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Messages - ReLLaXX

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1
General Car Chat / Re: E39 530d... Advice?
« on: 19 July 2017, 18:35:21 »
A few years ago I drove a 530D manual with over 630.000 km on the clock. De-cat but just a decent amount of smoke out of the tailpipe. My 2 cents say that there is something wrong with it.

Turbo/wastegate/injectors/temp sensor/MAF?

Sound like it runs rich, a lack of boost or one of the mentioned sensors beeing defective would explain it but you should definetely feel a difference in the way it pulls compared with a good one. The 3.0 D is a locomotive engine, when it runs well... It RUNS.

2
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: radio
« on: 19 July 2017, 14:44:49 »
Maybe try to turn ignition on with the HU fuse removed and then plug the fuse to power it? Out of ideas here. I still think you may have a defective volume/on/off button.

3
I had a simillar problem after I bought the car, also a 2.2 DTi. In the first days I tried to convince myself that its just a underpowered heavy car but still, way to slow most of the times. My car was fine (ish) until 3k on accelerations but after that feeling like a NA diesel, and over 4k was just noise. And this while leaving of the line at the limit of my comfort (I was just a litle bit faster than the 1.4 Logan taxis).

Also after a cold start the engine needed about 5 min to run smooth, without hesitations.

All vacuum lines ok, intake in a decent shape (will need cleaning and also the EGR, soon).

And then, one day, I saw a CEL after an atempt to overtake from aprox. 130 kph. In my case those are the conclusions:

A second hand (but very good condition) MAF solved 90% of the problem. Its no longer the slowest car I've ever owned. In fact, in the city, from 0 to 80 kph is more than I need. On the highway 130 to 180 kph its no racecar but its constant.

What I still have to do:

Change the turbo - works great but some oil is getting by into the intake and that also kills the MAF over time.

Clean intake and EGR. Its a diesel so... Yeah... There is no chance to keep it clean for a long time.

Check the catalytic converters. I've looked at a set from a 300.000 km 2.2 DTi Omega and they are at least 70% blocked. So my 220.000 km cant be that good.

So, in a nutshell, I would sugest trying a good MAF (!! Bosch only, trust me, you are wasting your time and money with anything else) and checking the state of the cats. Both of them but especially the one after the turbo.

The VP44 pumps throw codes when anything wrong so I would keep this at the bottom of my list. But still... On the list.

PS: I know about a case where a 2.2 DTi was sucking in a intercooler hose (keep in mind that this is actually a heavy restriction on air intake and can actually cause all the simptoms you have). The cause was a stuck or defective wastegate controller. I cant remember if it was the actual actuator (on the turbo) or the "coin" inside the turbo hot side beeing stuck.

4
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: radio
« on: 12 July 2017, 23:41:49 »
hi, understood, the 2.2 sold to dealer. I note ronomega post, 9/11/2013 had the same problem. SAFE, and unable to enter any info. this is the problem I have after discharged battery. no other info, just stuck on safe. it simply will not accept any instruction.I just wondered, if any one else had any info to add. I have entered code on previous occasion, with no trouble. have a nice day.   :)

Does your volume knob (the one you supose to push before even entering the code) still works ok? On my HU that button only works when pushed up and on the right side. If someone would try to enter the code without knowing this they would have the same problem you have. No reaction from the HU.

Try turning off and on the unit first to see if you get a correct reaction from that knob. Because you have to hold it for a few seconds, if it has a even slightly bad contact I dont think it will work.

5
Omega General Help / Re: In search of a boot lid spoiler
« on: 10 July 2017, 19:27:38 »
Sorry to revive this, but I am still searching for one... Maybe someone found one and its for sale.  :y

6
also to add if you have volts out to fan but fan not working. but fan works on external power change the power plug on the wire as this can wear out, only has tiny thine connections on the plug and they can weaken on over heat and warp out of position and no contact with the fan pins.

Thank you very much!

I looked everywhere, there is no 2 stage resistor. Under the battery try I can only find the AC lines and 2 white-gray connectors, 6 pins each, and the ground point. Even more, I can trace the fan wires directly into the relay box. It is clear that there is a two step system but its possible that its done only by the radiator temp sensor and some relays. Still, i get aprox. 0.6V less on the fan connector than I have measured on the battery. I think this may be a faulty ground. Will have to check.

