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[Andy89]

I would get a jack that holds the engine in place too, to release the tension on the splines, and then try to jiggle the gearbox out (though I've never use a jack on the engine, just one to help with the weight of the gearbox)
I can't seem to understand which plate you are talking about, the plate for the gearshift on the rear of the box?
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/Andygun89/DSCF2406_zps3ecb922c.jpg

for there to be any tension on the pressure plate, the gearbox would have to be caught on something so it can't go back in
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/Andygun89/DSCF2384_zps6495a978.jpg (the bearing on the pic is spaced out to fit calibra flywheel/clutch)

If the gearbox would be caught on the end of the spigot bearing or something, there should be quite a difference in the gap between the gearbox and engine, or it should not align with the engine.

[henryd]

You guys talking about the pilot bushing?

Spigot bushearing innit

Corrected for the Omega application

Ok then

[terry paget]

Thanks gents. I agree, Kevin, if the g/b input shaft has dragged the friction plate out of line with the spigot bearing there is no way it will go back in. It looks like I may have wrecked it. At the moment the gap is too big to get any bolts in. I will seek longer bolts and see if they will pull things together again.

[Andy H]

While the steel plate was still in place you applied some force which (probably) pushed the clutch friction plate offcentre (upwards).

If you can apply a similar force in the other direction (downwards) to push the plate back you should get things moving again.

Hoiking gearboxes in and out while lying under a car can be a miserable exercise which seems to call for the strength of a weightlifter and the finesse of a brainsurgeon. You have my sympathy - don't give up

Next time try supporting the gearbox near to the bell housing and alternately raise & lower the tail of the box. If the clutch plate is off centre it should get re-centred. If it is stuck on the splines the rocking should free it.

Above all make sure that you don't get hurt. Don't worry to much about the gearbox, it is replaceable (and pretty robust).

 

[terry paget]

I would get a jack that holds the engine in place too, to release the tension on the splines, and then try to jiggle the gearbox out (though I've never use a jack on the engine, just one to help with the weight of the gearbox)
I can't seem to understand which plate you are talking about, the plate for the gearshift on the rear of the box?
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/Andygun89/DSCF2406_zps3ecb922c.jpg

for there to be any tension on the pressure plate, the gearbox would have to be caught on something so it can't go back in
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/Andygun89/DSCF2384_zps6495a978.jpg (the bearing on the pic is spaced out to fit calibra flywheel/clutch)

If the gearbox would be caught on the end of the spigot bearing or something, there should be quite a difference in the gap between the gearbox and engine, or it should not align with the engine.

Thanks for pics. The plate is not on them. Loking at firct pic, plate connects the base of the gearchange lever with the rear of the box. It lies close to the car floor, above the box. Two screws attach it to the box, top rear, above the prop shaft output.

[terry paget]

Thanks, Andy H. It makes sense. Trouble is, if I have pushed the friction plate upwards, to pull it down again I have to push g/b tail up higher than the bracket allows. I suppose I can remove the bracket, recalling recent photographs.

As you say, safety is paramount. Also it is hard to exert much force lying under the car. I have a pit. It may be more sense to lower the car onto its wheels and manoevre it over the pit to heave the g/b tail about. Only worry then is that the g/b might fall into the pit, but at the moment that is the least of my worrries.

[Kevin Wood]

You could just rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and see if that buys you anything.

[terry paget]

Thanks Kevin. rotated crankshaft 180 degrees, nothing happened.
I now have the car back on its wheels and over the pit. I managed to get the bolts in the rear g/b mounting to support it.
Pictures follow of front and rear of gearbox right hand side, showing front to left of bolt hole and rear to right of bolt hole. https://www.dropbox.com/s/a3lxlag80iobiha/GBOXrhsREAR.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/373y2okznhdmw7m/GBfrontRHS.jpg

[Andy89]

Looks like the box is aligning well with the engine? (which means the clutch has not moved, don't think i can either? since it can manage 270nm in rotation)
Is there any difference in the space between the box and engine?
Can you take some overall pictures front and back?

[terry paget]

Thanks Andy, in fact looking the holes, the rear is right of position and the front is left of position. I have not tried heaving/bashing it straight yet, I am taking a break from it. Current advice is to support the front of the gearbox and heave the tail about. What good this will do is anyone's guess. Another idea is to obtain some longer bolts and pull the g/b and block together, if possible all the way. I am open to suggestions. There was never a bang, like something breaking. I am still hopeful that simply getting everything back into line again will allow it to come apart smoothly. After all, clutch changing is a regular service job.

[dbug]

Thanks Kevin. rotated crankshaft 180 degrees, nothing happened.
I now have the car back on its wheels and over the pit. I managed to get the bolts in the rear g/b mounting to support it.
Pictures follow of front and rear of gearbox right hand side, showing front to left of bolt hole and rear to right of bolt hole. https://www.dropbox.com/s/a3lxlag80iobiha/GBOXrhsREAR.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/373y2okznhdmw7m/GBfrontRHS.jpg

Looking at 2nd photo, still looks slightly out of alignment.
Suggest position a jack at front of g/box on bellhousing to support only and waggle back end of g/box to align - you should feel it move when correctly aligned.

[terry paget]

Right, dbug. 1st photo shows the plate with a lug descending which should be screwed to the g/p protrusion, , rh end of pic2nd photo shows the bellhousing, with a screw failing to align with the thread in the crankcase. Both shots are taken from below, and on the rh of the car. So both ends are off centre in different directions.

[05omegav6]

Right, dbug. 1st photo shows the plate with a lug descending which should be screwed to the g/p protrusion, , rh end of pic2nd photo shows the bellhousing, with a screw failing to align with the thread in the crankcase. Both shots are taken from below, and on the rh of the car. So both ends are off centre in different directions.

Ignore the position of the plate at the rear end, although connected to the floor pan, there's a fair bit of play at the point it bolts to the gearbox

Ensure the box is in neutral, drop the jack just enough to clear the box, rotate it about 5° clockwise then re support it  near to the front end without fouling the gap in front of the box. Drop the rear mounting and move the box left/right until the gap at the front is even side to side. Once square, you should then be able to move it either back home or off

[terry paget]

You could just rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and see if that buys you anything.

Silly me. You mean that if the friction plate is off centre then as the crankshaft turns the gearbox tail might turn with it. I must try that again, perhaps supporting front of g/b with back unsupported. And if it is off centre, I could arrange that by pulling g/b tail down I could re-centre it.

[Kevin Wood]

You could just rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and see if that buys you anything.

Silly me. You mean that if the friction plate is off centre then as the crankshaft turns the gearbox tail might turn with it. I must try that again, perhaps supporting front of g/b with back unsupported. And if it is off centre, I could arrange that by pulling g/b tail down I could re-centre it.

Yep, that's what I had in mind.