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Author Topic: surface rust  (Read 3336 times)

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ffcgary1

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surface rust
« on: 20 March 2016, 23:21:35 »

Hi all, a lass i know has just bought a second hand ford maverick on a 51 plate and a real minter it is too, 32,000 gen miles, full history, the question i have is that the rear lower arms are covered in a surface rust from where i guess it has been sitting about not being used much. is there a SPRAY ON RUST TREATMENTthat will kill and coat the surfaces with a long lasting protection or will a coat of wax oil do the same thing, there is no signs of any holes just this surface coating on the underside.
I dont fancy wire brushing the whole car to do it if there is an easy fix.
Gary.
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ffcgary1

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #1 on: 21 March 2016, 12:43:46 »

Someone must have the knowledge ???
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #2 on: 21 March 2016, 12:52:05 »

Have a look at the Bilt Hamber Dynax UB
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2boxerdogs

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #3 on: 21 March 2016, 13:03:50 »

Have a look at the Rustbuster website ,highly recommended by lots of car clubs/mags they will supply & advise, just had my 4x4 treated by them excellent & very knowledgeable.
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johnnydog

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #4 on: 22 March 2016, 16:22:45 »

Dinitrol make a rust convertor in a aerosol spray can, product code RC900, and it's readily available at car shows, EBay or from places such as Frost Restorations in Rochdale, who do mail order.
Dinitrol is a good product. Used them for years with good results.
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ted_one

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #5 on: 22 March 2016, 17:31:44 »

I had planned to take all three cars up to Rustbuster over the summer months, and as Tilbo is happy with their service,then that makes the case for doing it that much stronger. Diy treatment is OK to a point,but it's a messy old job and you have to have an attention to detail that I unfortunately I don't possess ::)
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baggedestate

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #6 on: 22 March 2016, 18:09:21 »

dinitrol is good as said above
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ted_one

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #7 on: 22 March 2016, 19:13:48 »

Think Dinitrol is one of the products that Rustbuster uses,also I think they sell it as well :y
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baggers

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #8 on: 22 March 2016, 19:31:13 »

A few late Fords I've worked on have heavy rust on the suspension parts and nut & bolts seized/snapping.  Not the metal it used to be.
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2boxerdogs

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #9 on: 22 March 2016, 20:03:31 »

I had planned to take all three cars up to Rustbuster over the summer months, and as Tilbo is happy with their service,then that makes the case for doing it that much stronger. Diy treatment is OK to a point,but it's a messy old job and you have to have an attention to detail that I unfortunately I don't possess ::)
.     





They are excellent Nitro, my 4x4 was filthy it was steam cleaned dried wire brushed vacuumed all around underneath, treated  & coated all arch liners and underbody panels removed it took around 7 hours & at times 3 people were working on it.They are booked several months ahead, after observing the whole process there is no way you could do as good a job yourself.
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ted_one

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #10 on: 22 March 2016, 20:29:00 »

Agree,when I spoke to them the were busy then,and I understand that the level I was thinking about will take two days and will include an overnight hotel stay,so this one's going to be a bit of a 'plan' :-\ Although the option is to hire a car and drive home and come back up on day two...... :-\ Nah!! will take option one and have an early partake of the local Lincolnshire falling down water  :D ;)
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johnnydog

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #11 on: 22 March 2016, 20:38:52 »

The trouble with these rust proofing / preventative firms is, in my experience, that they don't know your car as well as you do. By that, I mean that you know all the areas on the Omega that are prone to corrosion, and unless you are breathing down their neck whilst they are doing the job, can you be sure that all the likely areas have been treated?
My opinion with the Omega is that that most areas where corrosion starts so as to cause a problem is generally from within, rather externally, and knowing where to start is a job for a nice sunny day. If you search rusty wheel arches for example, you will find info I posted how best to tackle this one aspect of rust prevention.
It reminds me of the hype back in the 70's and 80's about the likes of Ziebart, and how it prevented internal corrosion. The number of cars I used to see several years on with the telltale yellow plugs, yet the cars were rotten as a pear purely because the treatment hadn't been applied in the correct rust prone areas....
If I were you, I'd do it myself - plenty of places will steam clean the car underneath first, and it's got to dry throughly afterwards, but then it's worth getting grubby for and at least you would know it had been done properly...
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2boxerdogs

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #12 on: 22 March 2016, 20:58:59 »

The trouble with these rust proofing / preventative firms is, in my experience, that they don't know your car as well as you do. By that, I mean that you know all the areas on the Omega that are prone to corrosion, and unless you are breathing down their neck whilst they are doing the job, can you be sure that all the likely areas have been treated?
My opinion with the Omega is that that most areas where corrosion starts so as to cause a problem is generally from within, rather externally, and knowing where to start is a job for a nice sunny day. If you search rusty wheel arches for example, you will find info I posted how best to tackle this one aspect of rust prevention.
It reminds me of the hype back in the 70's and 80's about the likes of Ziebart, and how it prevented internal corrosion. The number of cars I used to see several years on with the telltale yellow plugs, yet the cars were rotten as a pear purely because the treatment hadn't been applied in the correct rust prone areas....
If I were you, I'd do it myself - plenty of places will steam clean the car underneath first, and it's got to dry throughly afterwards, but then it's worth getting grubby for and at least you would know it had been done properly...
.   



I'm sorry totally disagree with your comments I did stay and watch the whole process which the company encourages you to do if possible, the equipment is specialised the car is on a ramp, you can buy a kit for around £160.00 from them but I defy anyone to do a professional job themselves, they are highly thought of in classic car circles, the work on my vehicle far exceeded my expectations.
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johnnydog

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #13 on: 22 March 2016, 22:14:25 »

I'm not saying that their work isn't upto a high standard, but if you are happy with the work they do, then that is all that matters. If they are into classic car rust prevention, then they should know what they are doing. I guess they must have done plenty of Omegas (? ;D?) to enable them to know the problem areas......although seriously I wouldn't have thought many Omega owners in the past wouldn't have even considered having this done. I would say this treatment is far more necessary on a classic car from the true classic car era, as the rust proofing methods then were poor, and not upto the factory applied sealants applied from the past 15 - 20 years. Most cars from the pre 1980's had no underseal etc applied at the factory, and they were delivered untreated. The customer then paid for underbody protection which was applied at the dealership before the customer took possession of the car. And they still rusted for fun......
As we all know, applying underbody protection to an already rusty area, if not correctly treated causes more problems than you started out with.
Incidentally, I do know someone who had a classic Triumph treated by this company and he does seem very happy with the job, but this was on a recently totally restored car which had shiney new panels underneath.
I'm sure the job will be good; just my thoughts that's all....
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ted_one

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Re: surface rust
« Reply #14 on: 22 March 2016, 23:53:59 »

They also do a yearly check on their work for a one off fee :-\ still think I'm going for it as my red MV6 is nigh on rust free,and will certainly extend it's life as it's not high on miles and only does around three thousand miles a year now,same with the white MV6 and although only eighty thousand on the clock,it had a bit of a hard life chasing scrotes up and down the motorway,so a bit twitchy as to any hidden nasties when they start pulling it around. Blue Elite has done 230 thousand and I'm sure there's going to be issues there,but this company does rust repairs as part of the service bit of course at an extra cost,But like they say, you can't take it with you so I think I'd just take the hit and get them fixed up as much as is practical and spend the Autumn of my life driving the cars that give that perverse pleasure of Omega ownership. ::) :)
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