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[tunnie]

Sounds like a tractor 

But as soon as your above idle, driving around town 1.5krpm+ say, smooooth as silk, sounds like V6 should 

Hmm. Certainly sounds like symptoms of low oil pressure at idle to me. Would be good to get it measured, or just pop the relief valve out and check for debris and if the piston is scored.

Doing oil change today, I could see the pressure switch, it had a loom plug on it next to crank pully.

So I remove the loom connector and get a spanner/deep socket on it? Just remove it normally?

Stupid question - Will oil pour out?   

Yes, a little, but that's the pressure switch (for measuring the oil pressure) not the relief valve (a possible reason why it might be low). The relief valve is under a plug on the top of the oil pump, IIRC. Plenum, bagpipes, aux belt and cam belt cover need to come off to get to it. Might be worth hooking up that gauge as a first step, just to confirm our suspicions.

Need to get that gauge sorted first, its on its way, but I need to sort the adaptors.

Trouble is I don't have much spare time now, doubt I can strip it down until mid December 

[aaronjb]

If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk!

Tunnie hasn't got any PTFE tape.. what makes you think he's got a blowtorch?

[TheBoy]

You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.

I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.

If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk!

That was my intention, Debs, but I overdid  it, thus had to put a new one on

[tunnie]

Any debris/shite come out with the flush?

Few little bits, nothing major.

[Shackeng]

You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.

I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.

If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk!

No No No, allow to cool naturally!

[TheBoy]

You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.

I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.

If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk!

No No No, allow to cool naturally!

Makes no odds if you melt the little tinker 

[Debs.]

You'll probably want some PTFE tape, by the way, to seal things back up again.

I just used a new copper washer last time I had mine off.

If pushed for a replacement: anneal the old one to 'red' with blow-torch and dunk!

No No No, allow to cool naturally!

"Unlike ferrous metals—which must be cooled slowly to anneal, copper, silver and brass can be cooled slowly in air or quickly by quenching in water. In this fashion the metal is softened and prepared for further work such as shaping, stamping, or forming"

[Shackeng]

True, but, if one remembers to anneal all metals by cooling naturally, one will not be confused.

[Andy H]

Take care not to damage the threaded boss the pressure switch screws into.

The boss is part of the aluminium oil pump casting and quite fragile.

If you ever need to replace the oil pump you will first need to undo the bolt in the nose of the crankshaft. IIRC it is torqued up to 250 ft-lb.

I seem to recall a thread on OOF where someone spent months trying to fix a leak from the oil pressure switch area, I don't know that they ever fixed it

[Andy B]

True, but, if one remembers to anneal all metals by cooling naturally, one will not be confused.

But Debs is correct re annealing of a copper washer.  I learnt that at school many many moons ago! 

[Omegatoy]

  tecsol is extremely strong flush!!! i personally would have left it in for 15mins however if it made no difference after 10 mins then i would guess its something else at fault!! this stuff cleans oil squirters in a diesel easily!!
re lifters, they are or were in the straight six strippable!! then you could clean out the crud that sits in them, usually carboned oil, remove lifter squeeze closed which will squirt oil out so be careful!!
then turn upside down,(check there isnt a circlip holding it together) and bang hard on a block of hardwood, the centre piston as thats basically what it is, will then pop out, clean internals and with plenty of new oil reasemble, however if when removed the bore is seen to be scored nothing will help it!!
when clean leve in a bucket of oil for a few hours or overnight if possible, this will allow lifters to refill themselves, other than that replacement is the only option, also when they are out check the oilways that feed them for small blockages! if it were an oil preasure problem when hot then surely all would be noisy?

[Marks DTM Calib]

If it was the lifters they would be noisey when first starting as some would have drained down due to being under cam load.

Its got oil pressure written all over it to me.......question is......why.......how much metal was in the sump and was it white?

[tunnie]

If it was the lifters they would be noisey when first starting as some would have drained down due to being under cam load.

Its got oil pressure written all over it to me.......question is......why.......how much metal was in the sump and was it white?

Spotted a couple of shards of metal in the sump when removed, i really mean just a few shards. Nothing to speak of. Again with sum pickup very slight concentration of metal shards right in the corner between the metal surround and mesh.

[tunnie]

tecsol is extremely strong flush!!!

Its the stuff you gave me years ago when I had the senator 

Had 14 mins in there in total.

Drove back tonight, cold start, sounded fine. Stopped for petrol about 1 mile down road, slight hint of lifters.

80mph blast of 65 miles and its same as before, perhaps slightly better now. 

Oil light never flickers, I know the bulb works as it came on as usual during the oil change

[feeutfo]

Half a dozen 1.5 to 2mm pieces if flat flakes of what looked like slightly rusty, possibly blue brown metal. No filings or silver looking stuff to worry about. Looked like stuff would flake off a casting tbh.

Motor has 137k on it.