don't have one - I can get by. I just need to get the thing started and moved before my Christmas visitors arrive!

[Nick W]

Why make it difficult?
Find a decent automotive locksmith, and get them to cut a new key to your car's code.
Quick, easy and cheap.

[Nick W]

Why make it difficult?
Find a decent automotive locksmith, and get them to cut a new key to your car's code.
Quick, easy and cheap.

I've just reread your post, does the key you have for the door work the ignition lock? In which case, you just need the car coded to a new remote and chip, which is a while you wait job.

[JamesV6CDX]

Why make it difficult?
Find a decent automotive locksmith, and get them to cut a new key to your car's code.
Quick, easy and cheap.

Sadly it's not that simple

The car being ex plod has had immobilisor issues in the past, so I would say with confidence that any codes on the carpass etc etc will be null and void. I know it's had a different ECU etc in the past, so all of these parts are an unknown quantity.

I feel it's safer, for an hours work, just to fit a new ECU and barrel...

[Nick W]

Why make it difficult?
Find a decent automotive locksmith, and get them to cut a new key to your car's code.
Quick, easy and cheap.

Sadly it's not that simple

The car being ex plod has had immobilisor issues in the past, so I would say with confidence that any codes on the carpass etc etc will be null and void. I know it's had a different ECU etc in the past, so all of these parts are an unknown quantity.

I feel it's safer, for an hours work, just to fit a new ECU and barrel...

someone who knows what they're doing won't need the car pass. The firm I would use charge a tenner extra for coding if it isn't available. And it's still while you wait.

[JamesV6CDX]

Why make it difficult?
Find a decent automotive locksmith, and get them to cut a new key to your car's code.
Quick, easy and cheap.

Sadly it's not that simple

The car being ex plod has had immobilisor issues in the past, so I would say with confidence that any codes on the carpass etc etc will be null and void. I know it's had a different ECU etc in the past, so all of these parts are an unknown quantity.

I feel it's safer, for an hours work, just to fit a new ECU and barrel...

someone who knows what they're doing won't need the car pass. The firm I would use charge a tenner extra for coding if it isn't available. And it's still while you wait.

Interesting. What are you suggesting, that I remove the barrel, and take it to a locksmith along with the ECU etc?

[Nick W]

That implies that you do have a key for the barrel as you'll struggle to remove it without.
In which case, your recovery service should  move the car to whoever you choose as they will want it complete. I've done loads like that, as well as locked cars with no keys, but that costs extra.

[JamesV6CDX]

That implies that you do have a key for the barrel as you'll struggle to remove it without.
In which case, your recovery service should  move the car to whoever you choose as they will want it complete. I've done loads like that, as well as locked cars with no keys, but that costs extra.

No, I don't have any key for the barrel. I'd have to drill the heads of the shear bolts to remove the entire assembly....
.
Getting it recovered, paying labour etc, seems like a real ballache.

If someone had an ECU, Key, Barrel and receiver, for I'm guessing not much money, I could have it running inside of an hour....

[Nick W]

We've obviously got different ideas of the ballache involved  
And you did say you were time limited, so getting it done on Monday(for instance) would be worth something to me.


I don't drill out shear bolts, but weld an ordinary one to them then loosen with a normal spanner.

[JamesV6CDX]

Cancel cancel - I've found the key 

It was in my diagnostic box with multimeter, compression tester, etc. I haven't got a frigging clue how it got in there. I must have through it was a "safe place".

Only found it by chance when looking for stuff to diagnose neighbours Vectra next week!!!

Cheers chaps

[Doctor Gollum]

The door lock and ignition barrel were replaced as a working set

Did it run that badly with a 2.6 ecu?

[Doctor Gollum]

The door lock and ignition barrel were replaced as a working set

Did it run that badly with a 2.6 ecu?

That's to say they were purchased by me to solve the missing chip/mismatched locket issue.

The broken wire at the transponder ring was on me, but the car was running once I had fitted the above lock/ecu set. I was unable to effect a permanent repair to the one broken wire as Josh has failed to respond to Any communication since early September. Almost certainly because he is unable to deliver something that was promised late last year

Still, if you want to replace the whole gubbins for the sake of a minutes of soldering then that's upto you

[JamesV6CDX]

I think I may have given the wrong impression - the car runs great. Real great. Always has!

I got it running fine by fitting a new connector to the immobiliser unit under the ignition. After that, it never failed to start. The misfire was a loose connection on the 246 coil pack, which immediately went away when I pushed the connector home.

The key does indeed fit the door also, that was my mistake.

The only reason I was asking for parts was because, I lost the key  cheers though mate

[Doctor Gollum]

No worries 

Also shows that the 2.6 ecu works perfectly well in a 3.2... 

[JamesV6CDX]

No worries 

Also shows that the 2.6 ecu works perfectly well in a 3.2... 

Wouldn't know the difference..!

Come to think of it, same scenario as when I put a 3.2 lump in my old 2.6 - I didn't change any engine management, and it went like a rocket

[Doctor Gollum]

For the record on the key front, the remote is presumed to be original to the car*, the key/chip/locks/ecu are all from an unknown 2.6 auto via ebay.

Might be summat written on the wrapping (with the old ecu etc last I saw).

Alarm/locking ecu and gearbox ecu are also presumed original to the car. *

*Presumed as I never changed them

[zirk]

2.6 in a 3.2 will work and gets you out of trouble (got that T shirt) but it is a different Map, the 3.2 Maps are a bit more aggressive. 

The other problem that can show its head is, If yours is a Ex Plod 3.2 Manual is the Auto ECU in a Manual, that can also cause issues. 

[Doctor Gollum]

2.6 in a 3.2 will work and gets you out of trouble (got that T shirt) but it is a different Map, the 3.2 Maps are a bit more aggressive. 

The other problem that can show its head is, If yours is a Ex Plod 3.2 Manual is the Auto ECU in a Manual, that can also cause issues.

In this case both autos and no mid, so no annoying message

[Lincs Robert]

We've obviously got different ideas of the ballache involved  
And you did say you were time limited, so getting it done on Monday(for instance) would be worth something to me.


I don't drill out shear bolts, but weld an ordinary one to them then loosen with a normal spanner.

The time I did this I used a small and very sharp cold chisel -with a short, sharp shock from sammy sledge! 

[zirk]

2.6 in a 3.2 will work and gets you out of trouble (got that T shirt) but it is a different Map, the 3.2 Maps are a bit more aggressive. 

The other problem that can show its head is, If yours is a Ex Plod 3.2 Manual is the Auto ECU in a Manual, that can also cause issues.

In this case both autos and no mid, so no annoying message

yea, wasnt really thinking about the MID, more along the lines when a 3.2 Manual fitted with a 3.2 Auto ECU, decides to wake up one morning and realises theres no Auto Box fitted, throw a Code and refuses to start, could take days, months or years but seems to decide that sooner or later.   

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

It is possible to reprogram a 3.2 auto ECU to manual, using Tech 2.