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[kcl]

Here is a curved ball for you.

The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....

No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts.  Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.

I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.

I'm NOT trying to say you are wrong but why would they then have two part numbers if the part is the same?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Here is a curved ball for you.

The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....

No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts.  Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.

I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.

I'm NOT trying to say you are wrong but why would they then have two part numbers if the part is the same?

If you look at the replacement parts they are totaly different in design to the factory fit.

Its wrong to assume that spares over the counter are the same as the factory items and if they can list fewer parts by suspersession of the older items they will 

[Big_Al]

Here is a curved ball for you.

The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....

No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts.  Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.

I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.

When they arrive just gonna fit the new oil pipe bolts & washers parts as supplied by Andy C & see if my leak is cured  . . .   

[kcl]

Here is a curved ball for you.

The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....

No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts.  Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.

I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.

I'm NOT trying to say you are wrong but why would they then have two part numbers if the part is the same?

If you look at the replacement parts they are totaly different in design to the factory fit.

Its wrong to assume that spares over the counter are the same as the factory items and if they can list fewer parts by suspersession of the older items they will 

That exactly was my point: why would they fit SAME parts in factory and then have TWO different codes/parts for replacement 

[Marks DTM Calib]

The inference would be that the 2.6 and 3.2 ones are different (for some unknown reason) and hence the supersession around 2000/2001?

[Andy H]

Banjo bolts for oil cooler pipes need to withstand oil pressure (60 psi?) oil temperature (120 deg C?) and the leverage on 18" long oil cooler pipes.

Coolant bridge banjo bolts need to withstand corrosion and coolant at 15 psi and 100 deg C (maximum).

It would make sense to me if the coolant bridge bolts were relatively weak but corrosion resistant while the oil cooler bolts were stronger but unable to withstand corrosion.

[dbug]

Here is a curved ball for you.

The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....

No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts.  Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.

I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.

Ah - can understand that now - as on oil cooler bolt would seal ok on coolant bridge but not vice versa.  OE - 4 x oil cooler bolts ?

A curved ball indeedy   

Al - fixed it yet?

[Big_Al]

Here is a curved ball for you.

The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....

No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts.  Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.

I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.

Ah - can understand that now - as on oil cooler bolt would seal ok on coolant bridge but not vice versa.  OE - 4 x oil cooler bolts ?

A curved ball indeedy   

Al - fixed it yet?

Oil pipe bolts with new washers arrived today , Fitted tonight, all assembled & torqued  as instructed , new dowty washers on the coolant bridge bolts & torqued up.

All back together & have run engine for 20 mins.  Cant see any leak as yet . Will leave over night & have a look in morning .

Will take car for 20 mile run tomorrow evening & see what we get . 

I'm hopeful it may be cured 

New bolts seemed exactly the same as what came off

[amba]

Fingers crossed for you,Al.

Whilst they may have appeared the same you do have the peace of mind that the job has been done properly using the correct parts so all things being equal problem should be solved.

[dbug]

Here is a curved ball for you.

The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....

No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts.  Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.

I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.

Ah - can understand that now - as on oil cooler bolt would seal ok on coolant bridge but not vice versa.  OE - 4 x oil cooler bolts ?

A curved ball indeedy   

Al - fixed it yet?

Oil pipe bolts with new washers arrived today , Fitted tonight, all assembled & torqued  as instructed , new dowty washers on the coolant bridge bolts & torqued up.

All back together & have run engine for 20 mins.  Cant see any leak as yet . Will leave over night & have a look in morning .

Will take car for 20 mile run tomorrow evening & see what we get . 

I'm hopeful it may be cured 

New bolts seemed exactly the same as what came off

Sounds promising Al 

[Big_Al]

The oil Leak

Dam ,bug*er , sh*t, bollo*ks  it's still leaking as before , just cannot see where it is coming from 

Have now dropped car off of the ramps it was on .run it up for 15 mins & was just going to take it for a 20 mile run , had a last look & oil is showing on the top of the sump below the pulleys again and dripping off of the the two torx headed bolts on the bottom of the bell housing. 

Don,t know what the next move to try & trace it  is really .

If  I strip down  plenum, injectors & inlet bridge & oil is in the V again around the oil cooler plate, the leak  must be in that area.

Bit fed up with it all now to be honest 

Think I may just scrap it 

[amba]

Gutted for you,Al.

