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[ettla]

Hello!

As you can see i have a Opel Omega 3.0 MV6 Auto.
The problem is that the car starts only momentarily for one second or so before the engine light starts blinking, but eventually after turning the key until the engine cranks and starts momentarily atleast a couple of times, but sometimes up to 100 times! THEN the car suddenly starts and runs just fine until you turn it off again and you have to do the same procedure all over again... 

The problem first appeared after the alternator died and the engine stalled because of low voltage. I replaced the alternator and charged the battery and tried to start the engine again, and this happened.

If you turn the key fast enough the engine starts for a second but immedietly cuts out when the engine light starts blinking and the immobilizer kicks in!
If you turn the key slowly to "ignition on" position and let the engine light first light up and then start to blink BEFORE you begin cranking, the engine only cranks but does not give any sign of fuel or ignition.
If you turn the key fast a couple of times (can be up to 50-100 tries) the car eventually starts and runs completely normal.

I think this is an immobilzer related issue because i have read that a blinking engine management light means that the immobilizer has kicked in.

I don't know where to begin looking, its a really strange behavior and i cant seem to wrap my head around it. I hope some of you guys on this forum could help me to find what is causing this issue!

I am thinking of uploading a video of me trying to start it but i am not sure if i am patient or lucky enough to get it started on video 

[biggriffin]

I would replace,the crank sensor. Doubtful it's the immobilizer

[johnnydog]

I agree with changing the crank sensor. Had similar issues with one of mine many years ago which was the crank sensor.

[TheBoy]

Hmmm, I think it could be immobilser, not crank sensor

Does it have the reddish dome under mirror?

[Andy B]

I agree with Jamie  Had a new key coded for SWMBO Astra, and that did the same as the OP's car ie start & then die. New chip in the key & it was away.

(I know it's a different setup though on an early infrared alarm Omega)

[ettla]

I agree with changing the crank sensor. Had similar issues with one of mine many years ago which was the crank sensor.

Are you guys sure about the cranksensor? What about the blinking engine light, i thought that was immobilizer specific notification. Can anyone confirm this blinking light being immobilizer specific or not? Thanks for the fast responses! Appreciate it, i acctually ordered a crank sensor from ebay today, was only 10 dollars. I dont know what i would do without you guys, My next move was to check all grounds or something 

[Andy B]

...
 i acctually ordered a crank sensor from ebay today, was only 10 dollars. I dont know what i would do without you guys, My next move was to check all grounds or  .....

Generic crank shaft sensors often quickly fail 

[ettla]

Hmmm, I think it could be immobilser, not crank sensor

Does it have the reddish dome under mirror?

I agree with Jamie  Had a new key coded for SWMBO Astra, and that did the same as the OP's car ie start & then die. New chip in the key & it was away.

(I know it's a different setup though on an early infrared alarm Omega)

Thanks for replying! I only have one key to the car, it looks like this
The key has one of those small immobilizer chips in it, it is there, not missing or anything. But it seems to work only when it wants too?

As for the reddish dome, i dont think i have it, i dont have the car at my house right now so i cant check immedietly.
But i do not have a remote locking key available, erlier owners maybe had it, i didn't get one when i bought the car.
What did you mean with the reddish dome, what does it make of a diffrence?

As you said Andy, i have the same issue as you had with your car, when it starts only for a sec or so and then cuts out. But did you ever get it going by just turning and turning until it started and ran just fine until you shut it off again?

This makes me think that my battery may be bad or that there is some ground loose somewhere... What is your opinion on that?

...
 i acctually ordered a crank sensor from ebay today, was only 10 dollars. I dont know what i would do without you guys, My next move was to check all grounds or  .....

Generic crank shaft sensors often quickly fail 

Oh well, i looked into it and it seems that i have ordered the wrong one too? there are 2 different types on ebay.
I ordered the first one of these 2:
10 dollars
30 dollars approx

i bought the cheapest one, thought i could not lose anything for 10 bucks and i didnt realize that it was different models... the screwhole was on the other side on the first one 
But i will wait to see if it fits anyway. Thanks for the tip, maybe i should buy a bosch of the right type instead? 

