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Something like that! Not sure how well it will corner--------

(head gasket on these is done without removing the chain assembly and timing cover).

I really can't picture how this is done. 

How do you remove the head and cams without taking the cam sprockets with it?

Cam sprockets are unbolted and have the chain on, tension is removed from the tensioner and the sprockets sit in a casting on the timing cover, head slides out and up (having disconnected the inlet, exhaust, water outlet, a few water pumps bolts, and some timing cover bolts.



On re-fit, crank t 90degrees before TDC (all pistons to the half way), head on, set the cams and lock them, bring the pistons to TDC and and lock the crank. Cam sprockets bolted on, tensioner released and tighten the bolts. 

If they want to be ignorant, obnoxious knobjockeys, then let them, and undertake them as safely as possible.

Undertaking is only considered dangerous, and therefore illegal, if you repeatedly weave in and out of the traffic in a erratic manner.

In short, pass on the left without dwadling, dithering or speeding and stay in the left lane for as long as physically possible without tailgating the vehicle in front.

Getting all pissed off about it isn't a solution to anything.

Nevermind

Hence I always suggest people with GM ones refurb them, rather than replace with crap.  Its a bit extra work, but cheaper and will last longer.

Is there any easy to spot tell tale that they are original GM? GM logo somewhere?

They'll look like they were rescued from the Titanic; rusty and covered in crap off the road. You're getting bogged down in details that are unimportant.


You've got new wishbones, so fit the front poly bushes and get them on the car. They'll be an improvement. If the removed ones look vaguely saveable, keep them. If they don't, bin them. To me, the only thing the originals do better than refurbished ones is that the ball joints are rivetted on, not bolted.

Also a moot point once they've been replaced as there isn't a single supplier of ball joints that supplies them with rivets.

And being bolted on actually makes them MORE serviceable, not less

Does the rev counter do that without driving?

And what does the battery gauge do when the rev counter fluctuates?

Is Fuse 12 intact?

Hence I always suggest people with GM ones refurb them, rather than replace with crap.  Its a bit extra work, but cheaper and will last longer.

Is there any easy to spot tell tale that they are original GM? GM logo somewhere?

They'll look like they were rescued from the Titanic; rusty and covered in crap off the road. You're getting bogged down in details that are unimportant.


You've got new wishbones, so fit the front poly bushes and get them on the car. They'll be an improvement. If the removed ones look vaguely saveable, keep them. If they don't, bin them. To me, the only thing the originals do better than refurbished ones is that the ball joints are rivetted on, not bolted.

 Overboard

That's why I am building my 51 Austin Countryman with all the Omega running gear, looks stock but far from it.

I bet that will go well when you're finished 

About 200bhp/tonne?

Man