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16

General Car Chat / Re: Meriva P.A.S. problems.

« on: 22 April 2016, 13:38:09 »

Try Marks suggestion but the common failure is due to the torque sensors on the steering shaft coming unbonded, the control unit cant make any sense of the resulting input signals then fails safe and turns the motor off.
This symptom gets progressively worse with time and you start to dread the warning light coming on - usually just as you pitch into a tight roundabout and find you cant turn the wheel anymore.

BBA Reman do an exchange unit for these, think you have to check the variant letter (sticker) on the unit before ordering if you want to get the new one before returning the old.

Not too bad to fit - minor abrasions and bleeding only required.

17

General Discussion Area / Re: Relief......at last

« on: 15 April 2016, 08:35:34 »

Oh well, missus will be in soon, best get the possum belly and boiled hog jowls on. 

Tha's eatin well, t'were sugar butties f'tea when I last lived oop north.

18

General Discussion Area / Re: 108

« on: 18 March 2016, 13:55:59 »

Ah.....so this is not a thread about rickety old railcars then?

19

Omega General Help / Re: Cabin Heater Fan

« on: 17 March 2016, 10:37:25 »

The climate control "hedgehog" is electronic and can be damaged by water from a blocked scuttle drain or when water gets into the fan bearings and partly seizes the motor.

I would want to see a fan & hedgehog working before removing from a scrapper; unless someone on here has one that has been stored dry since removal.

20

General Discussion Area / Re: Hotpoint WMA60

« on: 22 December 2015, 15:39:41 »

Hang on.... this is an ancient thread, surely TB isn't still trapped under his Hotpoint is he?

Well if he is, he's been under there for nearly 2 years.  didn't think Hotpoints lasted that long.

<panto mode> Oh yes they do
(if you change the brushes, the bearings, the brushes again, the drum dampers, the brushes again, the bearings again, the door seal, the bearings again (this time use epoxy metal to stick them in because corrosion has eaten the housing), the brushes again.....)

21

General Discussion Area / Re: Hotpoint WMA60

« on: 22 December 2015, 13:56:32 »

Hang on.... this is an ancient thread, surely TB isn't still trapped under his Hotpoint is he?

22

General Discussion Area / Re: Hotpoint WMA60

« on: 22 December 2015, 13:55:32 »

Small pipe that leads to the water level sensor blocked with soap etc?
Pull it off the sensor / switch and blow through it to check it is clear.

If m/c 'thinks' it still has water in the drum it wont go onto the fast spin.

That or motor brushes - never understood the many and varied faults that worn brushes threw up but I used to keep a spare motor under the kitchen cupboards for a rapid change over.
Oh, and dont just fit new brushes to these without cleaning out the old carbon dust first, if you leave the dust in there they flash-over and kill the speed controller board.

23

General Discussion Area / Re: Insulating Conservatory Roof

« on: 01 December 2015, 13:49:19 »

Given you would get a plasterer for the 'finish' and even TB can paint, what could possibly go wrong!

As in: half full can of paint, topped off with a butane/air mix, spark plug fitted into lid sort of way?

24

General Discussion Area / Re: Technology for technology sake?

« on: 27 November 2015, 14:07:43 »

 why the hell do I need an iron I can access over the internet to make sure its turned off 

Perhaps you dont need one just now but in another 10 years when she starts forgetting things....

25

Omega General Help / Re: Broken timing belt

« on: 26 November 2015, 10:41:03 »

Damage is normally limited to bent valves and cracked guides - requiring replacement heads.
You would need a pair of heads from a breakers, head gaskets, stem seals (silly not to change them when it is already in bits) head bolts, manifold gaskets (at least the drivers side one) various O rings etc. cambelt kit, water pump aux belt.

The 2.6 should be a straight swap but is it due for cambelt, water pump etc? this could tip you decision towards refurbing the 3.2.

Dont think you can use 2.6 heads on a 3.2.

26

General Discussion Area / Re: A bit of homework, Project E

« on: 16 November 2015, 10:39:02 »

Are you fully trained in the use of a bossing stick now Mark?

27

General Discussion Area / Re: Washing machine breakdown

« on: 21 October 2015, 14:12:24 »

Take the fuse out of the moulded plug and have a good look at the fuse and fuse clips for signs of overheating, also look for carbon or discolouration of the plastic within the fuse compartment.
Check for any signs of overheating or discolouration of the wall socket as well - a loose or weak contact in the socket can cause the plug to overheat.

We replace a reasonable number of mains leads each year due to similar faults on high-powered medical devices, the fuses and contact clips heat up in normal use, the plastics begin to soften and degrade, eventually becoming sufficiently conductive to trip an RCD. We inspect all mains leads annually and carry out an insulation test to weed out failing leads before they cause a problem - even finding faults with brand-new leads occasionally.

28

General Car Chat / Re: Towing a car with U/S gearbox

« on: 07 October 2015, 12:24:44 »

We towed:

Omega estate from Manchester to Notingham
Omega estate from Liverpool to Nottingham
Omega saloon from Milton Keynes to Nottingham

No problems what so ever.

Nottingham is clearly the centre of the Omega Universe.


Do tell though....why did I end up with a brand-new tow pole after an admin borrowed the old, very well travelled one?

29

General Car Chat / Re: Tmf's head gasket

« on: 22 September 2015, 16:52:04 »

When fitting the new crank seal will find that the seal lip wants to fit over the crank at exactly the same point as the seal outer wants to engage in the block - if you try to tap the seal home you will damage the seal lip and it will leak worse than ever.

You need to make a tool to guide the seal lip onto the crank - I have used thin brass or aluminium shim in the past but I imagine a thin rigid plastic would work well (like the old overhead projector sheets). Wrap a strip of your chosen material tightly around the crank and fix the overlap with sellotape to form a tube. Grease the outside of this then carefully insert into the oil seal. Offer the tube + oil seal up to the engine and the tube should ensure that the seal lip cannot get trapped as you tap the seal home.

30

General Car Chat / Re: Removing snapped plastic connector

« on: 08 September 2015, 11:02:02 »

Try increasing the hole size with a drill then tap in a torx bit and use that to unscrew the remains. I found I had to go to the maximum size drill bit and torx driver before the corrosion let go of the remaining plastic.
A hose down the header tank before you screw in the replacement fitting seems to flush out any remaining bits of plastic swarf.