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[henryd]

Difficult to say what the consequences would be. You might get away with it. I'm sure it'll run fine, but you might find that it burns a little oil and, crucially, it won't ever "bed in" and improve.

He might well be right that the machine with the balls would have done more harm than good. I have used these in the past:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-56246-51-177-Cylinder-Hone/dp/B0001K9WDA?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-uk-21&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0001K9WDA

Just run it up and down a couple of times on the end of an electric drill. Might be worth doing while you're at a stage where it won't be too much lost work.

Also, I'd put some assembly lubricant on the big end bearings when it goes together the final time just to protect them until oil pressure comes up.

That link is the same kit that I have,very good they are too

[henryd]

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/automotive/cylinder-head--honing-and-camshaft-tools/heavy-duty-cylinder-hone-3-leg/p/ZT1120283X?utm_campaign=pla-Automotive+-+&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping-pla&utm_keyword=ZT1120283X&istCompanyId=6aa6787b-063e-4414-802d-129f235df603&istItemId=wtqixxqlrx&istBid=tztx&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq6_UBRCEARIsAHyrgUyUEa3s0ZElvMlJPYIZpyhkW3sbrrai683aPMLVLGWVAKYCXwWqC7saAt1fEALw_wcB

I only added that link as I was interested to see that they recommend brake fluid as a cutting lubricant

[Marks DTM Calib]

You do need to knock the glaze off the bores so the rings bed in, ring gap wont be an issue (modern engine and tolerances plus they came matched to the pistons so no 'odd' supplier type issues to worry about) and there will be no bore wear (as confirmed by the cross hatch from the honing still being visible).

[JamesV6CDX]

A week later and still no further forward on this, haven't even lifted the bonnet. I've had a serious case of CBA, combined with the snow, and the fact I've had the funeral this week.

Tomorrow, I'm going to make a start on rebuilding the head, I think. Maybe. Unless we get snowed in, and I decide to walk the dog and have a pub lunch and some Guinness instead 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Second option sounds a difficult one to resist. 

[terry paget]

Been slow progress on this, due to holiday, bereavement, bad back, and numerous other unrelated things going wrong, but I've managed to move it forward a bit, now.

As you've seen from previous posts on this thread I removed all the pistons, and number three was broken. A thorough inspection shows the bores to be as good as new. I cleaned them up with some clutch cleaner, and all the cross-hatch hone marks literally look like they've come from the factory.

I decided to replace all three pistons, with new piston rings. The old ones had engrained dirt in the ring gaps etc, and to be honest, price wise, it wasn't that much more to buy a piston included with the rings, than just the rings themselves (£30 a pop with rings).

So here are the three new pistons, out of the box:



And here is one with the rings fitted (note, gaps not spaced yet)



You'll have noticed earlier on that I mentioned issues removing the wrist pins, but I got there in the end with the aid of some heat and patience -

Here are the pistons and con-rods, with the little-ends fitted



You can see here, there appears to be a little (albeit not excessive) wear, to the big end shells:



So I decided to replace them all for brand new. Here is one of them:



I realised at this point I didn't have a ring compressor, so off to Halfords I trot. They had a Laser piston ring compressor which certainly looked ok, so I went for that. In hindsight, that was a mistake, but it got this job done.

At this point, I installed the number one piston. I followed the instructions in the tech data to the T, and upon advice of numerous video's I had watched, coated everything generously in oil.

Following the confident blow with the handle of my hammer, with everything lined up, it popped smoothly down into the bore with a nice satisfying little noise, leaving me with this:



Here is where the fun started.

Upon attempting the same with number two, I just felt that the compressor wasn't gripping the rings evenly. I couldn't see this, it was just a strange hunch that it was out of round.

I removed the compressor, double checked everything, and it all seemed ok, so went to fit number 2 in the same way as I did one.

This time, the piston didn't go straight into the bore. For some reason the middle compression ring didn't go in, and popped out, meaning the piston didn't go fully in.

I again removed everything, thankfully the rings were unharmed, so attempt number two, this time it went in, as did number three.

Here is the end result with the pistons fitted:



As you can see, the engine is at a safe position just prior to TDC, ready for head fitment.

With the new pistons fitted, and a light smear of oil in the bores, and assembly lube used on the new bearings, the engine turns over very smoothly indeed. There is a bit more resistance than there was before, but I put this down to the fact the bearings and rings are new. There's certainly no abnormal resistance.

Next job is to rebuild the cylinder head and have a big clean up of everything.

