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[albitz]

At least it will be a cheap fix Al. A couple of bolts, 4 copper washers and 4 dowty washers.

[amba]

Coolant pipe O-ring.Dowty washers     4 required                   9128362
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolts                       2 required                   90424578
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolt copper seals       4 required                   11076852         

Found these numbers on old receipt I had when I last did my oil cooler so may be of help...total cost around £20-£25

[Big_Al]

Coolant pipe O-ring.Dowty washers     4 required                   9128362
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolts                       2 required                   90424578
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolt copper seals       4 required                   11076852         

Found these numbers on old receipt I had when I last did my oil cooler so may be of help...total cost around £20-£25

Got up this morning &  first thought was to ask for assistance with part numbers  . . . .   already here & waiting 

Once again Oof at it's best  . . .    thanks Andrew

[amba]

Good morning ,Al.

Something has been playing on my mind all night ...sad I know 

You say that the oil cooler was replaced by the previous owner ?.....How long have you had the car and how long has the oil leak been there.??

Reason I ask is if the person who replaced the oil cooler possibly only used the old copper washer on either side of the banjo bolts ,or worse still didn,t use any or just maybe a couple ,that would be a very clear reason how the leak has appeared wher it has as the pipes are not correctly sealed.

It is also slightly possible that if the cooler bolts were replaced when the oil cooler was changed also,the wrong length of bolt could have been used. I found that out when I did mine as the oil cooler banjo bolts are a different length to those for the coolant bridge..(.can,t remember which is longer/shorter ) but again posibly if the wrong length bolts have been used this would also cause the issue you have described as if too long a bolt has been used it wouldn,t fully torque down therefore the bolt would be loose in the thread if that makes sense.

Needs pulling apart for a proper look but sure it is quite a straight forward fix...its just you will need some bits which are dealer only .

[Big_Al]

Good morning ,Al.

Something has been playing on my mind all night ...sad I know 

You say that the oil cooler was replaced by the previous owner ?.....How long have you had the car and how long has the oil leak been there.??

Reason I ask is if the person who replaced the oil cooler possibly only used the old copper washer on either side of the banjo bolts ,or worse still didn,t use any or just maybe a couple ,that would be a very clear reason how the leak has appeared wher it has as the pipes are not correctly sealed.

It is also slightly possible that if the cooler bolts were replaced when the oil cooler was changed also,the wrong length of bolt could have been used. I found that out when I did mine as the oil cooler banjo bolts are a different length to those for the coolant bridge..(.can,t remember which is longer/shorter ) but again posibly if the wrong length bolts have been used this would also cause the issue you have described as if too long a bolt has been used it wouldn,t fully torque down therefore the bolt would be loose in the thread if that makes sense.

Needs pulling apart for a proper look but sure it is quite a straight forward fix...its just you will need some bits which are dealer only .

Andrew,  got car end of April. Purchased from another Oof member at a very reasonable price . Brought it knowing an oil leak was present but previous owner thought it was a cam cover leak.

Previous owner had maintained the car very well & I would think it unlikely that new washers were not used or the long/short  bolts fitted incorrectly when the oil cooler was changed. He may read this thread & respond , but I brought the car knowing of the leak & one or two other little niggles.

Brought the car with the intent of not using it until the few minor jobs were corrected . So done cam covers - TWICE replaced 2-4-6 cam cover as thought it may be warped. Still have an oil leak. Have now found leak to be oil cooler related .

When stripping down yesterday , I removed the black inlet bridge for the first time & thats when I discovered oil all around the oil cooler plate.

Of the two oil pipes & banjo unions in the V , the unions sit above a  slight circular "well" in the alloy casting ,the front one was totally oil free, but the rear well was full of oil . To me this must be where the leak is occuring.

To further this theory , when front of car is on ramps (as is now) the oil leak shows down the back of the the block as the engine is tilted backwards slightly. But when the car is on flat ground as normal the oil leak shows around the front of the engine as it is tilted slightly forward if this makes sense

Am going to replace both banjo bolts & all 4 copper washers  & the dowdy washers on the coolant bridge with GM parts & see what occurs from there .

Regards, Al

[amba]

Understand perfectly now ,Al and my money is on the banjo bolt washers either missing or not seated correctly .

When I cahnged mine despite my best efforts I was unable .....( or incompetant ) to be able to release the lower bolts on the 2 oil cooler pipes at the oil filter end so I resorted to gently bending the pipes.I was extremely carefull as I could understand the implications of not getting them back just right and having further issues.