I just looked closely at the fan connector (car side) and the contacts seem pretty bad. I will change the connector and see if it works. But I did try to jump it with a 2.5 mm copper wire between both fan connectors and didnt work. Who knows, maybe I had a bad contact.

1 thing is almost sure, if my fan motor has 2 steps only one is working. With direct power on the midle pin nothing hapends. I will try to bypass that connector also and see how it goes. I still cant understand why do I get the same voltage but on dfferent pins at different temps. I have the spare parts car and will beggin complex surgery on that one tomorrow to understand exactly how it works.

I have been arround wires and current for too many years, I think I am starting to hate it. :)

Will get back after I experiment with this.

Again, thank you!

7
the wires can break on the rubber boot on the boot. rear boot solenoid (lock) is earthed to the boot but has a link earth through the rubber boot.

Allready checked, wires are ok. Will change the central locking module and see how it goes.

No ideea on the radiator fan? Anybody?

8
1. This. They aren't compatible.

2. Fit a saloon module :y

This is what I get for having an Estate as a spare parts car when in fact I own a saloon. Thank you.  :y

One down, one to go! :)

9
And one more, so I wont open another thread.

When I got the car non of the central locking worked. 0 reaction from key fob or doors. I swaped the central locking module from a Estate (and the key remote) and doors are working normal but not the booth. Wont open no matter what. Tested at the actuator, receiving no power when I push the button on the dash (modified wiring as seen on OOF, it has to work anytime but still I did hold it for 5 sec with ignition off). Also, no power on the wires before they exit from the rear fender (I suspected a broken wire in the loom).

1) Is it possible that the Estate central locking module cant controle the actuator in the trunk?

2) Is there anything else I can try?

Thank you!


10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Another radiator fan topic
« on: 26 June 2017, 19:32:24 »
I've searched the forum for 3 days before posting so I am positive this is a new one.

Skiping the radiator fan test, the 2.2 dti has a different layout in the relay box or I can't identify the test connector, one or the other.

So, measuring at the fan connector (car side) I have negative and 13.2V on both power wires, never in the same time. Exterior power wire on connector has power until 95 degrees (C), midle over 95. So we have power at the connector. Testing the fan directly with battery power shows that only one pin reacts to power, and that is the outside pin. With power on the midle (+) pin and negative pin the fan has no reaction. Again, on the outside pin it does go full power while connected to the battery.

So, power on the connector, at least one stage of the fan working. Plug in the connector, nothing happends, at any temperature. The only fan kicking in over 95 C is the AC one in the front.

Changed all the relays with ones from a working car. Measured everything that came to my mind. Right now I am out of ideeas.

So. What do I do next?

11
Thank you guys for all the appreciations. The car will get better but right now it needs to do some miles.

Just had a 200 miles trip yesterday, 100 one way with a 3300 feet elevation difference (plus for the first 100 miles and then, going back). Managed to get arround 36 mpg with two persons and some luggage, with speeds between 45 and 70 mph (speed limits, no highway). Not bad for a heavy underpowered blue wale.  ;D Ps: 3700 lbs and 120 HP.  ???

I managged to get about 1900 miles on the clock since it was out of the shop (most of them in this city with a really congested traffic), getting a total of aprox 28 mpg (80% city,  20% B roads with moderate traffic). Shifting around 3000 rpm or over is normal if you dont want to fall asleep at the helm.  :)

I will soon have to write my own review for this car. Its not perfect but it has some strong points that should not be ignored, especially in this price range.  :y


12
Good pics mate, :y on a side note what is Ceausescus palace used for now?

Well, it never was Ceausescu's palace. What alot of people dont know is the fact that we owned nothing on his name, everything he had or used was owned by the State. That building was allways a government building. Now it is the Palace of the Parliement. That is: some guys that own on their names alot more than Ceausescu ever did.

13
If only I had a good camera. The light and colours were great. My phone camera, not really.










14


Back on the road! Still needs a few things done and after that, maybe some decent photos. Came out really good, all the work payed off in the end.  :y


15
Omega General Help / Re: Starting problems
« on: 02 June 2017, 07:10:26 »
Maybe a faulty fuel pressure regulator, causing it to loose rail fuel pressure over night? Old spark plugs? This starting problem usually has something to do with spark or fuel. Its hard to be more specific than this.

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