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76

Omega General Help / Re: Problem after problem after...

« on: 24 November 2019, 16:53:34 »

Right, test drive.... same as before/worse than ever, if anything!

Took a good while to start, nearly caught several times, I'd say 5-8 seconds. I'll put this down to her being barely run, started several times, switched off moments about 24 hours ago. Made sure I went for a 10min drive just to get things moving again, get the battery back up to normal. Still did the stalling thing, of course 

Oh, MID didn't go black, DG.

So, open fuel cap, rag and match, then.

77

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wtd: PAS Pulley bolts

« on: 24 November 2019, 16:37:59 »

I went for the stainless route on the above mentioned as they were in a 'high corrosion' area, with but only needed to withstand 'low torque' But fair comment you make, yes. 

78

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wtd: PAS Pulley bolts

« on: 24 November 2019, 12:54:19 »

Ill be going stainless at some point in the future. I did for heatshields, and front brake dust shields.

79

Omega General Help / Re: Problem after problem after...

« on: 23 November 2019, 22:26:15 »

Don't recall it doing so, pretty sure it doesn't. Just lights on binnacle like ignition position 'II'. I've sat with engine idling, knocked headlamps on, and the screen goes black momentarily, however, knock lamps off, then repeat and the screen stays fully illuminated, as normal 

Tomorrow after work I'll go on a test drive, car is still on axle stands out front at present, but needs to be back on the road for Monday, see if I can get her to repeat the issue, and double check. 

80

Omega General Help / Re: Problem after problem after...

« on: 23 November 2019, 18:59:48 »

Right chaps, today's daily update.

- God, this might as well turn into a 0-60 thread  -

Turned her over, struggled to start and then... knocked her off after barely 30 seconds running. I then conducted an experiment... I then fired her up again, she started instantly. Engine still stone cold, remember, and with a large volume of charge taken out the battery seconds ago.

I would suggest if the issue is entirely the battery not being charged / poor earth, etc, the engine shouldn't fire up straight away 2nd time. However, if the issue is down to a drained fuel line, then the first laboured start primed it, the second of course was instant, because the fuel line/rail was already primed. That's my opinion, anyway 

The stalling does feel very 'ECU dying' and related to the electric side of things, though I agree.

Went underneath, cleaned the ground lead both ends with wet n dry, gave the block a good clean up, too. I visually examined the connections at the alternator and to be honest they looked fine, grey and dry, no dusty corrosion or anything (though didn't actually undo any as it's so cramped to get at them, I'll admit)

Main wire to starter looked a bit rusty, to be honest. Worth giving that a clean? or is that not affecting anything here?

Finally can anyone confirm there's another ground connection at the rear, behind a panel in the boot. Found a reference by Kevin Wood from years ago, but I couldn't see one anywhere. I thought it worth checking as I recently had a rear end respray and it's not beyond the realms of impossibility that they snapped/removed it during the job. But I can't see one. 

So, more evidence, what do we think? 

81

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wtd: PAS Pulley bolts

« on: 23 November 2019, 18:08:07 »

Your favourite place....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-VECTRA-B-OMEGA-B-SINTRA-PULLEY-TO-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-SCREW-90528953/222589752240?hash=item33d36213b0:g:o9wAAOSwtspdDlAR

In traditional Vauxhall fashion, they come in bags of x 2... 

82

Omega General Help / Re: Coolant Tank only stays half full

« on: 23 November 2019, 17:53:19 »

When mine developed a leak it took ages to find.Turned out there was a crack in the top of the plastic side tank of the radiator and when the system pressurised there was a very fine spray from it that hit the underside of the plastic bit that runs across the car between the headlights.The spray was so fine it dried off without leaving any sign of the leak.

And then there's obscure stuff like this which sometimes you can't ever predict - as Baza says, took ages to find. But me and Baza are OOF Royalty as owners of the Omegas with the most issues and problems in Britain 

83

Omega General Help / Re: Coolant Tank only stays half full

« on: 23 November 2019, 17:51:24 »

There are a few 'likely' areas, however, as I've found recently, as these cars are all around 20 years old, the leak could really be anywhere. The only thing is a failed head gasket is pretty much the last place on the list - some cars it's the first, so pat yourself on the back for choosing a better car 

This list is sort of in likelihood order... sort of. Happy to be disagreed with!

Ok, so the oil cooler plate is a common one, these corrode, however as they're at the very middle of the engine, the coolant evaporates/boils away before you ever get to see any 'drips' anywhere

HBV, this is at the back of the engine, looks like a black starship enterprise, known for failing.

