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[mkaminski100]

I have the same problem. Any solution yet? I'm trying to get in touch with Sassanach but he's very busy.
My post http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1195475008

[AndersH]

Since putting the gearbox back in with the new fluid things are much better - there was an almighty clunk which shook the car on the way back from Sasanach's place and the next day it slipped into neutral a couple of times but since then, for the last 2.5 weeks I haven't had a single problem with it, infact it seems better than it's ever been! whereas before it would happen every time I used the car. Don't really know what to conclude from that I'm afraid, just that I'm glad it's working better now!

[mkaminski100]

So, you still have your old gerbox in and nothing was changed except oil and everything is ok now? + whole afternoow of work... I was told that it might cost £1000 to refurbish my gearbox so even if there is just a few things to be done, I will pay minimum of £500. I will try to check oil level today (I changed the oil when the engine was cold). Second thing is that oil wasnt change since new, I add 5.5l and ca 3-3.5l was left in the gearbox (which is in the system, not in the oil lump). Is there any way to get out that 3.5l of oil from the gearbox apart from "active oil change"?

[mkaminski100]

I checked oil level in my gearbox. It was even to much oil, so some of it came out to container.
Oil was changed 2 weeks ago!! It looks like I need to change it ONCE AGAIN.
Look what I found and compare with new Dexron III. Old one is more...abrasive, new is more... oily and slippery (don't know it that's a good word)

[TheBoy]

Yes, looks like its burning it, probably due to the slip in the box.

As the oil breaks down, it will increase in volume.

[mkaminski100]

How does it work? When the gearbox starts slipping, sensors will immediately fill find out that the vehicle speed, engine speed and selected gear don't match,. The gearbox then will switch to "limp" mode and go to "N" (revs will go up, and car will not accelerate). After 30 seconds I will get a error message. Am I right?
If yes, then it happened for 3 times since I've changed oil and only for few seconds. Is it possible that whole oil might be burnt from that? If the gearbox is broken, then the old oil (which wasn't changed from new) should be more like grease. It was darker than this one but wasn't that bad. Isn't it so dark because, there was still ca 3l of old oil left in the gearbox and new oil starts to clean the gearbox now?

[TheBoy]

How does it work? When the gearbox starts slipping, sensors will immediately fill find out that the vehicle speed, engine speed and selected gear don't match,. The gearbox then will switch to "limp" mode and go to "N" (revs will go up, and car will not accelerate). After 30 seconds I will get a error message. Am I right?
If yes, then it happened for 3 times since I've changed oil and only for few seconds. Is it possible that whole oil might be burnt from that? If the gearbox is broken, then the old oil (which wasn't changed from new) should be more like grease. It was darker than this one but wasn't that bad. Isn't it so dark because, there was still ca 3l of old oil left in the gearbox and new oil starts to clean the gearbox now?
 

No, its not that instant - it can't be due to wat TC works.  Hence there can be a lot of slip[ before it limps.

[mkaminski100]

I don't have TC. (Traction Control)

[JamesV6CDX]

I don't have TC. (Traction Control)

TC = Torque Converter

[mkaminski100]

So when do you know that it's slipping? When you feel the result ("limp" mode, "N") or the reason (gear slipping)?
How can I check the reason? Car is accelerating, revs are going up with speed. If it would slip all the time together with "TC" then revs would easily go up and the vehicle wouldn't accelerate.
What gearboxes were installed in Omegas and which I should be looking for?

[Marks DTM Calib]

The thrust washer failure results in a low oil pressure.

As a result the box fails to shift occasionaly, the output shaft sensor detects this and throws a fault code (normaly related to the fact that the output speed does not match that expected based on engine RPM, TC slip and gear) and the box drops into limp mode with a clunk.

The colour of your oil is probabaly due to the remaining 3 litres mixing with the new stuff......its pretty much impossible to change the oil totaly without rmoving the box and even then, removing it from the TC wont be easy.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Ow yes, the gearbox es installed are:

AR35 - 3.0
Ar25 - all others

These are otherwise known as the 4L30E Gm box (as used on 5 series BMW's, Isuzus , yank tanks etc)

[mkaminski100]

Sometimes, after accelerating, when I release the pedal, revs are going down (to ca 1000) like in "N" mode, and when I press it aging, revs are going up and car is accelerating. Sometimes, when I release the pedal, revs are going down slowly with the speed (like still on gear) and vehicle is slowing. And now I remember when it happens - when I accelerate up to ca 30mile/h and release the throttle, then revs are going down and when I press it again it stays in "N" mode, especially when it's on cruise control. Same thing happens with that clunk, same situation, just I don’t press the throttle again and when the car is moving I can feel the clunk. I thought about it and it really looks like the gearbox is loosing pressure and goes crazy.
I read this post: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1183142571 It looks easy, but I'm sure it's not.
So when looking for a gearbox, I can take any, apart from 3.0 one.

Does the green field has to be machined (flattened)?

[Marks DTM Calib]

I personaly would go for a 3.0 one as its stronger.....and before fitting replace the thrust washer.

[TheBoy]

The thrust washer failure results in a low oil pressure.

As a result the box fails to shift occasionaly, the output shaft sensor detects this and throws a fault code (normaly related to the fact that the output speed does not match that expected based on engine RPM, TC slip and gear) and the box drops into limp mode with a clunk.

The colour of your oil is probabaly due to the remaining 3 litres mixing with the new stuff......its pretty much impossible to change the oil totaly without rmoving the box and even then, removing it from the TC wont be easy.

Not sure I agree on the oil colour being just due mixing with old oil.  I had a similar issue with my box, and it turned my nice red atf (done on your drive) to a horrible dark oil within weeks.  I know it was still fairly red about a week after we changed my ATF, as I rechecked level.

Also, when it starts to burn it, the volume increases quite a bit.



Now, I'm disagreeing with Marks_DTM_Calib.  I'm bracing myself to be 'educated'