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Just because something was previously changed,. doesn't mean that a) it's not faulty or b) not correctly fitted.

Fuel filter may not have made a difference, but I would wager that it was overdue.

The gear selector issue is yet another, separate, issue rather than part of everything else.

Have you replaced the MAF yet?

Have you reseated the cluster yet?

Also what other parts have been replaced recently?

Get the codes read, either with the pedal trick or an actual code reader and report back.

Crank sensor produces the rpm signal.

Camber, toe, height?

As for the dealer quoting for all those parts, only an idiot would replace factory original shocks on an older used car with some miles on it without replacing all those bits.

Springs can be subjective, but it's not a new, low mileage car.

Readings were

Left Hand.          Right Hand

+ 0.5                  + 0.6

1.2                       0.3

67.8 cm                67.2 cm.   ( ground to wheel arch)

Few questions there. Sorry been out all day.

First ride height. Lh side is higher 67.8 cm to 67.2 cm rh ( kerbside).

Tyre wear. Yes inner edge trashed the tyre on the lh side which was only spotted at mot.  So to keep mobile I got two new tyres and through a restest.

Garage checked tracking and that is when the camber issue came up. I took a photo of the settings. Not sure if he needed to adjust toe in/out. I will go back and ask him.

Ditto will chase up the vw dealer who advised best live with it but will send you a quote . I suspect the reason it will be “ a. Lot” apart from being a main stealer is quote will be shocks, springs, mounts, bearings, new bolts maybe arms too. That was the way I have been leaning towards albeit via a trusted cheaper local garage.

Then I started  thinking maybe time to get shot and buy somthing else newer….. and put the thousand euros suspension is going to cost towards that.

Does it drive well? Well today I convinced myself it doesnt ie front left wheel feels like it is dragging on corners. Car doesnt pull left or right though in a straight line.
There is also a noise like a bearing thrum.

On the plus side having just shelled out on a cambelt and new water pump and also the periodic dsg oil and filter change, selling or trading in should be a shade easier.

Thanks to TB for the thread move Yes solid rear discs on mine[weren't the vented rears only on the 3.2 and possibly 2.6?] Must admit I've not yet delved too deeply into this so it could be the slider pins,thanks for the suggestion and also dimensions.

If its the 2.6 and Facelift I assume its Fly by wire (as opposed to older cable cruise control on my 2.5 pre-facelift).

Could have been a electrical gremlin switching it off ? or iffy brake pedal switch which also turns off cruise when brakes pressed ?

Just a thought.

Andy,

....
Changing the oil+filter is interesting,  if car isn't high enough you can't drop undertray flap down enough,  .....

you need a Pela oil-sucker-outerer 

 I'm of the old skool,, undo sump plug, and make a mess on the floor as the tray is positioned wrong,

I've a Pela because one of my Smarts doesn't have a sump drain plug, but I do remember having a car where the under tray fouled the floor before it came off.

I have the same for the F-type, it actually has a metal tube inside the oil filler which passes down to the base of the sump by the drain hole to suck the oil through:



It is by far the easiest car I have ever changed oil and filter on 

The Insignificant engine is a pita as the filter is at the back right-hand corner of the engine and officially requires a special funnel to get the oil to drain cleanly when the filter is removed... It's almost a subframe out job*. Sucking the oil out doesn't correct the stupid design.

It's not quite that bad, but the filter cap is buried in the depths of Narnia.

,,

 Remove front wheel, get a 1L oil bottle cut the front out, wedge under filter housing, undo filter, all drops into said bottle, then wiggle it out, without spilling any

Hi Guys!
Today i had a little wtf moment with my omega. B2 Sedan 2.6 V6 manual elegance. I had my cruise control at steady 70km/h, and i accelerated the car via the cruise control button. I held the button for around to get 85-90km/h and then i heard some noise from the back, then the TC icon appeared, and the rpm is dropped down around the idle revs but a little higher around 800rpm, and then i tried to accelerate but there was no response from the engine, i floored it but nothing happened. After that, i turned off the engine, and started, and its working just fine ever since. I tried to reconstruct the scenario but i couldnt, i will try again after work... Whats can be wrong with the car? Maybe the throttle body?
Thanks

ps: this is my first post, sry for broken english solutions xd

Or a weak pump, or fuel pressure regulator...

FUel pump was changed by previous owner. I changed fuel filter nothing worked.
Also I've noticed that when I cant start engine Sport light on the dash starts blinkink (I've googled it its gearbox some error)
For now I dont have "My Naff Code Reader" to read faults but maybe there is some kind of sensor which checks rpm?