[Andy B]

...
As you said Andy, i have the same issue as you had with your car, when it starts only for a sec or so and then cuts out. But did you ever get it going by just turning and turning until it started and ran just fine until you shut it off again?

I only saw the fault when the dealer was programming the new key, the chip was duff, so he fitted another & all was sorted.

This makes me think that my battery may be bad or that there is some ground loose somewhere... What is your opinion on that?
 ...

Sorry, don't know 

[Andy B]

.....
What did you mean with the reddish dome, what does it make of a diffrence? ....

very early cars had a separate remote fob instead of built into the key which used infra red (not radio frequency) which had a receiver on the trim around the sunroof open/close dial

[TheBoy]

I was just trying to clarify if yours has the IR or RF system, as 95 should be IR, but 96 models were sold from midway through 95. 96 models are RF.

The fob bit, are both buttons the same size?  To be absolutely certain, can you post the last letter of you VIN (not the last number)

[ettla]

Ok Andy, but thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, atleast im not alone and that is one step ahead m8!
As for the fob, i dont acctually have the keyfob for remote lock/unlock of the car, i only have the manual key with the immo chip in it. But i took a picture inside my car to show you that i have what i think is the ir reciever "dome" you guys are talking about!



An answer to you TheBoy is also that i dont acctually have the "Fob" bit of the key, i only have the key part, but i think i have the ir system, what difference does it make for troubleshooting, i know it may be too complicated for me to understand, but i am open for anything!

HERE IS A VIDEO OF MY PROBLEM:
https://youtu.be/v6yIqo2znmY

[johnnydog]

Maybe totally unrelated to your problem, but years ago, I had a problem with a 3.2 where it would crank, and the engine would fire and run for a second - no longer, and then cut out. The spanner light would be blinking and the engine management light was on. Turned out it was the engine ecu which had been 'spiked' and fried itself. Not wanting to be alarmist, but with your alternator failing, could it be worth checking that the regulator hasn't caused any issues by any possible surges of power?
Not an electrical expert - I'm sure this possibity will soon be discussed!

[dbug]

Had similar on my old Elite, car would fire up and immediately stall, with flashing spanner light.

Try starting it with the MAF disconnected - mine fired and ran ok.  Replaced MAF, no further issues 

[ettla]

Maybe totally unrelated to your problem, but years ago, I had a problem with a 3.2 where it would crank, and the engine would fire and run for a second - no longer, and then cut out. The spanner light would be blinking and the engine management light was on. Turned out it was the engine ecu which had been 'spiked' and fried itself. Not wanting to be alarmist, but with your alternator failing, could it be worth checking that the regulator hasn't caused any issues by any possible surges of power?
Not an electrical expert - I'm sure this possibity will soon be discussed!

Thanks for the reply! Acctually this could be it... It was specificcally the regulator that failed and it is after that the problems started, could totally be the case if the regulator failed letting the alternator send unregulated voltage through the whole system... But lets hope that something else fried, like a sensor or something in that neighbourhood. Would totally be the worst case scenario with the actual ECU being damaged. BUT Sometimes it starts! This is very strange.

[ettla]

Had similar on my old Elite, car would fire up and immediately stall, with flashing spanner light.

Try starting it with the MAF disconnected - mine fired and ran ok.  Replaced MAF, no further issues 

This tip made me think of something really good! I will definately try this, but as everyone suggests it may be different sensors, i will try to disconnect every sensor i can find at a time to really do everything i can for the least amount of money!

For example if it starts without the maf: the maf is bad etc.

Also i thought of something that gave me some kind of relief when it comes to the ECU being fried because of the regulator failing and spiking the ecu,. Acctually it was only one of the coals that got stuck in the regulator so that the generator totally lost connection with the electrical system, i dont think that that could have caused spiking as the regulater still is in working condition.. Only the coals wore out

[ettla]

I noticed you guys were talking about the spanner light blinking on your cars, in my case it's not the spanner light blinking its the Check Engine Light that is blinking as you can tell by my video.

