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[rockindave]

Hi all,might be a stupid question but are there any differences in the rear pads on the MV6 or are they all the same...Thanks in advance Dave

[amba]

Pads are all the same across the range/engine size.

On vented discs the securing pins are longer,so if yours are shot or badly rusted,be aware that they are difficult to get spares as I found out last year.VX order direct from Germany .

[chrisgixer]

Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

Mine are vented.

[chrisgixer]

Depends which mv6? Not all are vented.

Or specifically if vented or not depends on the appropriate length of pin and fitting kit. As amba. Pads same.

Mine are vented.

Is yours the same as the op's?

[VXL V6]

If the OP could advise which engine is in his vehicle it may assist in providing the correct answer. 

[TheBoy]

Pads are same across range at rear. The fitting kit varies, as 2.6/3.2 have vented discs (or should have - some bodgers retrofit cheaper replacements, which will eventually kill you), thus have longer pins and bigger spring.

[Keith ABS]

Give me a pm if you are still looking mate
Keith B

[rockindave]

It has vented discs I've got the pads now hoping to fit this weekend,thanks for all help guys

[05omegav6]

If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place

[rockindave]

If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place

Cheers for that I'm doing them tomorrow 

[biggriffin]

Give me a pm if you are still looking mate
Keith B

Incoming 

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

If you haven't done them before...

1. Lift car up.
2. Wheel off.
3. Drift the pins out.
4. Remove outboard pad.
5. Push outboard piston in.
6. Scrape all the muck out of the caliper.
7. Wipe some copper slip along the top and bottom edge of the new pad backing and either side of the shim, if present.
8. Fit new pad.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 on inboard pad
10. Refit pins/spring.
11. Refit wheel.
12. Drop car and tighten wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat for opposite side

Sounds long winded, but takes less time to do than to type

The reason is simple, if you remove both pads, then as you push one piston in, it will simply push the other one out, literally... Both messy and annoying.

By doing one pad at a time gives the second piston summat to push against, thereby keeping it in place

Which in reality means beating the shit out of the rusted in little turds with a large hammer and a nail.

[05omegav6]

  I tend to use a proper drift and a club hammer... nails tend to bend, which is a pretty effective way to spend an afternoon in A and E

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

I tend to use a proper drift and a club hammer... nails tend to bend, which is a pretty effective way to spend an afternoon in A and E

In the OOF guide a nail is used......so there.

[TheBoy]

I use the smallest punch out of Halfords punch set, works well

[Steve B]

Just reading through this. So am i going to have a problem getting hold of these pins... i remember EMD and Nick W talking about them a few months ago

[Diamond Black Geezer]

If you require some decent second hand pins give me a shout, I may have one set kicking around. total price for the kit now is around £50 mark, if you can get it. The search continues for another car caliper with suitable longer pins, not sure if anyoen tracked these down? The usual thing is a manufacturer claims they have both sizes, when they arrive, they're the shorter type.

 

[Steve B]

If you require some decent second hand pins give me a shout, I may have one set kicking around. total price for the kit now is around £50 mark, if you can get it. The search continues for another car caliper with suitable longer pins, not sure if anyoen tracked these down? The usual thing is a manufacturer claims they have both sizes, when they arrive, they're the shorter type.

 

Cheers DBG im gonna get a set of pads from GM then get the wheels off and have a look. 

Any idea of the part number for these pads on trade card 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

According to my records 9193476

expect to pay approx £10 on trade, no need to buy anything else/cheaper brands. 

[Steve B]

Many thanks 

[Steve B]

According to my records 9193476

expect to pay approx £10 on trade, no need to buy anything else/cheaper brands. 

is that part number for vented discs....or are they all the same 

[Nick W]

We've been through this many times: the only way to buy the correct pins for a vented caliper is to get bent over the parts counter at Vauxhall. And their stocks were reported to be very low late last year.


Which means improvising. How you do that will depend on your equipment, tolerance for buggering about and timescale.


I would make four new pins, from about a quid's worth of material, in less time than it takes to make and drink a coffee.


Or you could replace the solid pin with a long split-pin as used in millions of Girling calipers. Chances are you'd have to find a supplier of them, so you won't get the job done on a Sunday afternoon.


If I was going to buy an improvised part, I'd want something easily available: 6mm roll-pins suit the bill, and will be on the shelf at your local industrial fastener supplier/bearing supply/chinese takeaway^**  A quick look on Ebay shows a pack of five 6x80mm rollpins  for £1.95. You only need 4.


None of this helps with the real problem, which is the anti-rattle springs. They're much harder to sort, although some experimentation with steel banding(as used on pallets) would probably produce a working part.


** satirical exaggeration to emphasize my point.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

That part no was for pads, which are the same for any Omega, the springs/pins are a separate issue, and part number 

[Steve B]

Just been into main dealer.. gave him PN 9193476  Told me there is no such thing.  Told me the only rear pads are PN 9195058..pads/pins/shims..(need to order in) £35.55    yet i type this part number in this forum and its well documented that it is correct.

[Steve B]

Ive just had a read of this thread on here.....http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=17503.msg264607#msg264607

so i Ring vauxhall freemans common with markDTM PN 93169001..... £15.01 + vat on TC And there in stock....

[Mr Gav]

I sometimes wonder how threads get side tracked, the OP asked about rear brake pads and then we get two pages of vented callipers and pins, which has no bearing on the pads