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31

Omega General Help / Re: Front shock absorber bearings.

« on: 31 July 2015, 10:21:13 »

Have you opened them up and checked the race etc?

Easy to do and easy to clean, usually they are fine and once cleaned and re-greased, as good as new. Plus you can actually do a proper inspection of the condition then as well.

You can replace the balls cheaply from the local bike shop. Just check that there aren't any bad ridges in the raceway.

32

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Cam cover seals - what are these holes?

« on: 29 July 2015, 12:55:15 »

Those holes act as drains for the space behind the camshaft oil seals. If they get blocked, oil escaping from the front cam bearing causes pressure to build up behind the camshaft oil seals and they leak bigtime.
usual cause of blockage is overuse of black goo when fitting camcover seals.

33

Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.2 petrol 2003 clutch fluid level and bleeding question

« on: 26 June 2015, 22:36:19 »

Dont use ordinary grease on any brake or clutch system, it can cause rubber seals to deteriorate, there used to be a special grease that could be used on pistons and seals but I havnt seen it sold for 20 years or so.

I use a simple piece of plastic tubing to link an easy-bleed to the clutch bleed nipple---just dont apply much air pressure to the easy bleed else the pipe pops off and you get very wet, very quickly.

34

General Discussion Area / Re: saying bye

« on: 26 June 2015, 14:05:08 »

[/quote] If you buy an X-Type Mondeo may I suggest you pay only buttons.
Those cars are trouble.
[/quote]

Nothing wrong with the x-type in my experience, like most ex-fleet and ex-business user cars they can have a back-log of service and repair issues due to the 'servicing' policy dictated by the lease market.....dont touch it for 3 years and then dump it onto the retail market for some other sucker to fix.

Jaguar customer service is excellent as are most independent specialists, the Jaguar dealers on the other hand are worse than most Vx dealers - yes it is possible- If you arrive with a vehicle over 3 years old they treat you like something distasteful  that they just stepped in.

I do admit to being disapointed with my x-type estate though, after several Omega estates, the Jag simply isnt big enough. I want the acceleration, fuel economy and handling of the Jag, coupled to the space and flexibility of the Omega.....a new model Omega in fact.

35

Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.2 petrol 2003 clutch fluid level and bleeding question

« on: 26 June 2015, 13:45:12 »

When you press the clutch pedal down, the first part of the master cylinder travel closes the port leading to the reservoir so you can only pressure-bleed with the pedal fully up.

Bleeding from the top down is often unsuccessful because of the vertical section of pipe from master cylinder to slave. I suggest you try pressure-bleeding from the clutch bleed nipple back up to the reservoir. If you remove the bleed nipple first and wrap a turn of ptfe tape around the threads you wont get quite so wet.

The symptoms you describe are those of clutch drag. If you are sure that the clutch is bled properly then you have to consider clutch contamination. Is there any sign of oil (engine or gearbox) visible on the flywheel? There is a window somewhere that lets you see the front of the flywheel. Has there been a coolant leak recently at the back of the engine?

If no improvement then you will have to remove the box to investigate further.

36

General Car Chat / Re: What Car Did You Pass Your Test In.

« on: 25 June 2015, 10:57:00 »

1960 Zephyr 6 MkII Lowline.
3-speed box, column change, crash first gear, vacuum operated wipers. valve radio! bench seating (green leather) umbrella handbrake and floor mounted dip switch.

manual windows, no central locking, no heated rear window, no seat belts, no air bags, no power steering or servo brakes, no cup holders, no eml (it just stopped if anything went wrong).

It later gained an aquaflow? head, triple brass bodied SU carbs, twin exhaust and a remote mounted Powerstop servo from an ex-police version found in a scrapyard in Earby.

37

Omega General Help / Re: oil leak . . rear crank seal ?

« on: 18 May 2015, 13:29:31 »

There is a trick to fitting the rear crank oil seal.
If you simply try to press and tap it in, then it will likely leak again .... dont ask how I know.

