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[tOnYoYo]

Sooo... Basically I've spent ages searching for an answer but have failed 

Here's the run down:
My battery is draining like a bugger. The battery is less than a year old.

On Saturday I jumped the car and took it for a 30 min drive. After which it was capable of starting itself.

I parked it up and by 2pm on Sunday it was dead as a dead thing. So I put on some latex gloves and ripped the power sounder out--as per suggestion.

I then took it on exactly the same 30 min route. Again it was capable of starting itself.

Monday evening it was fine. Stated easy.

Today? Dead as. And the power sounder is in my kitchen, in pieces, and looks like new! Or at least it did prior to Mr Junior Hacksaw.

What is the next likely candidate? Where should I start looking..?


Thanks guys!

[VXL V6]

Sure it's not a dead cell in the battery?

Have you metered out as per the guide on here...

[tOnYoYo]

I don't really know what that means! 

But if you are asking if I'm sure the battery is not knackered already, my answer is: No. I'm not sure. 

Guess I'll have to borrow a tool of some sort... 

[Entwood]

Have a read here ... might help a fair bit ..

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90619.0

If you don't have/know how to use a multimeter then you might have problems .. or need to learn a new skill PDQ .

[tidla]

Most car spares shops have a battery drop tester or the modern equivalent..

Charge the battery up on a bench charger if you have one and get it tested.

Good place to start once and saves you chasing your tail.

[Bigron]

I hate to mention Ebay, but they are good for some things and in this case you can get a more than adequate multimeter for around £3, including postage!
Use it, follow the guide as suggested and report back with your findings if you need more help; happy to oblige if you do.

Ron.

[Andy B]

...
Where should I start looking..?


Thanks guys!

Take the car to a proper auto spark and get the battery drop tested 

[05omegav6]

Related question... Should the battery fizz/bubble whilst charging? Is it worth topping it up with distilled water and popping it back on charge

[Bigron]

The "fizzing" is an indication of completed charge. A discharged battery will convert charging energy into stored chemical energy, converting lead sulphate into lead oxide (my chemistry is only approximate!) and when all conversion has taken place, the energy that you continue to provide goes into splitting the water content in the electrolyte into hydrogen and oxygen and heat - hence the gassing. This is the point at which you stop charging as the electrolyte becomes too acidic and the heat damages the plates of the battery.
The so-called "smart" chargers have supervisory circuits which drop their output voltage down to a lower level to maintain full charge but no gassing, but as you would expect, they are dearer than basic chargers.

Ron.

[zirk]

Obvious I know, but if you're taking your Battery to be drop tested, fully charge it first and then leave it somewhere cold overnight before having it tested. 

Sick and tired of hearing people being sold a new Battery, because the Shop / Tester checked it half charged. 

[05omegav6]

The "fizzing" is an indication of completed charge. A discharged battery will convert charging energy into stored chemical energy, converting lead sulphate into lead oxide (my chemistry is only approximate!) and when all conversion has taken place, the energy that you continue to provide goes into splitting the water content in the electrolyte into hydrogen and oxygen and heat - hence the gassing. This is the point at which you stop charging as the electrolyte becomes too acidic and the heat damages the plates of the battery.
The so-called "smart" chargers have supervisory circuits which drop their output voltage down to a lower level to maintain full charge but no gassing, but as you would expect, they are dearer than basic chargers.

Ron.

My charger is a reasonably intelligent one... shall top the electrolyte up and try again...

[tOnYoYo]

Thanks to everyone for your replies   

Here's where I'm at...

Tonight I borrowed a multimeter and checked the voltage. Since I opened this post it has dropped to 7.7v

I jumped it and drove to Halfords because I had to return an item, and they said they can do a test on it. When the guy tested it the battery was at 12.2v (from a three min drive!) but the testing device claimed the battery was buggered--something to do with amazingly low Amps, I don't know.

They recommended that I chase the manufacturer as it has a three year guarantee and it's only been in the car a year. They even offered to take my battery once a week and charge it for me (for free!) since I don't drive the car much and don't own a charger.

What I'm going to do now it's chase the manufacturer (or Green Flag) and see if I can get a free replacement. Then watch the voltage more closely!

As a side note: The power sounder has two batteries and both are at 3.91v... Does this mean that it's fine and can be put back together and refitted to the car?

