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[9jdm]

Hi folks. I’ve read all the history but I’m hoping for some inspiration!  Replaced the sensor with genuine gm Bosch part all way from Germany through dealer. 95 quid all in. Car ran fine for 2 weeks and hey ho same problem this morning. Starting difficult and now it’s cut out altogether.
I have inspected the two ends and they seem fine. I rerouted it up by the brake pipes to keep away from heat.
Any thoughts or tests. The code is 0335 crank position.

[Doctor Gollum]

Check the belt timing.

[Enceladus]

Sounds like you've already checked but just in case?

First I would want to confirm that the sensor cable is properly clicked home in the mating connector for the loom at the top rear of the engine. You could also unmake the connection and inspect the connector for damage or terminal displacement. At this age the plastic in the connector shells is fragile and it might be broken or loose. Clean the terminals with some electrical contact cleaner.

The sensor is obsolete so sometimes dealers obtain an aftermarket part for you, in an effort to be helpful. Your sensor should be a GM part #90540743 which will be marked GM and also Bosch 0 261 210 131. There will also be a Bosch logo. So I would want to confirm that is what I actually received?

So what is the exact description of the sensor on the invoice?
and/or
I seem to recall that it is possible to use macro mode on a camera to get a good photo of the sensor in-situ. Then you can enlarge the photo on a computer to confirm the number without removing the sensor, which can be a PITA.

[terry paget]

I refer you to my reply#16 23sept19 on your earlier thread.
I reckon you have been sold a faulty sensor. You may have difficulty persuading your supplier of this. I see your car is a 2.6. I might have a spare off a car I have scrapped, if so I will send it to you.

[Enceladus]

If the new part is marked GM 90492061 on the head, then it's incorrect for your engine. The resistance is much too low, circa 540 Ohms Vs 850-900 Ohms for the Bosch part. This part is also listed for V6 Omegas, but it won't work on yours. It's for certain early 2.5 that have a matching ECU, but will fit on your car as it has the same loom connector. So what does the invoice say? Take a picture of the sensor in-situ?

[9jdm]

Really appreciate the feedback. I will get under the car tomorrow if it stops raining and have a fresh look. And I’ll check the contacts. I appreciate the offer Terry. After checking I will pm you. The dealer says it must be something else and would require the car to test it as I fitted the part and they don’t accept returns on electrical items!  Really helpful.

[Enceladus]

Did you not receive an invoice for the new part? What is the exact description and part number of the sensor? That might settle it without getting under the car.

And do you have the sensor you removed, the new one that apparently failed? What numbers are on that one?

[terry paget]

Sorry to have raised your hopes. All I could find it my huge spares stock were a 2.0 cam sensor, a 2.2 crank sensor, a crank sensor labelled SIEMENS 09 148 306, and a crank sensor in a sealed GM bag, labelled part no. 9174621 twice, and on opening up the part is also labelled BOSCH 9174621, not the number your post says you need.

My spares heap is at my print shop, recently closed, includes wheels, bumpers, doors, and many boxes of assorted Omega parts. I will look again on Monday when I spend 2 hours waiting for bingo book customers, it will help pass the time.

[Enceladus]

@terry paget
PM Sent
and

.............. and a crank sensor in a sealed GM bag, labelled part no. 9174621 twice, and on opening up the part is also labelled BOSCH 9174621, not the number your post says you need.

I believe your 9174621 sensor is for early 2.0 16V Omega with X20XEV and maybe also for Astra-F, Calibra and Vectra B with similar versions of the 1.8 & 2.0 16V engines. In addition it has straight rather than oval sides on the connector. So I concur, it's not for the Omega 2.6 V6 in question.

[9jdm]

Invoice says 90540743. And I recall it having Bosch stamped on it. It’s persistent rain here as usual. I’m based over in Ireland at moment. I’ll check car eventually. I’ll probably remove and check the whole length.
Cheers again guys for your patience with this prolonged problem.

