Topic: LOCKING WHEEL NUTS (Read 4070 times)

STMO123 · « **on:** 16 July 2006, 16:08:10 »

Hi there. I was sitting around this afternoon thinking about my hols and any little jobs I needed to do to my omega before we go. I went through all the various scenarios that might happen. Might get a puncture so I'll make sure my Vx locking wheelnuts are clean and copper greased etc etc so I wont get stuck if I need to change a wheel.
You've already guessed where I'm going with this. First three came off easy(I'd given them a good squirt of WD40 and a quick smack with a metal drift) The fourth wouldn't budge and eventually the socket jumped off. Horror.....the holes in the nut have 'stretched and are now kind of oval instead of round. THe socket just jumps off all the time now.
So...Ive araldited it onto the offending nut. Gonna give it an hour and see. Pray for me

rob114 · « **Reply #1 on:** 16 July 2006, 16:24:33 »

I had exactly the same prob m8 last week before painting my calipers! Struggled for an hour with the offending nut (why is it always just one that does it???). Neighbour popped over cause it was his caliper paint & said try tightening it a bit then try. Nut came straight off after that!

The bloody locking wheel nut 'key' also fell out of the socket & had to be punched back in praying it wouldn't crack/break etc!!

Good luck with yours

x25xe · « **Reply #2 on:** 16 July 2006, 16:42:55 »

Looking at this, is it better to get the locking botls off and replace them with standard wheel botls???

My CDX has the locking botls, behind locking wheel bolt covers!

I think that I will remove mine!!!

TheBoy · « **Reply #3 on:** 16 July 2006, 16:45:48 »

If the locking nuts jam, hammer a good quality socket over it....

STMO123 · « **Reply #4 on:** 16 July 2006, 16:45:51 »

I dont know about replacing them with standard wheel bolts. Apparently there are kits you can buy which are much better than Vx, which is what I'll be doing once I get this bugger off.

STMO123 · « **Reply #5 on:** 16 July 2006, 16:48:42 »

Quote

If the locking nuts jam, hammer a good quality socket over it....

Tried that. The socket was just spinnig arond on the nut. It really is on tight. Thanks anyway m8

STMO123 · « **Reply #6 on:** 16 July 2006, 16:58:18 »

No luck,socket has come off again...guess its going to have to be a sealy wheel nut removal tool, or maybe kwik-fit will have one

sounds2k · « **Reply #7 on:** 16 July 2006, 18:05:58 »

not sure if they are aftermarket parts, but the locking nuts on my facelift miggy are of a different design to to pre-facelift which has three pins. The later model's key has an irregular shaped ridge which fits into a corresponding groove on they nut. Will try and take some pics to show what I mean, maybe these are available from Vx?

RolandL · « **Reply #8 on:** 16 July 2006, 18:41:52 »

I had some new tyres put on mine last week, they had to be very careful when taking them off as some of the holes in the locking nuts had stretched. They advised changing them as they prob wouldn't last much longer. Went to Halfords got a new set, totally different design. In the instructions it said do not use an air gun to put them on, tighten by hand. Think this is the problem, when you take them to have new rubber put on they over tighten them, result, next visit they use too much force to get them off.

TheBoy · « **Reply #9 on:** 16 July 2006, 20:37:34 »

Quote

not sure if they are aftermarket parts, but the locking nuts on my facelift miggy are of a different design to to pre-facelift which has three pins. The later model's key has an irregular shaped ridge which fits into a corresponding groove on they nut. Will try and take some pics to show what I mean, maybe these are available from Vx?

Thats the kind my pre facelift MV6 had. Still pants, and, tbh, incredibly to remove without the key.

Salty · « **Reply #10 on:** 16 July 2006, 20:39:10 »

Quote

not sure if they are aftermarket parts, but the locking nuts on my facelift miggy are of a different design to to pre-facelift which has three pins. The later model's key has an irregular shaped ridge which fits into a corresponding groove on they nut. Will try and take some pics to show what I mean, maybe these are available from Vx?

The type you describe are like the McGard ones, supposedly one of the most secure.

As for garages/tyre fitters overtightening with the old air gun, I got so p****d off with this I ask them to torque them up and take my torque wrench etc with me just in case. I get worried that if SWMBO is out in the car and has a puncture there is no way she would be able to change the wheel!

sounds2k · « **Reply #11 on:** 16 July 2006, 22:13:28 »

when I get wheels changed, afterwards I always take the bolts out, put coppaslip on their shoulders and refit - torque the normal ones to the correct setting and the security ones enough to keep them in place.

STMO123 · « **Reply #12 on:** 16 July 2006, 22:33:59 »

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=109639&MAN=Sealey-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Removal-Set-2pc-21-And-25mm#
i THINK i'LL BUY THESE AND TAKE THEM TO THE GARAGE WITH ME. MONEY WELL SPENT I THINK!

Edit: am I right in thinking that RAC/AA patrolmen use compressed air tools nowadays? If so might be a good idea to keep a set in the car for when Maureen drives it.

markrl · « **Reply #13 on:** 17 July 2006, 10:56:31 »

Vauxhall have changed the type of locking wheel nut they use since the days of the pre facelift. The older type looked less likely to cause problems with air tools but were apparently less secure. They also had the small plastic caps (which garages always managed to loose)

The latest type are apparently more secure but look (to me at least) far less likely to withstand the airtool. The socket in particularly does not inspire confidance.

nixoro · « **Reply #14 on:** 17 July 2006, 11:02:51 »

I had this problem on a cavalier I had where STS had used the gun to tighten the wheels, in the end I landed up drilling part of the bolt then using a cold chisel and malet. worked a treat hopefully yours is not as serious.

HTH

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 July 2006, 11:05:58 »

If its stuck then use a small chisel and hammer to chisel it round and off.

STMO123 · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 July 2006, 13:07:11 »

This morning I tried mylocal Kwik-fit, Gordons tyres and uncle tom cobley and all...Almost every one of them pointed me in the direction of Vx(as if)
I was passing a little garage in Barnsley and saw a young lad outside having his bacon buttie. I went in and laid it on a bit thick(hols coming up..could be in deep s**t etc etc) He couldn't wait to help me and a few knocks, bangs and farts later it was off. A tenner made him well happy. MORAL: you still cant beat a friendly local independent garage.

nixoro · « **Reply #17 on:** 17 July 2006, 13:10:17 »

Good effort

Saved you getting your hands dirty

STMO123 · « **Reply #18 on:** 17 July 2006, 13:19:49 »

Cheers, Roy. I dont mind getting my hands dirty, you understand. Its just that I'm old and decrepit now and its so much nicer to watch someone doing the job.....

Tony H · « **Reply #19 on:** 17 July 2006, 20:51:27 »

Quote

Quote
If the locking nuts jam, hammer a good quality socket over it....
Tried that. The socket was just spinnig arond on the nut. It really is on tight. Thanks anyway m8

If your locking wheelnuts are like the ones on my facelift Elite they have a spinning outer coller to prevent people hammering a socket on them to remove them.

sounds2k · « **Reply #20 on:** 18 July 2006, 21:53:19 »

well I haven't been able to take a pic of my bolts yet, but they look identical to these:

- they may well have the spinning collar mentioned by Tony H too by the looks of it ...

TheBoy · « **Reply #21 on:** 18 July 2006, 22:00:23 »

They look like the ones I took off the MV6, due to fact they were a bastard to undo if they had seized slightly...

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Author Topic: LOCKING WHEEL NUTS (Read 4070 times)

STMO123

rob114

STMO123

STMO123

STMO123

STMO123

STMO123

STMO123