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[Matchless]

Socket on crankshaft centre bolt, rotate clockwise (only) until notch on cambelt sprocket lines up with a rib on casting at 6 oclock, timing marks on cam sprockets should now line-up with marks on backplate. (might have to rotate a further 360 deg).

Cams are numbered 1 to 4, left to right, sprockets have two marks each, use the mark which corresponds to the cam number.

This can be used for fault checking but is not accurate enough for fitting a belt, you need the locking and timing kit for this.

If you attempt to remove the belt then you must set the crank to 60 deg BTDC first or you will damage valves. ( 60 deg BTDC = notch at 4 o clock)

[jonny2112]

Socket on crankshaft centre bolt, rotate clockwise (only) until notch on cambelt sprocket lines up with a rib on casting at 6 oclock, timing marks on cam sprockets should now line-up with marks on backplate. (might have to rotate a further 360 deg).

Cams are numbered 1 to 4, left to right, sprockets have two marks each, use the mark which corresponds to the cam number.

This can be used for fault checking but is not accurate enough for fitting a belt, you need the locking and timing kit for this.

If you attempt to remove the belt then you must set the crank to 60 deg BTDC first or you will damage valves. ( 60 deg BTDC = notch at 4 o clock)

Thanks for that. Still at work though so no progress today
Has crossed my mind too about checking the manifold gasket, in relation to the tapping, though I am fairly sure it is the lifters. Whilst the car is in bits may be a good idea to check. How difficult would it be to visually inspect it, and what am I looking for?
Cheers  

[ians]

As well as all the goo, the tensioner looks completely untensioned (at its end stop) to me -or had you released it already)

[jonny2112]

I didn't initially notice the tensioner being off, but I hadn't touched it. I take it that it will be safe enough to turn the crank manually (when i get the E20 torx bit) with some slack in the belt?

[The Barge Captain]

Don't forget that you will also need a 30 (?)mm offset crank spanner in order to tighten the tensioner pulleys.

If i have told you the wrong size i'm sure someone will be along soon to correct me.

[jonny2112]

Don't forget that you will also need a 30 (?)mm offset crank spanner in order to tighten the tensioner pulleys.

If i have told you the wrong size i'm sure someone will be along soon to correct me.

No I think you're right! That's next on the shopping list, but seems a bit difficult to find.

I got the torx bit and have rotated the crank as required. It was both difficult and easy - harder to rotate at times but it was probably due to having to take up the slack.
All the timing notches seem to be in sync, and although I haven't aligned them exactly, both 1 and 2 seem to be equidistant from their respective notch, and likewise with 3 and 4. I'm really pleased about this because I am thinking that there may be no internal damage as the cam timing looks ok. Am I barking up the wrong tree??

[Kevin Wood]

If the marks are still in alignment I think it's likely that your engine has had a very lucky escape!

New belt and set of idlers and it should be sorted.

Edited to say it will be stiff turning the crank over at various positions because you're working against the compression stroke of one of the cylinders.


Kevin

[jonny2112]

If the marks are still in alignment I think it's likely that your engine has had a very lucky escape!

New belt and set of idlers and it should be sorted.

Edited to say it will be stiff turning the crank over at various positions because you're working against the compression stroke of one of the cylinders.


Kevin

Yes I think I've ben really lucky! New stuff all ordered today though not sure of the length/part number for the aux belt.

[Dave-C]

Just noticed this thread, haven't been able to get on here just lately....  " You Lucky Sod!" That's all I can say...   Luck of the Irish..



DC

[jonny2112]