I would really appreciate if someone confirmed if a blinking check engine light means that the immobilizer has kicked in or not? Because i believe we are talking about different lights blinking here, where spanner and engine lights are beeing confused with eachother. I really need to know if it could have anything to do with the MAF sensor or the Crank Sensor for example... or if it is a Immobilizer SPECIFIC error. That would rule out alot of things 

[zirk]

I noticed you guys were talking about the spanner light blinking on your cars, in my case it's not the spanner light blinking its the Check Engine Light that is blinking as you can tell by my video.

I would really appreciate if someone confirmed if a blinking check engine light means that the immobilizer has kicked in or not? Because i believe we are talking about different lights blinking here, where spanner and engine lights are beeing confused with eachother. I really need to know if it could have anything to do with the MAF sensor or the Crank Sensor for example... or if it is a Immobilizer SPECIFIC error. That would rule out alot of things 

If yours is a 1995 then it probably wont have a spanner light (from memory, its been a while since I had anything that old), so yours will be EML light only (Symbol of an Engine), so the Immobilizer issue will share this with EML Faults, or with what you call Check Engine.

Also looking at your Video, your trying to crank the car with the EML flashing, this kind of tells me its an Imob Issue, from memory once you get an a Failed Start sequence in this scenario, you would normally have to switch off Ing, and remove key away from the barrel (this is where the Transponder Ring Module is), then re insert Key and start a fresh attempt, as its unlikely to start anyway before a reset. In fact on the latter Omega's you may have to remove key, open door, lock door, unlock and re open door, before you can attempt another re start.

Take it you dont have another key with a another Transponder?, might be worth taking the Steering housing off and have a poke around where the Transponder Module is, checking and reconnecting the main plug etc.

Having said all that, a failed Crank Sensor can also produce an failed start, sometimes intermittent, Ive had situations where a suspect Crank Sensors has gone, I jeft it along overnight, and changed main Battery, and found it starts on the button next morning, only to find the CS packs up all together within a few days.

Buy the way, a $10/20 Crank Sensor off eBay is going to last all but Days, Weeks, Months, before giving up the ghost again.

A failed Main ECU, does cause a very simular issue to what your having ie, Flashing EML or Spanner (Cant remember which), although Ive only ever seen this, in the latter 2.6/3.2 DBW cars which have the latter ECU type, so thats not to say the earlier ECU's pack up, but they do seem a lot more robust that the latter ones, if it was me I would put a Failed ECU on the back burner for the time being and concentrate on Immobilizer or possibly CS. 

[TheBoy]

Pic shows its IR type. Immobiliser relay behind glovebox from memory.

It does NOT use the transponder system used on later Omegas

[ettla]

I noticed you guys were talking about the spanner light blinking on your cars, in my case it's not the spanner light blinking its the Check Engine Light that is blinking as you can tell by my video.

I would really appreciate if someone confirmed if a blinking check engine light means that the immobilizer has kicked in or not? Because i believe we are talking about different lights blinking here, where spanner and engine lights are beeing confused with eachother. I really need to know if it could have anything to do with the MAF sensor or the Crank Sensor for example... or if it is a Immobilizer SPECIFIC error. That would rule out alot of things 

If yours is a 1995 then it probably wont have a spanner light (from memory, its been a while since I had anything that old), so yours will be EML light only (Symbol of an Engine), so the Immobilizer issue will share this with EML Faults, or with what you call Check Engine.

Also looking at your Video, your trying to crank the car with the EML flashing, this kind of tells me its an Imob Issue, from memory once you get an a Failed Start sequence in this scenario, you would normally have to switch off Ing, and remove key away from the barrel (this is where the Transponder Ring Module is), then re insert Key and start a fresh attempt, as its unlikely to start anyway before a reset. In fact on the latter Omega's you may have to remove key, open door, lock door, unlock and re open door, before you can attempt another re start.