It's going slowly, but I'll get there in the end

How is the little end bearing lubricated?

[aaronjb]

Here, James, I had a thought..

Have you thought about doing YouTube videos of your work on cars - instructional style? (I thought of this as I watch a series on rebuilding a Ford FE by a guy in the US) Unlikely to make you a millionaire, but might add to the therapeutic value? It'll make you work more slowly or stretch things out, and add in chunks of time editing videos sat down..

Personally I quite like watching people do work on the BoobTube, and so do a lot of others..

[edit] Y'know. Once the snow clears

[STEMO]

I like watching people do work, full stop. 

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Here, James, I had a thought..

Have you thought about doing YouTube videos of your work on cars - instructional style? (I thought of this as I watch a series on rebuilding a Ford FE by a guy in the US) Unlikely to make you a millionaire, but might add to the therapeutic value? It'll make you work more slowly or stretch things out, and add in chunks of time editing videos sat down..

Personally I quite like watching people do work on the BoobTube, and so do a lot of others..

[edit] Y'know. Once the snow clears

Good idea.

It wouldn't work for STMO though. The scouse accent would make people think he has just stolen the car and is breaking it for bits.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I like watching people do work, full stop. 

Altogether now "You,ll neeeeever work, again".

[terry paget]

The wrist pins were a nightmare. Total nightmare. Destroyed the old pistons removing them.

On refitting, got the con rod silly hot with a blowtorch, and had a 2 second window to get them in right

Forgive my earlier silly question. I had not been paying attention. Now I understand how you fitted the wrist (gudgeon?) pins in the connecting rod ends, I presume the wrist pins turn in the piston without lubrication.

[Andy B]

The wrist pins were a nightmare. Total nightmare. Destroyed the old pistons removing them.

On refitting, got the con rod silly hot with a blowtorch, and had a 2 second window to get them in right

Forgive my earlier silly question. I had not been paying attention. Now I understand how you fitted the wrist (wrist?) pins in the connecting rod ends, I presume the wrist pins turn in the piston without lubrication.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/wrist_pin  But the gudge0n pin was a press fit into the piston on the few times I've ever been that involved in an engine.

P.S. ..... let me guess who has added a filter ..... can we have a forum in English & not American 

[terry paget]

The wrist pins were a nightmare. Total nightmare. Destroyed the old pistons removing them.

On refitting, got the con rod silly hot with a blowtorch, and had a 2 second window to get them in right

Forgive my earlier silly question. I had not been paying attention. Now I understand how you fitted the wrist (wrist?) pins in the connecting rod ends, I presume the wrist pins turn in the piston without lubrication.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/wrist_pin  But the gudge0n pin was a press fit into the piston on the few times I've ever been that involved in an engine.

P.S. ..... let me guess who has added a filter ..... can we have a forum in English & not American 

Thank you. That makes more sense. Still not quite clear how James assembled the gudgeon pin and its bearing within the piston and in the hot con rod little end, all in his 2 second window.

[aaronjb]

IIRC on this engine the gudgeon pin is a press fit into the conrod but floats in the piston; lubrication is most likely either via 'splash' or (if it's really fancy, which I doubt!) oiling jets that fire upward into the piston crown.

So your 2-second fitment window means getting the pin slipped through the piston and the conrod with the conrod roughly central before the conrod has chance to essentially glue itself to the pin, which would be bad if the pin was sticking half out of the piston skirt.

(Other designs would be 'fully floating' where the conrod has bearing clearance to the pin and the pin has clearance to the piston, with the pin retained in the piston by spiral clips, circlips or snap-rings, or where the rod floats on the pin but the pin is a press fit in the piston)

[terry paget]

IIRC on this engine the wrist pin is a press fit into the conrod but floats in the piston; lubrication is most likely either via 'splash' or (if it's really fancy, which I doubt!) oiling jets that fire upward into the piston crown.

So your 2-second fitment window means getting the pin slipped through the piston and the conrod with the conrod roughly central before the conrod has chance to essentially glue itself to the pin, which would be bad if the pin was sticking half out of the piston skirt.

(Other designs would be 'fully floating' where the conrod has bearing clearance to the pin and the pin has clearance to the piston, with the pin retained in the piston by spiral clips, circlips or snap-rings, or where the rod floats on the pin but the pin is a press fit in the piston)

Thanks.
I used to believe that drillings in the con rod allowed pumped oil to reach the little end, but James' pictures scotched that belief.