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Messages - johnnydog

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Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Z157 bonnet
« on: Today at 01:10:24 »
I have one that is off the car, and has been dry stored in my garage since removal. It is in excellent condition apart from a minor scratch, but no rust or dents. I haven't looked at it recently but if it's possibly what you want, PM me and I will check it, and if you want send you a photo of it.
I am in Burnley so not that far from you.

PM sent.

The coolant used should be red. Original Vauxhall coolant is red and should be mixed 50/50.

General Car Chat / Re: How Roomy is a Superb
« on: 13 July 2018, 16:41:28 »
On a recent visit to the Czech Republic, we got picked up at the airport by taxi in a Skoda Superb. It appeared to be a high spec one with wood (plastic wood really) cappings and leather, but I was really impressed with the quality of the interior, and the front and rear leg room. Although a passenger, the quality of the drive appeared to be excellent. Decent luggage space too. Not heard many bad reports about the modern bigger Skodas to be honest.

Personally, unless you have used a machine polisher before and are relatively experienced with one, I would do the compounding by hand especially with new paint. It is so easy to either burn the paint or go through to the base coat (colour) or the primer on the raised areas, or edges.
Don't forget the paint will still be relatively soft, and a machine polisher can be quite aggressive if used incorrectly. It is easier to control your hand than a machine!
There are different machine polishers - the type with two handles which in my opinion aren't really suited to smaller areas of body panels, or the type which look like an angle grinder. You need to use the correct grade of foam pad depending on what you are polishing, but the polisher needs to have a variable speed control as the speed should be quite low so that the paint doesn't get burnt!
I would suggest practising using the machine polisher on an old car or old body panel (or someone else's car :D!!) to get used to it before doing your fresh new paint!

Just another point, before you start with your wet and dry paper, leave ithe paper to soak for a while in the water to soften. Doing this reduces the risk of the corners digging into thr new paint whilst flatting, which will then need more serious remedies.

If you think there are contaminants in the final coat of lacquer, you can flat the laquer down gently with no problems as long as you don't go through to the colour coat, and then reapply a few more light coats, or the marks may come out with flatting, depending how big or deep they are. You could try rubbing the 1500 grit on something like a wet stone or something like a smooth stone from the garden to just take the grit down a bit, or you could use it in conjunction with a bar of household soap. Wipe the wet /dry paper on the bar of soap before you put it to the fresh paint, but go gently preferably with a block on the flat areas, or as best as you can keep your hand as flat as possible. Whilst the paint is still relatively fresh, if you are not careful, because your fingers aren't a flat area, where the pressure is greater under your fingertips, then this area will remove more laquer and leave lines if you go at it too harshly.
Alternatively because it is still quite fresh, use a finer cutting compound, and keep the cloth in a pad shape as flat as possible. But whatever, because it won't have hardened fully, go gently and you should be ok.
Sunday is a good few days off yet, so I would say it should be reasonably hard to compound it reasonably well in time for you going away, or you could always leave the compounding until you get back by which time it should be hard enough to go at it more vigorously! I would leave putting any polish on it until you come back, but keep your eye on it for any bird crap falling on it which will eat into soft fresh paint quickly. I would also avoid parking it it under any trees if at all possible too because of the tree sap.
I'm sure it will look fine when it all gets assembled!

How many coats of laquer have you been able to apply? The first coat is usually just a very light coat, the second is a wetter coat, the third coat a little thinner but again a wet coat. If you have been able to apply three, as long as it is left for a few days to harden, you shouldn't need to put any more lacquer on. Just don't go too heavily when compounding it, or use too coarse a compound unless you can leave it for around a week before doing it. If you are feeling really brave, you could flat it off gently with 2000 grit wet / dry before compounding it - this will get rid of any orange peel you may have and leave you with a beautiful deep shine when you have finished. Don't forget a decent smooth wax polish to protect the new paint afterwards.

Omega General Help / Re: Brake bleed screws
« on: 08 July 2018, 21:16:57 »
I believe the VX part numbers for the bleed screws on the later calipers are as follows -

90369391 Front
90297538 Rear

I couldn't say whether they are still available individually from VX. From experience, if a dealer states they are NLS, they may not have have checked stock outside the UK, which means pressing a few more keys on the computer, but some dealers find this 'too hard to do'. It is always worth asking if they have checked stock outside the UK.

It needs to be virtually dry to the touch, but not fully dried or hard. In these sort of temperatures 10 minutes should be fine - when the temperatures are more like 'normal', you can wait 15 minutes or so. Laquer is harder to judge the quantity you have applied in one coat, but thin coats are best so that the laquer is just flowing. It sometimes helps if you hold a small inspection light at angle to get the reflection in the paint/ laquer which can help show how the paint / laquer is flowing. Cordless is best so you are not thinking about the cord whilst concentrating on the finish!
Don't forget that with the initial sweep as the paint is dispelled it will look as if there isn't enough paint, but within seconds if the quantity is correct it will flow into itself leaving a good finish. It's at this point before it has 'flowed' that the temptation to apply a little too much paint or laquer can result in a poorer finish or runs. Less is better than too much. You can always apply an extra coat, but properly getting rid of heavy runs is harder work which sometime necessitates going back to the initial stages.
There is no need to flat the base coat at all as this will ruin the metallic finish, and no need to use a panel wipe as theoretically there will no contamination on the surface.

