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[Bigron]

Al, you might like to consider this:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281042112447

You need M18 x 1.5 to M18 x 1.5, if it didn't show in the link - £4.17 delivered.

Ron.

[amba]

The spigot in the link provided by Ron does seem to be better than the GM Genuine .

With the GM you need to rely on the oil filter tightening it into the block and securing with threadlock,and whilst that will provide a permanent solution I like the idea of being able to secure with a deep socket as this part has.

Good find Ron

[Bigron]

Thanks amba; I was worried, looking at the Vx original, as to how it could be tightened, apart from using two locknuts temporarily then removing them, but what a fuss! At least the hexagon in the centre will do as you said. 

Ron.

[Nick W]

The spigot in the link provided by Ron does seem to be better than the GM Genuine .

With the GM you need to rely on the oil filter tightening it into the block and securing with threadlock,and whilst that will provide a permanent solution I like the idea of being able to secure with a deep socket as this part has.

Good find Ron

It's actually a hose joiner, so the hex in the middle might be too thick for the oil filter to seal against the block. If you're not in a rush, it might be worth a fiver to find out.The link I gave is meant to attach an oil filter, and is what I would buy.

[Bigron]

Understood, Nick. I did buy one in anticipation of a future problem with my cannister filter, but I have it in a safe place right now!
If Al wants to try it, when I find it I will be glad to let him - reading this, Al?

Ron.

[powerslinky]

Umm ?    not too sure about this Ron. I'm with Nick on this one , having done a couple of conversions in the past,  I can see the hex shoulder protruding too much & not letting the rubber seal of the filter sit tight on the block 

In the days of walk around breakers yards , easy option would have been to turn up with 2 thin M18 nuts & 2   18mm spanners & take one off of an old VX block 

End of the day is it worth all the faffing about  . . .£18 for genuine item , all be it, a rip off for what it is , probably costs about 20p to make, vx is the way to go IMO

[Bigron]

I can see yours and Nick's concern, but if you look at the nipple that Nick linked to, it also has an unthreaded section in the centre of it, so surely the same applies?
It looks to me that the "bald" section in one and the hexagon section in the other are of similar dimensions.
Anyway, the offer still stands, Al; if and when I find the one I have, I'll post it to you and if it works, fine - keep it, I can easily get another.

Ron.

[amba]

Good point about the hex shoulder..cant say I tried either.

Think on reflection I,m also with the genuine GM part ..smart for 10 minutes at paying silly money but fit and forget.

[Doctor Gollum]

The GM part is actually screwed in using an internal
12/14mm Allen key and has a blank space at the centre of the thread to prevent over inserting without a shoulder 

[Bigron]

Ok, I accept the criticism: sorry gents, only trying to help.

Ron.

[Nick W]

The GM part is actually screwed in using an internal
12/14mm Allen key and has a blank space at the centre of the thread to prevent over inserting without a shoulder 

Neither of the two I bought were like that; they're just tube threaded along their entire length. Ford ones are the same.

[robson]

My genuine GM adapter is a pipe threaded at both ends with a non threaded portion in the centre 1inch overall length and no internal means of screwing it in.

[TheBoy]

As the misinformed are so keen to be shot of the housings, I'm sure one of the spin-on fanatics will happily give you one of their's, complete with lug

Couldn't give mine away, so it went in the bin. When they work, replacements are not needed. Once they're broken, reverting to the modern spin-on is the way to go as no one with any sense is going to risk the possible hassle of removing another damaged housing.

I wouldn't. I would recommend the housing type all day long. Had I known you were binning one, I would have had it, and converted the MV6 to that type 

[omega2018]

The GM part is actually screwed in using an internal
12/14mm Allen key and has a blank space at the centre of the thread to prevent over inserting without a shoulder 

my original genuine (over priced) gm one wasn't. I just used two nuts and tightened the outside nut against the inside then when the threadlock had set tightened the inside to separate them then removed both

[ronnyd]

Sorry Al, light is what i should have said, are there any mass produced cars that have gauges these days?