In truth when I came to replace the 2 banjo bolts the fun and games started.The front pipe being the longest and having more flexibility went on ok and mangaed to get washers on either side of bolt and then gently finger tightened up into oil cooler as wary about cross threading into copper core.The back pipe being much shorter had less spring and was a right sod to get into position with bolt and washers all in place and applying pressure and gently finger tightening up.Manged to get it done by wedging bits of wood against pipe to ease leverage but it was a right game...I know it would have been so much easier with the bottom bolts freed allowing the pipes to move around unrestricted.

Now I am not casting disperssions on the member you bought from but if they had similar experiences as me that may be the root cause of the leak and why and how it is failing.
I was so carefull it was crazy to watch but did get it all back and sealed/torqued correctly so it is just possible that is where the problem might be.

[Big_Al]

Understand perfectly now ,Al and my money is on the banjo bolt washers either missing or not seated correctly .

When I cahnged mine despite my best efforts I was unable .....( or incompetant ) to be able to release the lower bolts on the 2 oil cooler pipes at the oil filter end so I resorted to gently bending the pipes.I was extremely carefull as I could understand the implications of not getting them back just right and having further issues.

In truth when I came to replace the 2 banjo bolts the fun and games started.The front pipe being the longest and having more flexibility went on ok and mangaed to get washers on either side of bolt and then gently finger tightened up into oil cooler as wary about cross threading into copper core.The back pipe being much shorter had less spring and was a right sod to get into position with bolt and washers all in place and applying pressure and gently finger tightening up.Manged to get it done by wedging bits of wood against pipe to ease leverage but it was a right game...I know it would have been so much easier with the bottom bolts freed allowing the pipes to move around unrestricted.

Now I am not casting disperssions on the member you bought from but if they had similar experiences as me that may be the root cause of the leak and why and how it is failing.
I was so carefull it was crazy to watch but did get it all back and sealed/torqued correctly so it is just possible that is where the problem might be.

Andrew,    Bearing in mind that I'm not removing the plate or cooler. With the coolant bridge released & out of the way do you think that the rear banjo bolt will just wind out allowing me to replace the washers &  then re fit a new  bolt & washers . Thinking that I would only need a slight bit of up & down movement on that pipe union & would not need to do any bending .

Also as the front banjo on the long pipe is oil tight  . .  I am tempted not to disturb that one & leave well alone .What do think ?

One last question  . . .   should you be able to see the copper washers when banjo bolt is assembled & torqued ?

Could e mail you a couple of pics if you want to have a look

Regards, Al

[Elite Pete]

There are 2 rubber seals on top of the oil cooler radiator, I would change those as well. I'll dig the part number out later. They are only about 12p each

[Darth Loo-knee]

There are 2 rubber seals on top of the oil cooler radiator, I would change those as well. I'll dig the part number out later. They are only about 12p each

He says he has an oil leak though Youth, also he does not want to remove the oil cooler or plate.

[Elite Pete]

There are 2 rubber seals on top of the oil cooler radiator, I would change those as well. I'll dig the part number out later. They are only about 12p each

He says he has an oil leak though Youth, also he does not want to remove the oil cooler or plate.

Didn't read that far youth   If it was me, I would reseal it while I was there though

[amba]

Only the Banjo bolt and copper washers seal for oil so you may just be able to undo the bolt and lift the pipe enough to get ..hopefully if they are fitted...the old copper washers and replace.

[Big_Al]

Update:   Just been out & had a look . .     overnight  the rear union has oil around it again . it seems to have been seeping from the joint & laying down in the circular "well" in the plate  casting below the banjo .

 I had dried & soaked the oil up when I left it last night . Seems pretty conclusive to me now that the leak is from there.

[The Red Baron]

hope youve got to the bottom of it now.

[amba]

Al.

You will have to remove the coolant bridge to get at the banjo bolt...removing the coolant bridge will require 4 new dowty washers.

I would be inclined to undo and remove the rear banjo bolt which should give you just enough flex to allow it to be lifted slightly and remove any washer ?? that is under the oil union.The one on the top of the bolt will come off when you pull out the banjo bolt.

Whilst its removed I would also check that the large cooler nut is tight although as you have had no coolant leaking sure that would be fine.For added peace of mind I would be inclined to replace both banjo bolts and there respective washers as if the back is leaking now you will kick yourself if a while down the line the front one then starts weeping oil...just my opinion as I am slighlty OTT when it comes to making sure things are sealed correctly.

Lets us know what you find when you remove the rear bolt..my money is on only 1 copper washer being fitted at the top.

[Big_Al]

Will let you know what I find  . . .