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[gbh]

The sun is still out so today i'll be outside trying my best,so with that in mind and not wanting to damage anything.Firstly i should rotate crank with belt still on until the bottom timing mark lines up then apply lock to water pump then its safe to remove the belt without cam locks as they won't fit anyway.Then manually rotate cams into timing position or 2cm to right in my case then apply cam locks fit belt etc. When i remove the belt are the cams going to move and if so do i continue clockwise if they go past the timing mark?

[gbh]

One other thing i put the belt on as per the dvd and the bottom adjuster looks the same as in the dvd and i set it to 3 o clock. How do i know if its adjustable or not ? My cam kit is GM9201887 for a 2.6 v6 est 2001.

[terry paget]

Getting a bit confused here i think, so with the belt on in its current set up turn the crank until its 60 degrees before TDC which is where on a clock face? Where does the crank mark need to be on a clock face and do i lock it or will it just stop there?

About 10 O'Clock. The crank won't go anywhere but the cams have to be locked because the pressure from valve springs will turn the cams with some force.

Hmm - I should have read your words more carefully. I think I had to use a mirror on a stick to see the timing mark on the crank so I guess that must be underneath when the crank is at TDC 

Standing in my pit looking at the crank pulley at TDC it is at 6 o'clock.I turn it anticlockwise to 4 o'clock. This is about 60 degrees BTDC and a point where all pistons are out of harm's way. This allows you to turn all the camshafts without fear of damage to valves.
I appreciate looking from above with mirror and torch things get confusing.

[gbh]

As the belt is ON at the moment should i rotate clockwise until i get to 4 o clock

[Nick W]

The sun is still out so today i'll be outside trying my best,so with that in mind and not wanting to damage anything.Firstly i should rotate crank with belt still on until the bottom timing mark lines up then apply lock to water pump then its safe to remove the belt without cam locks as they won't fit anyway.Then manually rotate cams into timing position or 2cm to right in my case then apply cam locks fit belt etc. When i remove the belt are the cams going to move and if so do i continue clockwise if they go past the timing mark?

No, you need the crank to be at 60degrees before TDC so you can safely turn the cams individually. This means having the crank lock(if fitted) at about 10 o'clock, and the timing mark on the crank about 4 o'clock.


Once you have the cams aligned with the gauge you insert their locks, which is where having a third hand is useful.


The next step is to rotate the crank 60degrees to TDC so that the crank lock engages with the water pump.


Then you fit the cambelt: secure it around the crank pulley using the wedge in the kit; working anti-clockwise you run it past the lower roller pulley; over the nearside cam pulleys(clothes pegs will hold it place if you're nervous); under the centre adjuster - having this free to adjust is helpful; on to cams 1 and 2; then back down past the tensioner.


Then, you adjust the centre adjuster so that the belt is tight between the banks and tighten its Torx bolt. Check that all of the pulleys etc are tight, and remove the locks.


Now you get to rotate the crank 2 full turns, refit the crank lock and use the gauge to see how much you need to adjust everything. As a 2.6 should have a plain pulley rather than a lower adjuster, cams 3 and 4 should still line up. The centre adjuster is then used to bring cams 1and2 into alignment - you don't need to turn it much to gain a noticable adjustment. Tighten the adjuster bolts, remove the locks, and turn it through 2 full turns and check again. This can take 2 or 3 goes to get right; it's the important part of the job. Once all 4 cams lineup everytime, you set the tensioner as shown in the DVD, check again, fit the belt cover and go for a lie down.

[Nick W]

As the belt is ON at the moment should i rotate clockwise until i get to 4 o clock

ALWAYS!

[Andy H]

If the cambelt is more than 2 teeth out then turning the engine over is likely to result in pistons bending valves.

It is probable that your belt wasn't fully engaged in the bottom pulley so when you started turning the crank the teeth on the belt engaged with the teeth on the pulley causing the loss of tension. If this is what happened then your belt will now be one tooth out (but safe to turn over).

Before you do anything else, if you intend turning the engine over, make sure that there is enough tension on the belt to make sure it doesn't skip any teeth.

If the crank is currently at TDC then you don't absolutely need to turn it over. You could wind it back to 60deg BTDC (where it is safe) then pull the belt off and wrestle the cams into their correct position and put the camlocks in.

[gbh]

Well the belt is back on as per instructions,i can confirm that the lower roller is adjustable and there is a bit of slack on that side when compared to tensioned side but putting the belt on anti clockwise was a lot easier. I've set top roller to 12 o clock and lower to 3 o clock if the lower one is set differently it takes up the slack.Any advice before the first revolution?

[Andy H]

The adjustable rollers need to be fitted so that turning them anti-clockwise tightens the belt - if the tension of the belt causes them to move then they will turn clockwise and tend to tighten the centre retaining bolt.

If they are fitted the other way then there is a chance that belt tension could rotate them ant-clockwise and loosen the centre retaining bolt.

[terry paget]

The adjustable rollers need to be fitted so that turning them anti-clockwise tightens the belt - if the tension of the belt causes them to move then they will turn clockwise and tend to tighten the centre retaining bolt.

If they are fitted the other way then there is a chance that belt tension could rotate them ant-clockwise and loosen the centre retaining bolt.

Very good point, Andy, which had not occured to me. I recently realised that the 30mm cranked box spanner discussed recently was for this adjustment. I have not got one, and made do with an open ended spanner, not an elegant solution. I live and learn.

[Nick W]

I recently realised that the 30mm cranked box spanner discussed recently was for this adjustment. I have not got one, and made do with an open ended spanner, not an elegant solution. I live and learn.

I did that as my used locking kit is the cheaper Sealey set without the spanner. Buying one separately is seriously costly. Trying to do a delicate adjustment with a bloody great 30mm spanner is definitely not elegant. Or easy.


I repurposed a scrap 30mm socket to make this:





which cost nothing, and makes the job easy.


Hopefully the OP is now relaxing with a well earned drink and a running car

[gbh]

Things are beginning to look a bit brighter thanks to u all,after 2 rotations it appears to be timed but i'll do it twice more tomorrow to be sure.The dvd is misleading that's for sure and probably needs revision on my very limited experience.Putting the belt on anti clockwise was a much better fit from the start, anyway weather permitting double check timing then put it all back together tomorrow and hope it all works properly.Many many thanks once again Glenn

[terry paget]

I recently realised that the 30mm cranked box spanner discussed recently was for this adjustment. I have not got one, and made do with an open ended spanner, not an elegant solution. I live and learn.

I did that as my used locking kit is the cheaper Sealey set without the spanner. Buying one separately is seriously costly. Trying to do a delicate adjustment with a bloody great 30mm spanner is definitely not elegant. Or easy.


I repurposed a scrap 30mm socket to make this:





which cost nothing, and makes the job easy.


Hopefully the OP is now relaxing with a well earned drink and a running car

I find that my 30mm open ended spanner has a cranked ring on the other end, which just engages with the tensioner pulley end. I shall try that next belt change, unless something better comes along. Pic follows.

[Andy B]

I got my cranked 30mm ring spanner from stores 

[05omegav6]

Getting a bit confused here i think, so with the belt on in its current set up turn the crank until its 60 degrees before TDC which is where on a clock face? Where does the crank mark need to be on a clock face and do i lock it or will it just stop there?

10 o clock as you look at it