[Enceladus]

Well 90540743 is the GM part number for the Bosch 0-261-210-131 sensor. So you should find those numbers stamped on the head of the new sensor. And also on the old one, assuming it was original. It seems probable the new sensor is correct. But it's still worth checking.

Perhaps the mating half of the connector on the engine loom is broken and not making good contact with the sensor cable. Or your new sensor might have failed. There are reports on the forum of the dealer supplied parts failing, so its not unknown but much rarer than with 3rd party supplied parts.

Do you have the old sensor? Is there any damage to the tip? Did you fit the new sensor with a new o-ring? Might it have been pinched so the sensor is not sitting squarely in it's bore?

[9jdm]

Update. Removed and inspected. Has the Bosch number stamped on it 0261210131 and made in Romania as someone else said. Now interesting you mention it straight in bore.  It seemed loose!  And not being an expert on these matters it was covered in oil. I assume this is normal as it is stuck in the bottom of the engine, but I thought I’d ask. The electrical switch seems fine.

[Enceladus]

Likely your cam cover oil seals have failed, usually because the seals have gone hard and the crankcase breathers are blocked, now oil is leaking down from the back of the engine.

Lift out the nearside ignition module and see if the plug wells are flooded with oily liquid.

[9jdm]

Just to clarify. The oil is in the part of the sensor which is inside. Only visible when I removed it for inspection. Outside is ok. Is it normal to be oily.

[Doctor Gollum]

Just to clarify. The oil is in the part of the sensor which is inside. Only visible when I removed it for inspection. Outside is ok. Is it normal to be oily.

Yes

[Enceladus]

Sorry, I thought you meant the outside of the sensor was covered in oil. I didn't realise you had already pulled it out.

Bosch (0-261-210-131) 0261310131 is the correct sensor. Although I would have expected to see a GM logo and part number as well?

However the sensor should not be loose in it's bore, once fully seated. It should feel snug. If the sensor is not fully pushed home or is sitting at an angle or can move then the signal will be bad or unreliable.

Under the head there should be an o-ring in a groove. As I recall it's green coloured. This o-ring sits in the top of the bore. Is this o-ring pinched or damaged or displaced? Or maybe you used the o-ring from the old sensor which might be hard and flattened? Or maybe it's not there at all. Or maybe the bore has some crud in it that's preventing a clean fit?

If the sensor is a loose fit in it's bore then that might explain why it worked for two weeks and now doesn't.

And is there enough slack on the sensor cable? To allow for engine movement? Might the cable be broken?

[9jdm]

Thanks for the detailed reply. Really appreciate it. I have double checked the whole cable. The bore is clean and the seal good. All tight now. Absolutely dead when ignition turned on. Just get the lights on dash. Still get code 0335. All I can do is try another sensor and if that doesn’t work I think I’ve had enough of it.

[Enceladus]

Please ignore the typo in my post above. I meant 'Bosch (0-261-210-131) 0261210131'.

Do you mean the engine won't turn over at all or the engine turns over but won't start?

[TheBoy]

Although I would have expected to see a GM logo and part number as well?

I would expect to see this.  Did it come in a sealed GM packet with the GM hologram on?  If not, I'd be suspicious.

[9jdm]

Hi guys link to some images. Showing sensor and recess.
https://postimg.cc/gallery/okkqg402/

[Enceladus]

The Germany sensor is a Bosch generic 3-wire aftermarket. The Romania sensor is the correct part.  Somebody else had the Bosch Romania made sensor recently and reported it fine. Also supplied via a dealer.

You haven't clarified if the engine turns over or not?

I can't recall for certain but I'm not convinced that a faulty crank sensor locks out the starter. The engine should still turn over but won't start due to no spark. Maybe somebody else can confirm.

Your crank P0335 error will remain until you clear it with a reader or until the engine has been successfully started for the requisite number of times.

[Doctor Gollum]

No fuel , but net result is the same... no signal=no start...

[9jdm]

Hi sometimes it turns over. Just tried it and it started. Runs lumpy but will rev no problem. Turned it off. Tried a second time and nothing.

