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[Seth]

Anyways, it was the 30amp fuse. Replaced that and the fans come to life.

The car is still running too hot for my liking. 95'c but then it just sort of hovers around that mark.

So that's:

A flushed out Rad / block etc.
A new Water Pump.
A new Thermostat.
A new Rad Fan Switch.
50/50 mix Coolant.
No leaks.
No Mayo.
Big fat pipe does become firm when the temps are that high but you can still press it.

I am at a loss. Any suggestions other than a can of petrol and a match?

Mine behaves similarly, though normal running is around the 92 mark.
Show it a climb however, and it'll quickly rise to the 100 mark, especially with the caravan in tow. Once over the climb, then the temp will quickly settle down to 92 degrees again, and I fitted a brand-new rad too! Both fans running make little or no difference, and my own opinion is that the rad is simply not man enough for the job on 2.5TDs.

[TheBoy]

Sethsmate - do you have viscous one, and undertray?

[Spearmint]

Theboy, would you recommend ditching the undertray?

[TheBoy]

Theboy, would you recommend ditching the undertray?

For the past couple of months, I've been racking my brains as to why my tractor always stayed at midpoint, no matter how hard it was driven. Never got it above 96/97 on gauge, despite thrashing the nuts off it up and down mountain passes.

It did have a very well maintained cooling system, but others here have as well.  Mine ran without the viscous, without the dowling around the viscous, and with no undertray.

Maybe someone with a good tractor (ie sethsmate, as he has new rad on his) could try removing these, and seeing what happens?

[Omegatoy]

mine has no undertray and at around 40 degree in spain, it runs lovely at 90ish, full bore up a long hill with i.c fan on it rises to around 95/96
as sson as i hit the top and back off it comes right back down to normal hope that helps !!

[Seth]

Theboy, would you recommend ditching the undertray?

For the past couple of months, I've been racking my brains as to why my tractor always stayed at midpoint, no matter how hard it was driven. Never got it above 96/97 on gauge, despite thrashing the nuts off it up and down mountain passes.

It did have a very well maintained cooling system, but others here have as well.  Mine ran without the viscous, without the dowling around the viscous, and with no undertray.

Maybe someone with a good tractor (ie sethsmate, as he has new rad on his) could try removing these, and seeing what happens?

Right J, mine's still got the viscous fitted, (though I've yet to hear it 'kick-in'), the undertray's been removed, and there's no cowl around the viscous.

Normal running is 92 on the gauge, but'll rise to the 100 mark on climbs especially with the caravan in tow. Once over the climb, it'll quickly revert to 92 again. Trusted friends in the trade suggest that this is normal. They quickly point out that as the system is pressurized, then as long as the needle doesn't get to the red (110), which it doesn't, then there's nothing to worry about. Whilst I don't disagree, 100 is still a little close for comfort for my liking.

All that said, I'm planning on removing the 'stat and water pump, and back-flushing the block via the block drain plug. I'm thinking that there could be a restriction somewhere within, such as bits of the effing water pump impeller - what say you ...... ?

[Spearmint]

Right, that's next on my list when I can be arsed. Ripping out the undertray.

Skyline doesn't have one and it's running temps are phenomenal but then it does have a much larger sump / rad / oil cooler than normal for trackwork etc.

[platty]

Right J, mine's still got the viscous fitted, (though I've yet to hear it 'kick-in'), the undertray's been removed, and there's no cowl around the viscous.

The viscous doesn't kick in does it? It turns constantly with the engine as far as I am aware.  :-/ (sapping power and making noise along the way)

I don't run a viscous, but still have the cowl and under tray in place and I cannot get the gauge to go above 96/97 no matter how hard I try.

Never done anything to the cooling system except replace the 'stat about 6 months ago because it was running too cool.

[TheBoy]

Right J, mine's still got the viscous fitted, (though I've yet to hear it 'kick-in'), the undertray's been removed, and there's no cowl around the viscous.

The viscous doesn't kick in does it? It turns constantly with the engine as far as I am aware.  :-/ (sapping power and making noise along the way)

I don't run a viscous, but still have the cowl and under tray in place and I cannot get the gauge to go above 96/97 no matter how hard I try.

Never done anything to the cooling system except replace the 'stat about 6 months ago because it was running too cool.

If your viscous runs all the time and 'roars' even when cold, its breaked.  Yes, viscous fans will always turn, but they 'lock up' when hot.

[Spearmint]

Well, the car is still pushing its luck with me WRT this snag.

I have had some suggestions of others experiences on other marques with the same snag.

Rad cap? OR Viscous Fan just isn't drawing enough air through?

[TheBoy]

Both suggestions are ill conceived.

If it was rap cap, it would blow its load as soon as it warmed up.  Presumably its not leaking.

The TD is absolutely fine without viscous.  Its simply not needed in this country.  No small fan can drag in as much air as a car does at 70mph.



Reasons these engine overheat is mostly down to poor maintenence:

• Rad has silted up due to poor coolant maintenence. Remove rad and use strong chemicals may help, but in my case, had to get new rad
• Waterpump not having full compliment of impellor fins (common BMW issue)
• Poor oil servicing (VERY, VERY, VERY common on these engines, remember, BMW state 4.5k oil change interval!!) leads to blocked piston cooling jets (these engines have oil jets at bottom of each cylinder).  Changing oil won't cure, it needs a strong oil flush or a strip down

Don't go wasting your time and money down other avenues...

[Spearmint]

Now it's mentioned it is due an oil change, last time it was done at about 111K and the car is now sat at 114.5K.

So lots of flush and new oil then.

Hopefully, next time I update this thread it'll be to say the snag has cleared. Cheers Theboy. 

[TheBoy]

Now it's mentioned it is due an oil change, last time it was done at about 111K and the car is now sat at 114.5K.

So lots of flush and new oil then.

Hopefully, next time I update this thread it'll be to say the snag has cleared. Cheers Theboy. 

You'll need some pretty strong oil flush to clear away the sludge ('black death' it seems to be known as in BMW/Range Rover forums).  Omegatoy got me some a while back, would strip skin from your bones

[DJ Pete]

Now it's mentioned it is due an oil change, last time it was done at about 111K and the car is now sat at 114.5K.

So lots of flush and new oil then.

Hopefully, next time I update this thread it'll be to say the snag has cleared. Cheers Theboy. 

You'll need some pretty strong oil flush to clear away the sludge ('black death' it seems to be known as in BMW/Range Rover forums).  Omegatoy got me some a while back, would strip skin from your bones

What flush should we be using then?

[TheBoy]

Now it's mentioned it is due an oil change, last time it was done at about 111K and the car is now sat at 114.5K.

So lots of flush and new oil then.

Hopefully, next time I update this thread it'll be to say the snag has cleared. Cheers Theboy. 

You'll need some pretty strong oil flush to clear away the sludge ('black death' it seems to be known as in BMW/Range Rover forums).  Omegatoy got me some a while back, would strip skin from your bones

What flush should we be using then?

Can't remember name, but it was stuff you ran at idle for 15-20mins, then immediately drained.