[cjackel492]

Related question... Should the battery fizz/bubble whilst charging? Is it worth topping it up with distilled water and popping it back on charge

This can also indicate over charging which can kill batteries.

What voltage do you get on the battery while the engine is running?

13.8V - 14.2V is normal, upto 14.4V during the cold months is fine.

Carl,

[zirk]

Thanks to everyone for your replies   

Here's where I'm at...

Tonight I borrowed a multimeter and checked the voltage. Since I opened this post it has dropped to 7.7v

I jumped it and drove to Halfords because I had to return an item, and they said they can do a test on it. When the guy tested it the battery was at 12.2v (from a three min drive!) but the testing device claimed the battery was buggered--something to do with amazingly low Amps, I don't know.

They recommended that I chase the manufacturer as it has a three year guarantee and it's only been in the car a year. They even offered to take my battery once a week and charge it for me (for free!) since I don't drive the car much and don't own a charger.

What I'm going to do now it's chase the manufacturer (or Green Flag) and see if I can get a free replacement. Then watch the voltage more closely!

As a side note: The power sounder has two batteries and both are at 3.91v... Does this mean that it's fine and can be put back together and refitted to the car?

Advice here is remove it and leave it removed, there are horror stories of them catching alight and setting the car on fire, as a few Omega Members have experienced, and a Vectra formated to black rubble just down the road from me. 

[Magwheels]

[/quote]
Advice here is remove it and leave it removed
[/quote]

[tOnYoYo]

I checked again today (after a quick spin yesterday) and the battery was at 12.12v

I disconnected the battery and checked the current drain (as specified in http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90619.0) and I'm not sure I'm doing it right.

With the meter set to 20u I get 0.01 on the screen. It's that right? 20u?

[tOnYoYo]

Ok those settings were clearly not right. I'm doing this now:
http://1drv.ms/1qbo11A

And these are the numbers I'm getting:
http://1drv.ms/1sqecTg
http://1drv.ms/1sqejyk

That's 0.69 and 1.15 and it seems to start around 0.7 but jump up to over 1.1. Just doesn't settle.

Any ideas?

The voltage has dropped over night from 12.42v to 12.11v

[Bigron]

The meter positive lead is plugged into the 2 Amp socket, so you need to switch the selector to its 2 Amp range. If you want to use the range you are presently switched to, plug it into the next socket to the right of the 2 Amp socket.
It has been said on here before but worth repeating - NEVER attempt to measure voltage (i.e. leads across the battery) with the leads still plugged into the current-measuring terminals....your meter will rapidly resemble a failed power sender!

Ron.

[zirk]

Ok those settings were clearly not right. I'm doing this now:
http://1drv.ms/1qbo11A

And these are the numbers I'm getting:
http://1drv.ms/1sqecTg
http://1drv.ms/1sqejyk

That's 0.69 and 1.15 and it seems to start around 0.7 but jump up to over 1.1. Just doesn't settle.

Any ideas?

The voltage has dropped over night from 12.42v to 12.11v

What are you measuring here? wheres the probes?, to measure current, you've diss'ed the battery + lead and are measuring between battery + term and the + lead?

If your doing above and its an Elite, you need to wait for the Rear Ciggy Lighter timer to switch off and if NCDC HU Steering Control lights to go aswell.

Also you probe is in the end one (cant see what it is, probes in the way) but looking at the dail looks like end one is 10Amp, so switch to 10 or if under 2Amp switch to 2 and use the 2A Probe input.

[tOnYoYo]

Well this is all complicated... 

I pulled the negative cable off the battery and tested between that and the battery terminal. I waited for... ages...  but it didn't get any better

I'm using the cables in COM and 10A (didn't get a reading using the 2A).

So should I switch to 10 (bottom of the green, on the left) and use the 10A hole? How long do I wait to be sure everything is off? 10 mins? It is an Elite.

Thanks guys!.

[zirk]

Cant remember, think the rear Ciggy switches off about 20mins or so, the Steering wheel lights ? a long time.

Just leave it the DVM inline and monitor whats going on, are you getting any readings when you first start.

Just make sure all doors are shut, HU off etc, might be worth unplugging the Bonnet Switch but I cant remember if that does anything in standby mode.

Check it with the car open and then again locked up and alarm set etc.

Also if its an Saloon, check the rear boot switch (Boot Light) but you've probably been told that already.

What your looking for is current thats going to slowly flatten the Battery,