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[terry paget]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Changing wishbones, track road and drop links has got me nowhere, steering still wanders. I now suspect joint between steering box and central track rod, which is very sloppy. But I can't get it off. Haynes says use a suitable puller. I do not possess a suitable puller; access is poor and gap between item is too narrow for the oullers I have. Would heat help? I have done this job before and the arm fell off easily - not this time. Any suggestions? Pic follows.

[Stige]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61i7YSfl0aL._SY355_.jpg

? Best tool ever.

[Nick W]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61i7YSfl0aL._SY355_.jpg

? Best tool ever.

Two big hammers.
Don't be gentle with them either.

[cam.in.head]

Yes what he said ! .. They seperate as you would with a track rod end but as you say access is limited. Last time i did one i used a tapered fork seperator inbetween.(nothing to damage cos its scrap anyway)to give it some tension and then the two hammer method as per normal.these joints only rotate on one plane so should never have any movement sideways at all. They are usually very long lived .ive seen them last 200k on carltons and senators if the rubber boots are good.ive also heard of aftermarket replacements not lasting long or even having a little twisting movement when new so it would be nice to fit a genuine gm but they can be expensive .used gm would be fine but obviously check for careless removal/damaged boots

[terry paget]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61i7YSfl0aL._SY355_.jpg

? Best tool ever.

I have several of those, tried the lot. Trouble is the gap between the 2 arms is so small they don't go in. The arm is only supported by the steering box, so it yields.

[terry paget]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61i7YSfl0aL._SY355_.jpg

? Best tool ever.

Two big hammers.
Don't be gentle with them either.

You mean like the guide recommends to remove the drop arm. Access is bad and I could not imagine any way to spring the joint, like the chisel does on the drop arm. Also I only have one big hammer.

[terry paget]

Yes what he said ! .. They seperate as you would with a track rod end but as you say access is limited. Last time i did one i used a tapered fork seperator inbetween.(nothing to damage cos its scrap anyway)to give it some tension and then the two hammer method as per normal.these joints only rotate on one plane so should never have any movement sideways at all. They are usually very long lived .ive seen them last 200k on carltons and senators if the rubber boots are good.ive also heard of aftermarket replacements not lasting long or even having a little twisting movement when new so it would be nice to fit a genuine gm but they can be expensive .used gm would be fine but obviously check for careless removal/damaged boots

The others I have replaced were, as you said, quite stiff. This one is amazingly sloppy, simply loose.  I had an Omega fail MOT 2 years back on play in this joint ; it came off easily enough, New Vx costs over £200, Lemforder did one for £50, which I fitted; within a year it was loose.

[Nick W]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61i7YSfl0aL._SY355_.jpg

? Best tool ever.

Two big hammers.
Don't be gentle with them either.

You mean like the guide recommends to remove the drop arm. Access is bad and I could not imagine any way to spring the joint, like the chisel does on the drop arm. Also I only have one big hammer.

Trying to release tapers with either a wedge or lever type splitter is much harder work than springing them apart with two hammers. Buy another hammer. A big one.Your balljoint problems will disappear.

It's been years since I used any of the splitters that I own.

[terry paget]

Thanks to all for advice, I am defeated. I have a second big hammer at work, I will bring it home tomorrow; my worry is access.

[Bigron]

I'm sure that you already know this, but the larger hammer goes behind the hoint and whack it with the smaller one.
Just like the old joke about "bricking the camel", don't get your thumbs caught in the middle! 

Ron.

[robson]

No wonder it wont move if he hits the hoint

[Stige]

I'm sure that you already know this, but the larger hammer goes behind the hoint and whack it with the smaller one.
Just like the old joke about "bricking the camel", don't get your thumbs caught in the middle! 

Ron.

Can you paint a picture? I dont seem to understand how you mean

[Bigron]

Er, is this a wind-up? If not, I'll explain the complete joke, if you are too young to remember it! 

Ron.

[mandula]

This is how I finally did it 

Tried to use force to get it off, but finally I was defeated and needed to use some brains (or something like that).
I used angle grinder and small blade to cut it from the ball joint's base, just enough that I could then break that base by hammering where tie rod end is attached. It was really easy job done like that, but only works if you are planning to replace that central rod 

[terry paget]

This is how I finally did it 

Tried to use force to get it off, but finally I was defeated and needed to use some brains (or something like that).
I used angle grinder and small blade to cut it from the ball joint's base, just enough that I could then break that base by hammering where tie rod end is attached. It was really easy job done like that, but only works if you are planning to replace that central rod 

Thank you. You angle grind the end of the tie rod around the ball joint, then hammer it until the ball is released. This still leaves the pin stuck in the taper of the arm from the steering box. You do not say how you remove the pin from the arm, though I imagine you could easily use a lever and screw splitter for this.