Hoses - quite obvious, but worth looking at the easy to access ones. Just see if you can feel any wet at the joins - some are fairly inaccessible, check the easy ones first!

Water pump, these can leak (Not as  bad a job as it sounds, actually, should/could have been replaced at last timing kit change.

Thermostat o ring/coolant transfer pipe. (worse job than it sounds, still doable for the DIYer, but a lot more of pain to get to than many cars)

Coolant bridge ('joins' the two banks) these can corrode where hoses meet. Necessary to remove this if you are looking at replacing the oil cooler plate, so worth cleaning up as preventative maintenance anyway.

but first port of call may well be... the cap. Yellow header tank cap are often found to have leaky seals, and a tenner could be a cheap fix.

If you want to strip things down there's a 'cold pressure test' than can be done with very simple tools to 100% check for leaks everywhere..   

84

Omega General Help / Re: Problem after problem after...

« on: 23 November 2019, 10:16:37 »

Hmm.. Ie: If rpm doesn't alterbthat proves is in the alternator / charging system? Worth a go. 

85

Omega General Help / Re: Finding part numbers

« on: 22 November 2019, 19:52:52 »

I think Enceladus may have been referring to me re-the "top hat" seals as my son sent me 4 over from the U.S.A.[although I have promised one to DBG]the "o" rings I'd have thought would be available from a decent motor factor[take one in as a pattern]or buy a box full of assorted size "o" rings? Again I have a set of GM "o" rings in my "stash"-whether I'll ever use any of these is open to question-along with the "top hat" seals,all I've got to do now is remember where I've stashed my stash

Cheers Baza, hopefully when we're up for Xmas we'll come via the land of ladyparts, and pick it up. Thanks for remembering me 

86

Omega General Help / Re: Problem after problem after...

« on: 22 November 2019, 18:39:35 »

Worth a check, bearings may be getting on, they're original to the car.

I have told an 'untruth' above in as much as I do technically have an alternator - but it is in bits, in no state to be put on the car - it was its internals which are now in my alternator. Was going to swap the aux pulley for a freshly-greased one, but what with everything it's not really been the priority. I have two aux pulleys, one sits in the boot ready for swapping, I try and swap then annually. 

87

Omega General Help / Re: Finding part numbers

« on: 22 November 2019, 18:22:53 »

oops! ....fair point 

88

Omega General Help / Re: Finding part numbers

« on: 22 November 2019, 17:56:54 »

Most of the seals can be reused. Excepting the camcover gaskets and the o-ring for the bolt holes. Some seals are no longer available so be careful with them. Just clean and reuse. Be particularly careful with the 'tophat' seal part nr. 90467543, that goes under the front end of the breather bridge. These are impossible to get. Although one member has a couple of spares, can't remember who, alas not me.

Crankcase Ventilation

Cylinder Head Covers and Gaskets

Induction Manifold (Contd.) [X25XE[L80],Y26SE[LY9],X30XE[L81],Y32SE[LA3] ENGINES]

I suspect most V6 owners have secret stash they don't admit to 

89

Omega General Help / Re: Problem after problem after...

« on: 22 November 2019, 15:34:30 »

No spare alternators, sadly  The internals (the bit that generally fails) was replaced with one from a stupidly low mileage one, not too long ago, large amount of difference in wear on the 'brush' old vs new. 

90

Omega General Help / Re: Problem after problem after...

« on: 22 November 2019, 13:50:16 »

throretically thats a bit low however its cold weather at the moment and if it spins over fast i wouldnt worry too much about it.
i bet if you disconnected battery overnight it would still be similar voltage in the morning .
its something related to the idling running rather than it cutting out if you were on a motorway at a constant 70 all day long so that should eliminate fuel or many other issues.
same symptoms  as a car with a carburettor having a blocked idling jet .will run forever at any engine speed other than idle.
keep at it !

Thank you!! 


Now the ICV is swapped (was already clean, gave it a wee squirt of light oil just to make sure it was moving nice n free, before fitting) she still started awful. New info...

Idle appreciable struggles (approx 50-75rpm drop) when stationary and engage heated rear window, or even hold a couple of window buttons 'up'. I noticed this because the windows need reprogramming after the battery was disconnected this morning, doesn't normally murmur when I do this, from memory.

Also, on the first run round the block when I stuck headlamps on the MFD went black momentarily - which leads me to think charging issues.

Couldn't get her to stall, however, maybe cured, maybe just lucky... 

At idle, with load (h'lamps, heated seats and heated rear screen) 13.8v I think.

Oh, I see it's now raining. Well, that's good