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[alunonhisown]

Right, a good nights sleep and a cup of freshly ground coffee and I am right for whatever this car and the world can throw at me.
I believe that the smell is coming from the exhaust and not engine compartment.
The EML does not flash, it stays on constant.
The car only 'shakes' when I put my foot down on the drive and rev the car to say 5-6000 revs, I was trying to see if the EML would go out, silly me I know, but was trying anything, not knowing anything, so, there you go.
I will start the car now, it has been stood for a good 18 hours since I started it and report back about the fuel smell.

[guncharmer]

I would have both coil packs replaced,the car has done over 100k miles,the coil packs appear to have been contaminated with moisture and oil at various times.If they are the originals then maybe time has taken its toll,if they have been replaced at any time then are they genuine.Either way contamination by water or oil in plug wells and that seems to be recent can cause(lets call it strain) to internal circuitry.If that doesnt provide a cure then put the old ones back in and sell the new ones that way keeping the costs of this method of attempted cure down.

[guncharmer]

And a clean up of the engine earths though i dont know where these are as i have not had to go looking yet but i am sure somebody will point them out.

[Seth]

And a clean up of the engine earths though i dont know where these are as i have not had to go looking yet but i am sure somebody will point them out.

Easy to eliminate earthing problems with a jump-lead.
Securely clip one end to, say a manifold stud/nut, then clamp the other end to the battery negative post.

[JamesV6CDX]

I have splashed out on something I personally need.

A peice of kit that can read, reset fault codes, and display a range of real-time live data on any ODBII enabled cars. (Needed it for the peugeot!)

Not quite the real-deal such as tech2, but nonetheless would give a very good indication of feedback from various sensors and components, as it does live data.

Happy to hook it up and get some readings , it would not cost anything and will provide clarification on the way forwards

Just need to sort out a convenient time

[TheBoy]

Sorry, just seen this thread - I'm sure people can appreciate my mind is on other things than OOF, seeing as my own car is 90 miles away, and in a bit of a mess currently.  In all honesty, I'm now tied up until April.

Not sure how Kevin Wood is fixed either, seeing as he has had a prang in his beloved car, and needs to spend time stripping the car down to get the chassis off to Westfield for repair.

I really hope we are not expected to drop everything to help others when we clearly have major car issues of our own.



So, forget the codes for a minute, lets talk about symptoms.

Idle (cold)?
Idle (hot)?
General driving?


If the car appears to be running OK, but throwing a P0300 (but no other P030x codes), worth double checking the engine earths.


Once you have done that, consider taking offer from local member to do a code check and a live data read.

[Andy B]

....
I really hope we ..... are expected to drop everything to help others when we clearly have major car issues of our own.

 .......

Have you missed 'NOT' out?       

[TheBoy]

....
I really hope we ..... are expected to drop everything to help others when we clearly have major car issues of our own.

 .......

Have you missed 'NOT' out?       

See, my mind is too focused on other things

Edited my orig post

[Lazydocker]

....
I really hope we ..... are expected to drop everything to help others when we clearly have major car issues of our own.

 .......

Have you missed 'NOT' out?       

See, my mind is too focused on other things

Edited my orig post

No... Neither/none of you are! But if I can help in any way give me a shout

[3.2omegaestate]

I have a 3.2 auto, and having dome cambelt and covers with a service (new GM plugs etc) at 68000 miles I noted that one of the coil packs had rusty deposits on a spark plug 'boot'. As I didn't have a replacement to hand the original coil packs were used. Within a day of doing the work  it developed multiple misfires etc. Got the codes out using the pedal trick and got the 0300 codes and others relating to misfire were present. When it happened, I was driving at low speed and the EML flashed for about 10 secs and then stayed on.
I replaced the coil packs  on both sides and normal service was resumed....
There was no oil in the plug wells, and it would appear that prior to me purchasing the car in 2007 the engine had been steam cleaned/jet washed (very clean and dressed up with a back to black spray). The water had obviously caused the premature failing of the coil pack.
I am in no way advocating the replacement of parts without correct and complete diagnosis, however it would appear that the symptons you have described are identical to mine. Unfortunately miggys are now older vehicles and are starting to show their age, by parts failing, that will require replacement.
On old car with distributors and contact breakers, ignition components (points, rotor arm and distributor caps) were service items to be replaced at regular service intervals, sometimes yearly.
The coil packs on the 3.2 replaced these ignition components and do not require replacement at service intervals. However they do fail and will need replacing at some point in the vehicles life especially if it has completed a significant mileage which I would suggest in excess of 100000 miles is. Remember as well it is a second hand vehicle and although you may have a service history you do not know how it has been maintained (service records can be ficticious) and you must expect components to fail and the associated worry that goes with that
Good luck