I suppose the only real way to see if its still leaking from that oil union feedvis to pull the top apart yet again.

Only things now left are the oil feed pipe and the oil cooler its self..Suppose it could be either really as the feed pipe could possibly not be sealing flat against the crush washers or maybe the thread in the oil cooler is slightly damaged but if you have torqued down the bolt it must have enough thread to bite.

Don,t fancy replacing those oil feed pipes as think they are secured by a bracket at the back of the block and access to that would be very restricted with engine in place.Suppose you could always use a flexy pipe feed assuming you can get a connection at the block.

If all else fails bypass the water cooled oil cooler and fit a retro fit elsewhere although this is starting to get pricey and again time consuming.

Gutted for you,Mate

[Big_Al]

Still thinking over what next move is .  The problem is, & has been right from the start, is that with the engine running, I cannot actually see where the leak is occuring .

One last discription of what I can see:  With the front of the car up on drive up ramps, engine running, from underneath looking with an inspection lamp . Oil is showing in a bubbling & dropplet fashion  at a 1 o'clock position above  from the oil filter & crank sensor on the block casting.
This is in the area of the exhaust manifold & cannot see clearly where it is coming from as silver heat shields are there. From there it runs down the engine block & drips off the 2 torx bolts under the bell housing. Most oil leaks from omegas drip from these 2 bolts as they are the lowest point .

When car is off of ramps & on ground the oil seems to show more on the front of the engine below the pulleys on top of the front sump . starting on passenger side & within 10 miles has run to cover the complete front of the sump. but also still showing a smaller drip from the bellhousing area

My leak must be occuring high up on the engine somewhere as the first visable sign is as explained above (under rear of exhaust manifold)

Thought of the 2 oil feed pipes themselves leaking somewhere behind the engine but there does not seem to be any oil running down these towards where the pipes terminate by the oil filter .

Yet another stripdown will show if oil is laying in the V below the inlet bridge & if so leak must be around the oil  cooler area as oil would not end up there from a lower position leak .

As said above the frustrating thing is I cannot see where it is starting from .

Any help or suggestions at all would be great guys , but guess we have exhausted most options 

TIA      Al      

[amba]

I assume since you have fitted the new banjo bolts / "0" ring crush washers to the oil cooler feeds and put it all back together you havne,t established if this oil leak is from the same place as before?

Think best course of action is to take all bits off so you can see back to the oil cooler pipes and see if the oil is still wher it was before the work.  If it is the only logical place for oil to be leaking there is associated with the oil cooler or its feed pipes.

At the moment we are just assuming it is "Still " leaking ..need to eliminate each place 1 at a time.

[Andy H]

Still thinking over what next move is .  The problem is, & has been right from the start, is that with the engine running, I cannot actually see where the leak is occuring .

One last discription of what I can see:  With the front of the car up on drive up ramps, engine running, from underneath looking with an inspection lamp . Oil is showing in a bubbling & dropplet fashion  at a 1 o'clock position above  from the oil filter & crank sensor on the block casting.
This is in the area of the exhaust manifold & cannot see clearly where it is coming from as silver heat shields are there. From there it runs down the engine block & drips off the 2 torx bolts under the bell housing. Most oil leaks from omegas drip from these 2 bolts as they are the lowest point .

When car is off of ramps & on ground the oil seems to show more on the front of the engine below the pulleys on top of the front sump . starting on passenger side & within 10 miles has run to cover the complete front of the sump. but also still showing a smaller drip from the bellhousing area

My leak must be occuring high up on the engine somewhere as the first visable sign is as explained above (under rear of exhaust manifold)

Thought of the 2 oil feed pipes themselves leaking somewhere behind the engine but there does not seem to be any oil running down these towards where the pipes terminate by the oil filter .

Yet another stripdown will show if oil is laying in the V below the inlet bridge & if so leak must be around the oil  cooler area as oil would not end up there from a lower position leak .

As said above the frustrating thing is I cannot see where it is starting from .

Any help or suggestions at all would be great guys , but guess we have exhausted most options 

TIA      Al    

Hope I am wrong but IIRC the oil feed to the cylinder head is in the rear corner of the head gasket (so in that general area)

Alternatively the 'new' oil cooler may have a manufacturing defect (maybe the thread wasn't tapped deep enough so even the correct bolt bottoms before clamping the banjo tight or the casting is porous)

Or the banjo to pipe joint has been stressed to the point where it has started leaking.