[henryd]

Hi sometimes it turns over. Just tried it and it started. Runs lumpy but will rev no problem. Turned it off. Tried a second time and nothing.

When you say nothing do you mean it didn't crank over or it did crank but didn't start ??

[9jdm]

Won’t crank. Turn key nothing. Just all the usual lights

[Nick W]

Won’t crank. Turn key nothing. Just all the usual lights

that's not a crank sensor issue.
Check the battery and both leads.
Then the starter connections.
Ignition switches fail too, especially if you have a heavy key ring.

[9jdm]

Why would I be getting a crank sensor error code then

[Nick W]

Why would I be getting a crank sensor error code then

because it only returns a signal when the engine is turning. A stationary V6 will always return a CPS fault code. You can remove the crank sensor from the car, and the engine will crank for as long as there's power in the battery.

[Enceladus]

If your crank sensor was loose  but undamaged it might well have generated a new instance of the P0335 fault. Re-seating the sensor might have cured that. However the stored code won't clear until a preset number of good starts is achieved. Might be six, can't remember. Or use a code reader to clear the fault from memory.

The V6 requires the crank signal to trigger the spark as well as the fuel. If there is a signal then the engine might start but run badly. But the engine should always crank. Since yours doesn't reliably crank you have some other fault which needs to be addressed first.

Check the battery voltage. Should be 12.5v or slightly higher at rest/no load. You don't want to see the battery voltage drop below 10v when cranking. Anything less then the starter solenoid might not work which would cause no turnover. If the numbers are any lower then you need to fully charge the battery, with a good charger. Or the battery might have a shorted cell and be scrap. And as suggested by Nick W above check the battery earth, starter connections and the engine earth.

Also the recent torrential rain probably hasn't helped. Did any water get into the car? Via the nearside scuttle maybe? Remove the pollen filter and shine a torch down. Is it wet or muddy?

Have you checked for oil and/or water in the plug wells?

[henryd]

Won’t crank. Turn key nothing. Just all the usual lights

that's not a crank sensor issue.
Check the battery and both leads.
Then the starter connections.
Ignition switches fail too, especially if you have a heavy key ring.

Agreed,engine should spin over regardless, your main fault lies elsewhere

[9jdm]

You guys know your stuff. Thanks. I worked through the list above and sure enough oil in the plug bores around the coil packs on both banks. So where next. I guess new cam cover gaskets. I heard somewhere that the breather system could be a cause. Checked the pipes entering back of plenum and all seem fine. Pointers please.

[Nick W]

You guys know your stuff. Thanks. I worked through the list above and sure enough oil in the plug bores around the coil packs on both banks. So where next. I guess new cam cover gaskets. I heard somewhere that the breather system could be a cause. Checked the pipes entering back of plenum and all seem fine. Pointers please.

Oil in the plug bores is a service job, it isn't the cause of the engine not cranking. Fix the more serious problems first, by doing one at a time.


When you've done that, there is a guide for dealing with the entire breather system - not just the pipes - which should be done as part of changing the cam cover gaskets.

[terry paget]

Engine should always crank when you turn the key. Put the lights on and try it. If the lights dim but the engine does not crank, suspect the starter. If the lights do not dim there is not power going to the starter, suspect the starter relay, which sits on top of the starter. Check if there is power going to the starter relay to pull it in when you turn the key (smaller lead to starter).

If there is power to the relay when key is turned but starter does not crank, fault is in the relay. As the relay comes with the starter, again you need a new starter.

[9jdm]

It’s all stripped down now so can’t test the starter but- I noticed oil has got onto starter. Would that goose the relay.

[Nick W]

Terry, you've written relay when you meant solenoid.

[terry paget]

Terry, you've written relay when you meant solenoid.

You're right Nick. As I recall, the solenoid pulls a lever, which in turn engages the starter gear with the flywheel gear and pushes 2 contacts together, carrying a large current to the starter motor. A relay is a large current switch activated by a smaller current.