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[Andy H]

Anyone think the missing bit off the blade is where the whistle's coming from?

Probably
It is what knackered turbos do (whistle). I thought it was more to do with the blades scraping around inside the casing than any fancy aerodynamics though 

[X30XE]

On a serious note, I am considering taking the head off. Everything is very badly coked up, I think a de-coke, and a relap of the valves, and a new set of chains and guides, would go a long way for this car

Interestingly, it looks like you can replace the two timing chain tensioners without having to actually remove the outer timing cover, as there are access holes to put the tools in, etc, and the guides come out from the top. Seems like a bodge to me though, as you can't get the chain out this way, and, If replacing some parts, , I'd replace all.

That said, and I know you can't tell something strength by looking, but the chain and guides all look and feel fine.

Only timing chain's I've done from memory are 1.2 Corsa and 1.2 Fabia, of 2003 era!

If you're going to get ya know... anal... about it (and it seems you are  )... you might want to drop the sump and check the the oil pump chain is tight.  My 740 top chains were relatively tight (despite afor mentioned plastic guides emmigrating to the sump), however the oil pump chain had an inch of play side to side.  I doubt it could have ever skipped a tooth/fallen off, but it must have been rattly as all frig.

[JamesV6CDX]

Currently on hold awaiting arrival of the timing setting / locking kit

Need to also give my neck chance to recover. *

*I didn't overdo it. I passed out in an awkward position on the sofa after rolling in pissed

Definitely going to do a top-end decoke. Can't decide whether to change the chains or not.

I'm not sure I can justify the several hundreds in bits for items which are meant to be lifetime components and appear fine.

I'd also have to either pull the engine out, or drop the subframe to do the job.

Cylinder head has to come off to change chains, looking at workshop manuals

I can get a helper (which I will need to cope with lifting the head on and off and torquing the bolts) so I have to now factor my physical (loss of) ability

[X30XE]

Currently on hold awaiting arrival of the timing setting / locking kit

Need to also give my neck chance to recover. *

*I didn't overdo it. I passed out in an awkward position on the sofa after rolling in pissed

Definitely going to do a top-end decoke. Can't decide whether to change the chains or not.

I'm not sure I can justify the several hundreds in bits for items which are meant to be lifetime components and appear fine.

I'd also have to either pull the engine out, or drop the subframe to do the job.

Cylinder head has to come off to change chains, looking at workshop manuals

I can get a helper (which I will need to cope with lifting the head on and off and torquing the bolts) so I have to now factor my physical (loss of) ability

In the words of john mcenroe...  you cannot be serious?! 

[Doctor Gollum]

Radiator out, two bolts, and you can almost stand at the front of the engine... Access should be fine unless the anti roll bar fouls the bottom pulley

[JamesV6CDX]

Radiator out, two bolts, and you can almost stand at the front of the engine... Access should be fine unless the anti roll bar fouls the bottom pulley

That is exactly what I thought, by looking at it!

The manuals all bang on about the need to remove the sump, though, which doesn't clear unless engine lifted quite a bit / subframe dropped 

[JamesV6CDX]

Aside of more basic jobs such as swirl flaps, etc, there doesn't seem to be a great amount of people undertaking major DIY on these engines, most of the posts on the forums are from folk asking about what are the best garages to use, etc.

I felt reasonably confident working on it, but I hope I wasn't overestimating my abilities, and that I haven't bitten off more than I can chew 

[X30XE]

Aside of more basic jobs such as swirl flaps, etc, there doesn't seem to be a great amount of people undertaking major DIY on these engines, most of the posts on the forums are from folk asking about what are the best garages to use, etc.

I felt reasonably confident working on it, but I hope I wasn't overestimating my abilities, and that I haven't bitten off more than I can chew 

I hope you have a good memory for putting it back together. Lord only knows how many spare parts I'm gonna have from the 740 when it finally gets reassembled after 6 months in bits 

[Webby the Bear]

James great to see you back in the swing of things after what happened  most people wouldn't undertake jobs like this at all....let alone doing it injured 

You've gone a lot further in to bimmer engine work than I have. Though I have replaced a turbo on one. That stupid little heat shield below the air box just would not clip back in for me  I can't remember if it was the bimmer turbo or summat else but I remember one being a bitch to line up with the holes and getting the gasket to sit in right.   

Clutches are easy on these though 

[Doctor Gollum]

Radiator out, two bolts, and you can almost stand at the front of the engine... Access should be fine unless the anti roll bar fouls the bottom pulley

That is exactly what I thought, by looking at it!

The manuals all bang on about the need to remove the sump, though, which doesn't clear unless engine lifted quite a bit / subframe dropped 

I am at this point with mine... sump gasket needs renewing. In your case, I would pull and refit the head (if you're still doing that), then support the engine whilst dropping the subframe for clearance. No point actually pulling the engine, as that would involve dropping the exhaust and gearbox... unless you really want to If you need the sump off for chain access, then so be it

If, however, they're saying sump off in order to remove the oil pump, then I suggest this...

Undo and remove the front six/eight sump bolts, then remove the oil pump/front cover, same as you can on an Omega

[JamesV6CDX]

Radiator out, two bolts, and you can almost stand at the front of the engine... Access should be fine unless the anti roll bar fouls the bottom pulley

That is exactly what I thought, by looking at it!

The manuals all bang on about the need to remove the sump, though, which doesn't clear unless engine lifted quite a bit / subframe dropped 

I am at this point with mine... sump gasket needs renewing. In your case, I would pull and refit the head (if you're still doing that), then support the engine whilst dropping the subframe for clearance. No point actually pulling the engine, as that would involve dropping the exhaust and gearbox... unless you really want to If you need the sump off for chain access, then so be it

If, however, they're saying sump off in order to remove the oil pump, then I suggest this...

Undo and remove the front six/eight sump bolts, then remove the oil pump/front cover, same as you can on an Omega

Al, we have clearly been thinking along the same lines!

Looking at forums, the box can come out attached to the engine, so it's just prop / etc to come off, without the need to separate the tranny.

I guess I'll cross the bridges as I come to them. I'm wondering if going to these lengths just to replace a chain that may not need replacing, and cost £400, is actually a pointless exercise....

[Doctor Gollum]

At least the slam panel comes away, making light work of actually getting the engine out relatively speaking...

[Nick W]

You're mad turning a turbo change(which, even on something as horrible to work on as a BMW, is basically a service job on an old diesel) into a costly engine out strip-down. Bear in mind that the straight sixes are huge and heavy things to deal with when not in a car.


Bung a turbo on it, and drive the thing. Or put the money and time into a better one.

[JamesV6CDX]

You're mad turning a turbo change(which, even on something as horrible to work on as a BMW, is basically a service job on an old diesel) into a costly engine out strip-down. Bear in mind that the straight sixes are huge and heavy things to deal with when not in a car.


Bung a turbo on it, and drive the thing. Or put the money and time into a better one.

As per the opening post... it's largely a learning experience for me to broaden my skills and confidence. What better way to practice than on old car which I own, owes me nothing, with nothing to lose

It's for those reasons, and my enjoyment, as opposed to need

[X30XE]

You're mad turning a turbo change(which, even on something as horrible to work on as a BMW, is basically a service job on an old diesel) into a costly engine out strip-down. Bear in mind that the straight sixes are huge and heavy things to deal with when not in a car.


Bung a turbo on it, and drive the thing. Or put the money and time into a better one.

Where are you going to find a better one these days? They're 17yrs old... they'll all be the same or made into bean cans by now