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[robson]

where exactly are you another pair of eyes may help

[allen25]

I've just ordered the V6 DVD and will have a go at fitting a new pump, i'm pretty sure it's coming from the front of the engine and not the rad, is there anything else in the front of the engine  that it could be other than the water pump, it leaks out really fast when I pour water in the coolant tank ?

Lots of places for leaks but does sound like it is the pump. When considering the water pump, if you are on a slight incline, front of the car at the highest point, the likelihood is that you will still see dripping from the bottom of the block at the front. The pump is at the front middle half way down and if leaking from there the coolant will flow to the block and down the front dripping from the oil sump union area at the front. If it is anything to do with the thermostat area or oil cooler cover etc stuff above I would expect that to then naturally flow to the rear of the 'V' and drip at the rear. Not conclusive but is the case with mine. If it is in the rad area, IMO it is unlikely to find it's way to the leak area you described.

[Mart280]

where exactly are you another pair of eyes may help

Hastings and thanks allen25

[Mart280]

Thanks to OOF for the quick dispatch of the v6 DVD  I was a bit unwell last week so only started on the car today, I got as far as loosening the bolts on the pulley wheels before you take the aux belt off, however the last nut or bolt on the power steering pulley (I think) has been rounded off, they are not like an ordinary shaped nut but I had the correct socket a sort of star shaped one with E10 on it, I have spent a couple of hours trying to make a socket fit banging filing and hammering (not much room) but I've made it worse, I cant get mole grips or stilsons on it and I dont know anyone who could weld a nut on, does anyone know of a tool that could the job bearing in mind there is no room to get a drill in there.

[robson]

Have you tried a cold chisel to get it started

[Mart280]

I have been having a go with an old screw driver, I dont have a chisel long enough to get in there and hammer it, I have a gas bottle but am worried of damaging the aux belt if I apply too much heat or will be it ok ? I cant remove the belt otherwise the pully wheel rotates freely, I suppose I can get a new aux belt if I melt it.

[robson]

You could grind the head off which would allow you to get the pulley off but then you have to remove the remaining stud

[terry paget]

It could be a split hose, or a loose hose clip. When I had a leaking water pump on a 3 litre V6, There was a yellow deposit at the bottom of the front cam belt cover, and With engine running I could see water dripping out of the bottom of the cam belt cover. Easy to see with a pit, but worth checking before you buy a pump and strip it all down. I have know side arms on the header tank develop leaks too.

[terry paget]

It might help retightening the other screws on the pulley. Looking at mine, E10 is the right socket. A small stilson would be my suggestion. Good luck!

[aaronjb]

These things are a god-send if you can get a set with the right size: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-467893-Piece-Damaged-Remover/dp/B001C7T20E

I have Irwin ones which may well be better made but only go down to 10mm unless you get the expansion set with the 5/16" one in - I think the 9mm one in the above ought to fit an E10 nut..

[Mart280]

Thanks guys, I had a look at that Irwin set in a tool shop yesterday but the smallest one is too big, same with the silverline, I did find a Draper 9 bit set online but the trouble is there isnt much left of the nut which resembles a nut anymore, it's tapered off quite a bit now, I have some small stillsons but cant get them to grip same with mole grips, mates coming round with a small grinder later so I will see how we get on.

[amba]

Put the other 2 bolts back in so the pulley is secured in 3 places and give the damaged nut a good soak in plus gas or penetrating oil and leave for a while to soak in

Rotate the pulley so you can get the best access to the head of the bolt given the limited space to work and then cut a thin line through the face of the head with a small hack saw.

That should then allow yo to either get a stubby screw driver socket on it or maybe a small angle screw driver.If that fails you will have created a ridge for a larger screw driver to catch in and may be able to shock it to move with a few sharp hammer blows on the screwdriver head.

They are not on there that tight.( assuming the last owner didn,t swing on the wrench when last fitted ) and silly statement but make totally sure you are undoing the bolt not just tighteneing it up further.

Best of luck..it will come out...when you refit it apply a little copper slip on the new bolts and only tighten to the specified torque

[Mart280]

It's still in there  I've cut a groove in it but cant get it to turn or move at all, how hard or easy is it to take the rad out, that would give me a load more room to tackle it head on.

[albitz]

Not that difficult.A bit of faffing around,but nothing technical.
Could try removing the multi ram bagpipes for better access if you haven't already.

[Mart280]

I'm going to remove the rad but cant find a guide, anything really important I should know chaps ?