General Car Chat / Re: Part number or at least a name
« on: 08 July 2018, 18:02:52 »
When I did some paintwork on the wheelarch on an estate a good few years ago, I removed the black strip by warming it up gently with a hot air gun, and carefully peeling it off. When the job was done, I reattached it using automotive spray adhesive, generally for car carpets and trim, but it worked a treat and it wasn't obvious it had been removed and reapplied. It is reasonably well protected from external elements, and it was still looking good when I subsequently sold the car.

Make sure your final Base Coat (Car Colour) is nice and dry (Hard) before applying Clear Coat / Lacquer.

If you let the base coat get too hard, then the laquer coat has nothing to key to. It's like spraying a colour onto a surface without abrading it slightly - it needs the surface to below to key to. As you can't go over the base coat of a metallic with wet and dry or a scotchbrite pad prior to laquering because the abrading will affect the effect of the 'metallic finish', the laquer needs to be applied to the base coat relatively shortly afterwards. Leave it long enough for the solvents to evaporate, and it's on its way to going off, but before it has gone 'hard', otherwise the laquer will lift or peel in time as it hasn't been able to adhere to the surface below.

Omega General Help / Re: Rattle can spraying
« on: 07 July 2018, 11:51:21 »
I have sprayed full panels previously with aerosols with good results, both solid colours and metallics. As said preparation is the key - what looks / feels smooth, is still likely to show minor imperfections when the colour goes on, with the paint sinking between the original and the new, or at the edge of any filler. Primer filler can be flatted back to remove any slight imperfections before applying the colour.
Allowing sufficient time between coats for the solvent to evaporate is important, otherwise 'trapped' solvent will result in disastrous results when it dries.
When you are satisfied with your primer coat, just apply a very very light dust coat of colour (any colour but the same type of paint(!), but darker the better) and let it dry (should be quite quickly). This will highlight any imperfections, and at this point they will be easy to rectify with wet / dry or if particularly noticeable with some stopper. Re apply a coat of primer if stopper is used, and let it dry, and then re apply a dust coat. When the surface looks good, the apply the colour, remembering that with metallics, it is just that, a colour, with the laquer giving the depth of shine.
You need to apply the paint in thin coats first, allowing 10 mins between coats for the solvent to evaporate and then a wet coat so that it runs into itself, which initially looks wet, but applying too much will cause runs, especially where the aerosol movement momentarily pauses.... The final coat should be a relative thin coat, but sufficient for it to look slightly wet. If the paint requires a laquer, it should be applied after your final colour coat has started to go off, probably 15 mins, and apply in light coats remembering that when it is polished, you are removing a thin layer. If you cut through the laquer when polishing, it has be reapplied, and sometimes you have to go back to the colour stage.
Removal of as much trim as you can is beneficial, as masking leaves a raw edge which can flake or lift over time. Soft edge foam masking tape is better, as the edge of paint is gradual / feathered and is easier to cut back and loose.
Sounds difficult but practise makes perfect as they say.
It is too hot to spray aerosols really at the moment, as the paint will start to dry as soon as leaves the nozzle, and can result in a 'gritty' finish. Equally, damp in the air on a cold or wet day, will not result in a good finish, and in the worst cases can cause blooming of the finish.
But good finishes can be achieved with aerosols, but it can't be rushed. If you get a foreign body in your refreshly applied paint, don't be tempted to try and remove it immediately - it can be dealt with when it has gone off, but it's annoying if the small midge doesn't give up and creates small circles in the paint before it finally gives up!
Good luck!

Omega General Help / Re: Rear jacking and axle stand points
« on: 24 June 2018, 02:08:02 »
With a bit of careful positioning, you can place an axle stand under the metal strap / surround of the rear diff mountings. They need to be reasonably extended though. I would always have a secondary support elsewhere, even if it is just the wheels themselves under the car on the 'chassis rails'. Don't under any circumstances place the axle stands or a jack under the diff itself as it will destroy the mountings because of the upwards force.

But then you are putting yourself unnecessarily at risk as you position the axle stands. :o :o

As I stated, there is no reason why you cannot position the axle stands beside a carefully positioned trolley jack on the main jacking point plate. ;)

I have done that ever since my first Omega donkeys of years ago.

Without sounding like 'teaching your Granny to suck eggs', any Omega owner who intends to do their own servicing and maintenance should, in my opinion, have two full size 3 ton trolley jacks at their disposal. The weight of an Omega exceeds many other vehicles, and having two jacks makes many jobs so much easier as the car is equally positioned / balanced when up in the air. Axle stands should also be used as a further precaution of course.
The cost of relatively decent trolley jacks these days is a minimal outlay when your own safety is at risk juggling between just one jack and axle stands.
A fellow club member in a classic car club lost his life a good number of years ago when the vehicle he was working came down on him, crushing his chest and trapping him. Sadly his wife found him but it was too late. A sad lesson to be learnt unfortunately.

Omega General Help / Re: Rear jacking and axle stand points
« on: 21 June 2018, 14:17:49 »
With a bit of careful positioning, you can place an axle stand under the metal strap / surround of the rear diff mountings. They need to be reasonably extended though. I would always have a secondary support elsewhere, even if it is just the wheels themselves under the car on the 'chassis rails'. Don't under any circumstances place the axle stands or a jack under the diff itself as it will destroy the mountings because of the upwards force.

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