Topic: Parts for X30Xe (Read 1745 times)

300is · « **on:** 17 August 2011, 14:21:39 »

Hi Guys,
Can anyone reccomend a reputable place that can send spares to South Africa and not take my whole arm and leg with pricing

RobG · « **Reply #1 on:** 17 August 2011, 14:28:44 »

Depends on what sort of parts/spares you`re after

300is · « **Reply #2 on:** 17 August 2011, 14:29:58 »

Looking for:

1. Head gasket set
2. Head bolts
3. Timing kit with Tensioners
4. Water pump

Varche · « **Reply #3 on:** 17 August 2011, 14:31:38 »

And have you got a cam locking kit?

300is · « **Reply #4 on:** 17 August 2011, 14:33:49 »

Nope was hoping to do it freestyle

but from reading up on it, think i need the tool.
All i have is the haynes manual

RobG · « **Reply #5 on:** 17 August 2011, 14:35:08 »

Quote

Looking for:

1. Head gasket set
2. Head bolts
3. Timing kit with Tensioners
4. Water pump

Just had a quick browse, delivery by UPS would be around the £70-75 mark. Send a message to Andy, don`t know whether he would ship there though
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?action=viewprofile;username=333C362B31520

RobG · « **Reply #6 on:** 17 August 2011, 14:35:46 »

Quote

Nope was hoping to do it freestyle but from reading up on it, think i need the tool.
All i have is the haynes manual

No chance

300is · « **Reply #7 on:** 17 August 2011, 14:37:39 »

Thanks RobG

2woody · « **Reply #8 on:** 22 August 2011, 10:07:17 »

I have the tool, but much prefer to do it freestyle nowdays - with care and practice, it's actually quite easy and I find more accurate.

300is · « **Reply #9 on:** 22 August 2011, 10:36:05 »

yeah, i have seen somewhere that they use 2 x vice grip to hold the cams in place....
At the moment now i am having difficulty removing the exh manifold as engine is fitted in a Astra F and made front wheel drive.

kcl · « **Reply #10 on:** 22 August 2011, 12:18:33 »

Quote

I have the tool, but much prefer to do it freestyle nowdays - with care and practice, it's actually quite easy and I find more accurate.

How can you make it more accurate than with correct tools?

TheBoy · « **Reply #11 on:** 22 August 2011, 17:47:53 »

Cannot be accurately done without the tools. In fact, given how inaccurate the markings are on the rear cam cover, I'd say its not possible to even get it close.

Andy B · « **Reply #12 on:** 22 August 2011, 19:55:54 »

when are you going to prove yourselves right or wrong? Let Stu time it using ''rack o' th'eye'' and you can test it with a locking kit

. I bet you can get it not far off (though I can't think it'd be actually easier to do without) ..................... depends high you set your tensioner I suppose

Ken T · « **Reply #13 on:** 22 August 2011, 21:38:55 »

Interestingly enough.........

I had the belt and tensioners done by DLK, he used a Sykes locking kit, I watched him rotate about 3 full turns to check it was right. A few days later, I was changing the plugs and tried my newly acquired Sealey locking kit, and it didn't lock, eg I fitted the crankshaft lock, but when in the correct position, the cam locks wouldn't go in. Who is right and who is wrong ?, or should our locking kits be sent off to be calibrated every 6 months or 12 cars ?.

Ken

Osprey · « **Reply #14 on:** 22 August 2011, 22:05:06 »

I accept that not all locking kits are born equal but I can't see how a good locking kit can drift into inaccuracy unless it gets bent or obviously damaged.

So why doesn't your fit, I wonder. BDC instead of TDC? Left and right locks swapped?
:question

Ken T · « **Reply #15 on:** 22 August 2011, 22:11:07 »

It was only a few degrees out, not much but....

Ken

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #16 on:** 22 August 2011, 22:28:49 »

Whether the locking wedges will slide in is probably a reflection on how accurately they have been cast. Many kits aren't that great. It certainly doesn't mean the timing is incorrect. The only reliable indicator of the timing is by offering up the binocular shaped tool with the markings on.

300is · « **Reply #17 on:** 30 August 2011, 06:14:06 »

hi Guys,

Need some advise. How do i take out the oil pipes that feed into the oil cooler?
The one is easy to come out but the other one, i cant even get a spanner to fit in there

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #18 on:** 30 August 2011, 10:43:51 »

You'll be more likely to get a response if you start a new, appropriately titled, thread.

However, the answer to your question is that you need a "crow's foot" spanner or socket adaptor.

See the maintenance guide for more details.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1221081908

300is · « **Reply #19 on:** 30 August 2011, 12:56:06 »

Thank you 8-)

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Author Topic: Parts for X30Xe (Read 1745 times)