You need to find some thin rigid plastic sheet or similar (I had some brass shim available), you wrap this around the end of the crank and secure the overlap with sellotape etc. to form a tube.

Take the tube off the crank. Lube the oil seal and gently ease the tube into the oil seal from the outside, being careful not to damage the seal lip.

Now offer tube and seal up to the crank and engine and press / tap into place. The tube guides the oil seal lips over the end of the crank.

38

General Car Chat / Re: Another Corsa C thread (lol)...steering rack issue

« on: 23 March 2015, 12:31:36 »

Mark is right to say check the bolts joining the UJ to the rack and steering column, there were some cars with the bolts not tightened enough, our Corsa C had a recall to check it and got a shiny new UJ as a result.
The offside rack bush was worn on our Corsa, no MoT fail but it was really irritating over rough roads as I could hear it and feel it through the floor.
Wasted my money buying a tie rod, the ball joint was fine. The bushes are part of the rack and not available separately. Eventually found a new rack from a dealer who had changed brands and was selling off his stock at cost.

We also have a Meriva in the fleet which has the same problem....keeping the radio turned up seems to cure it though.

39

General Car Chat / Re: Another Corsa C thread (lol)...steering rack issue

« on: 22 March 2015, 22:07:47 »

Stilsons or water pump pliers should undo it.


The clunking noise you describe can sometimes be due to slight play in the bushes in the end of the rack - this is not an MoT fail unless excessive - MoT testers should have a bulletin about this and can give an advisory notice but not a fail unless there is too much play at the steering wheel.

Before you replace the tie rod check that it really is worn....if you turn the steering to extend the rack on the side in question you should be able to put your hand around the entire joint (rack boot makes it difficult but you can do it). Get someone to move the steering wheel whilst you feel for any play in the joint.

40

Omega General Help / Re: 3.0 rebuild cam question.

« on: 10 March 2015, 22:02:55 »

The cams are numbered 1-4 from left to right.
No1 cam uses No1 hole, No 2, No2 hole etc.

41

General Car Chat / Re: Mini clutch

« on: 06 February 2015, 14:46:46 »

Thats got a much later version of clutch than the Mini I used to maintain weld daily.
If it was restored in the past, do you know if the clutch pedal ever did return to the top properly? There are various sizes of master and slave cylinder over the years.....could wrong mix of bits have been used?
The big nut and lock nut on the end of the clutch cover was for adjusting the 'clutch throwout', or more accurately, to compensate for the variations in machining that crept in between Monday and Friday. That adjustment has to be right for the clutch to behave properly.....but I cant remember what you set it to.

42

General Discussion Area / Re: OOF members in Leeds?

« on: 06 January 2015, 13:53:25 »

Have you tried CPC? No min charge and no postage costs for on-line orders. (still part of the Farnell group but easier to deal with)

http://cpc.farnell.com/microswitch&getResults=true

43

Omega General Help / Re: Specific differences between X30XE and Y32SE?

« on: 29 September 2014, 13:44:58 »

Just to add to the above,
All the cams are engraved with an identification letter near the drive end. There is also a number which I believe relates to the profile grinder it was made on so an A3 is an 'A' cam, G1 a 'G' cam etc. Can be difficult to see unless cleaned properly.

44

Omega General Help / Re: my cat revs just before it stops

« on: 29 August 2014, 13:25:49 »

Try lifting off the throttle and immediately put the 'box into neutral......does the engine rev now? If yes then look at the throttle body, IACV and look for air leaks.
But if the engine returns cleanly to idle when you do this and it only revs when you brake then the problem could be to do with your brake servo or the servo vacuum line.

45

Omega General Help / Re: Failure to Start

« on: 27 August 2014, 21:55:30 »

No need to touch the fuel pump fuse or relay.
Wide open throttle + cranking is a condition recognised by the ecu and prevents fuel injection.