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[albitz]

Al,dont bother replacing the coolant bridge.Its juat a piece of cast metal,wont be anything to do with your problem. You just need to replece the crushable dowty washers afteryouve removed the  bridge to get at the cooler pipe.

[Big_Al]

OK. Drained coolant . . .     coolant bridge is off  . .   4 dowty washers  1 looked a bit dodgy but was not leaking water .

Undone rear oil banjo 2 washers one top one bottom  . . BUT  NOT copper    a silver colour

Undone front banjo  . .  same  . . 2 washers but NOT  copper  . . .  same silver colour as rear.

Can any confirm that these should be copper ?

Also Amba suggested that the 22mm  coolant bridge & 22mm  banjo bolts are different lengths . . .   not so here  . . both read 34mm total length on vernier

Can any one supply me part numbers for the coolant bridge bolts  & the banjo bolts  to see if the numbers differ ?

TIA Al

[Andy H]

Solid copper would be too hard for the banjo bolt. Composite copper would work (but composite copper washers probably had an asbestos core........)

Aluminium washers will be just about right to deform and provide a seal without overstressing the banjo bolts. (the banjo bolts are drilled lengthways & crossways so there really isn't much strength left).

[amba]

90424578 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER RADIATOR


12992646 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER BRIDGE

They are a slightly different Length,Al,but for the life of me I can,t remember which is longer/shorter.

[Darth Loo-knee]

They are an alloy looking colour not a copper colour

[Big_Al]

They are an alloy looking colour not a copper colour

Thanks Daz . . . .    Looks like correct ones were fitted then . Will get new ones from VX  tomorrow 

Is  torque setting 30Nm   for both banjo union hollow bolts & coolant bridge hollow bolts ?

[albitz]

I was remebereing them as copper tbh,but maybe I was thinking of the washers on thegearbox cooler to rad pipes ? 

[amba]

Yes,Al ,get them torqued down to 30nm both coolant bridge banjo bolts and oil coolers .

I also remember the washers were an alloy colour not copper so they are really a " crush washer" allowing the thin walled banjo bolt not to require a heavy torque setting to allow it to seal.

Surprised you found washers on both sides of the bolt ,as had expected 1 or more to be missing given the oil leak.

Were the bolts slightly loose then or the washers damaged in any way .?

[Darth Loo-knee]

They are an alloy looking colour not a copper colour

Thanks Daz . . . .    Looks like correct ones were fitted then . Will get new ones from VX  tomorrow 

Is  torque setting 30Nm   for both banjo union hollow bolts & coolant bridge hollow bolts ?

Yes both the Coolant Bridge banjo bolts and Oil Cooler banjo bolts need to be tightened to 30nm.
Don't forget you need
4 Coolant Bridge Dowty Washers ( washers with rubber in the centre )
4 Oil Cooler Pipe alloy O rings.

That is assuming you have not removed the Oil Cooler Plate that bolts to the engine block. If you have you need a tube of grey sealant (which is about a third of the length of a normal sealant tube)

[albitz]

If you want to check the torque for the big nuts (cooler to cover plate) they are also 30nm. Small bolts (cooler plate to block) are 20nm.

Casting to cylinder block (M8) bolts - is that coolant bridge bolts ? If so according to harry Haynes they should be 20nm.

[Big_Al]

oil cooler plate has not been touched . .  only the coolant bridge & the 2 oil pipe banjos.
 
Got all the details I need I think    going to Vx tomorrow for bits &  if they have them will try to get back together tomorrow after work

Thanks guys for all the advice .  . . .    fingers crossed this should cure it 

Regards,  Al

[amba]

Lets hope for a satisfactory conclusoin,Al.

[dbug]

Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes.  Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.

I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals.  With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ?  All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.

It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers.  HTH

If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!

[Big_Al]

Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes.  Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.

I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals.  With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ?  All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.

It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers. HTH

If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!

hi colin,
             have ordered 2 new banjo bolts all new washers for both coolant bridge (dowty)   & the banjos  from AndyC at Bury. My local VX dealer only had 1 of each of the washers in stock  can't see what use 1 would be to anyone 

Pulling my hair out on this oil leak now  . .  but think I may have found it with this .  Other than cam covers ( which have been done & are bone dry everywhere) I dont think there is anywhere where oil would leak & lay around the oil cooler plate in the V.

Can you remember how long the leak has been there from when you were using the car ?  is it fairly recent or not ?

You can may be  also advise what is the difference in the coolant bridge & the banjo bolts . They look identical to me & exactly the same length (34mm)   checked on  a vernier . I am going to have another close look now & will post a separate question on this to see what other Oofers  come up with   

[omega3000]

Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes.  Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.

I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals.  With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ?  All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.

It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers.  HTH

If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!

So the oil cooler bolts are slighlty smaller in length then