Take it you dont have another key with a another Transponder?, might be worth taking the Steering housing off and have a poke around where the Transponder Module is, checking and reconnecting the main plug etc.

Having said all that, a failed Crank Sensor can also produce an failed start, sometimes intermittent, Ive had situations where a suspect Crank Sensors has gone, I jeft it along overnight, and changed main Battery, and found it starts on the button next morning, only to find the CS packs up all together within a few days.

Buy the way, a $10/20 Crank Sensor off eBay is going to last all but Days, Weeks, Months, before giving up the ghost again.

A failed Main ECU, does cause a very simular issue to what your having ie, Flashing EML or Spanner (Cant remember which), although Ive only ever seen this, in the latter 2.6/3.2 DBW cars which have the latter ECU type, so thats not to say the earlier ECU's pack up, but they do seem a lot more robust that the latter ones, if it was me I would put a Failed ECU on the back burner for the time being and concentrate on Immobilizer or possibly CS.

Thank you very much for the extensive answer zirk!

You really had the exact answer i was looking for, and after reading your reply all of this really leads me to believe that this is the crank sensor that needs replacing. I want to thank you really much for explaining that the light on my model is of the combined type, as everybody mentioned the spanner light and all i had blinking in my car was the Engine Management Light 

[ettla]

Pic shows its IR type. Immobiliser relay behind glovebox from memory.

It does NOT use the transponder system used on later Omegas

Thanks for the feedback TheBoy, i will look for that relay and test it! Really happy for all the extensive help from everybody!

[omega2018]

The problem is that the car starts only momentarily for one second or so before the engine light starts blinking, but eventually after turning the key until the engine cranks and starts momentarily atleast a couple of times, but sometimes up to 100 times! THEN the car suddenly starts and runs just fine until you turn it off again and you have to do the same procedure all over again... 

i can't quite grasp what you mean by the first sentence, i assume your engine starts and immediately stops and does this up to 100 times before it will keep running. i can tell you the symptoms of my failing crank sensor - just occasionally, maybe 1 time in 10, the engine wouldn't fire on the first turn.  always fired up if i just kept the key on, turning it over,  so i didn't think much more about it.  until the day  when it wouldn't start at all while warm (hour or so after last run).  waited another hour for the breakdown truck then it fired up first time.  replaced crank sensor with a genuine delphi one and not had any of these symptoms since (8,000 miles so far). 

so in your case the symptoms sound different.  may well be immobiliser but doesn't that work by refusing to switch on the fuel pump and wouldn't that give more than a second of running? as i recall pulling the fuel pump fuse gives 3 or 4 seconds running.

[ettla]

The problem is that the car starts only momentarily for one second or so before the engine light starts blinking, but eventually after turning the key until the engine cranks and starts momentarily atleast a couple of times, but sometimes up to 100 times! THEN the car suddenly starts and runs just fine until you turn it off again and you have to do the same procedure all over again... 

i can't quite grasp what you mean by the first sentence, i assume your engine starts and immediately stops and does this up to 100 times before it will keep running. i can tell you the symptoms of my failing crank sensor - just occasionally, maybe 1 time in 10, the engine wouldn't fire on the first turn.  always fired up if i just kept the key on, turning it over,  so i didn't think much more about it.  until the day  when it wouldn't start at all while warm (hour or so after last run).  waited another hour for the breakdown truck then it fired up first time.  replaced crank sensor with a genuine delphi one and not had any of these symptoms since (8,000 miles so far). 

so in your case the symptoms sound different.  may well be immobiliser but doesn't that work by refusing to switch on the fuel pump and wouldn't that give more than a second of running? as i recall pulling the fuel pump fuse gives 3 or 4 seconds running.

The difference for me is that these symptoms exist both when the car is hot and when its cold, it does not matter.

The immobilizer would pull both ignition and fuel.