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[TheBoy]

Discs generally need changing every 2 or 3 pad changes regardless of make. 

Yup.  Not after 2-4 months, which is what I was getting from the patterns...

Fundamentally boils down to pad wear rates. I rarely saw 10k from the front pads, and possibly 15-20 from the rears...

I get probably similar, but change my pads at half worn, else they tend to not cool down sufficiently between roundabouts.  From GM, that was around 2-3 sets of pads a year, and new discs every 2 years, often due to inner edge corrosion rather than approaching wear limit.

The issue I suffered for a couple of years using cheap patterns (before I saw the light and went back to slightly more expensive GM) was disc deformation.  Now, there is a school of thought that if you skim them after you've cooked and deformed them, they will be less prone to such deformation.  But the cost of skimming makes in financially unviable.

[TheBoy]

Rear pads, no comment.  TC hammers the hell out of them.  My rear pads last significantly longer since I stopped using the BP here.

[nellys coupe]

pagid are a decent quailty products,

[VXL V6]

pagid are a decent quailty products,

They used to be a couple of years ago, but sadly recent experience of a few on here has proven their product quality to have gone downhill. 

[Raeturbo]

Had all my front and rear discs and pads from Keithshop.

[TheBoy]

pagid are a decent quailty products,

Not any more. Certainly not the ones ECP supply.

[New POD]

*This might sound dramatic, but if you use solids, the pistons will eventually pass the seals as the pads wear, resulting in catastrophic fluid loss... The result of which will be soiled pants at best and total carnage and fatalities at worst.

That word catastrophic? We never use that word in aerospace. Compromised performance of a DUAL system never results in Death.

anyways up.

I made this mistake.  I looked through the wheel of my Mv6 and saw solid discs. So that's what I bought. 

For reasons of time and working away from home, I gave the job to a mobile mechanic who came highly recommended. He never spotted the gap wasn't right. I'm not convinced totally but I think I'd have noticed, if I'd done the job myself.

Anyway, roll on a few 1000 miles, and I was heading from Derby to Liverpool, the scenic route one summer Thursday evening.  Via Buxton and the Cat and Fiddle.

I noticed that going through the Derbyshire dales the brakes seemed a bit squeeky, and spongy, but luckily I needed fuel, and where better to stop than before going over "The Pass" to Mac 
Stopped at the petrol pump and there's smoke everywhere.  The petrol lady was not phased and suggested If I saw flames, then maybe I might use the fire apparatus. 
The smoke was from the heat generated by the pad that was now trapped and rubbing on the disc and the fluid that was sprayed all around.  Lucky the piston on the other side was some way away from coming out or that would have been somewhat worse.

What fun.  The RAC man suggested that I could have clamped the hose and driven home fine.  I'm hoping he was joking. 2 hours later a transporter arrived. 2 hours after that I was home. 

BTW I struggled to get the right length pins.....The part number often results in the short version being delivered - twice. 

[Doctor Gollum]

I TOLD YOU SO.

Right, that's that out of the way... some mechanic... Might want to find a new one

The part numbers for the supposed correct fitting kit Apec/Mintex etc are misleading. And wrong. Measurements and pics in the guides section.

Choices are limited to: 1. VX. 2. Good second hand. 3. Improvise with stainless split pins of suitable length and diameter. 4. Replace the rear calipers with summat else £££.

[Enceladus]

I'm pretty sure that the cross springs 9195056 are no longer available from Vauxhall. They're a different size to the version used with solid discs and are not interchangeable.
The pins 9195055 might be available on special order but are of the order of £6 ea. There are four but can likely be cleaned up and refitted.
The ATE discs linked to by Jan Suhr are coated so the edges and boss shouldn't rust for a couple of years. They should be just as effective as the factory fit. Whatever about cost, any new discs with new pads are likely an improvement on worn out old ones.
Discs (rear) wearing out too fast means that the friction material used in the pads is too abrasive. Use factory original pads if you can get them. They're less abrasive. Proper GM rear pads are ATE. Aftermarket ATE or Vauxhall Tradeclub pads are not necessarily the same as the factory pads, but should give good performance.
Rear discs of any make should last about 3 times the fronts.

I'd go for ATE, same as original

https://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/957246-ate