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Author Topic: Replacing 2.2DTi Crank Sensor  (Read 9161 times)

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VXL V6

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Replacing 2.2DTi Crank Sensor
« on: 04 May 2010, 23:13:15 »

2.2 DTi Crank Sensor replacement

Symptoms

Usually the vehicle is fine until it reaches normal operating temperature then the classic symptoms are poor idling and acceleration coupled with no rev counter and the engine management light illuminated.


DTC codes raised

P1335: InjectionPump: no Engine Speed Input Signal from Control Unit
and sometimes P0725: Engine-Speed Sensor Input Circuit no Signal


Parts required

Crank Sensor - GM part no 90540188 - £29.40 on Trade Club (correct at time of writing)
2 x small cable ties


Tools required

8mm socket
E10 torx external socket
 Small / medium ratchet
Small extension bar (chassis / steering can get in the way)
Trolley Jack and axle stands


How to

This is a very simple job (certainly not as fiddly as the V6 crank sensor), in fact the hardest part of the job I found was to remove a couple of the undertray fixings that had rusted.

Ensure the handbrake is engaged, the car is in 1st gear and the car is on level solid ground,  put a couple of wedges up against the rear wheels and jack the car up at the front and support on axle stands.

As always, ensure that the car is stable and secure before proceeding to perform any work underneath.

Drop the undertray off (8 X 8mm hex headed screws), you may find it best to try and spray some ‘plus gas’ on the screw threads  if they look rusty.

The crank sensor is located on the nearside (passenger side – UK) rear of the block and is secured by an E10 bolt. Remove the bolt, pull the sensor off and pop the new one on in it’s place and tighten the bolt to 8Nm.



Follow the old sensor cable up the side of the engine and carefully snip the two tie wraps off, run the new cable up the same route and fit two new tie wraps (I used some quick release ones to make it simpler if it ever needs replacing again).

From above, unclip the connector at the metal bracket by pressing the wire clip inwards and pull up.





Press the two plastic lugs and the old sensor plug will drop out of the metal bracket, click the new sensor plug into place and reconnect the connector from the engine loom.



Double check everything, refit the undertray (I dabbed the screws in some copper ease so that they will come off easier next time).

Lower the car back onto the ground and that’s the job done. I found the car idled a lot smoother than even before the ECU started to log the failure codes so I presume the ECU has a certain level of tolerance to the signals it receives and it’s only when the signals reach certain thresholds that the ECU can no longer interpret them.
« Last Edit: 27 September 2011, 09:17:17 by Jimbob »
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